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jonathanrussell last won the day on September 26 2016

jonathanrussell had the most liked content!

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About jonathanrussell

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    Registered User


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    Atlanta, GA
  • Location - Legacy Value (should be empty)
    Saint Petersburg, FL


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My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.
  1. This is what I used in a recent build. Kameari Valve Spring Shims Expensive but I spent a lot of time looking and could not find any alternatives for both inner and outer that I was willing to use. With respect to generic shims, seems like I never found inner that were even close. I think I found outer that were close but not close enough where I was willing to use them. If I recall, the generic shims I tried were from McMaster-Carr.
  2. I would be surprised if you don't know about these, and they are not exactly like what you are asking for, but.... MSA- Camber Adjust Bushings
  3. +1 on what @siteunseen said regarding float bowls. The first most fundamental adjustment to make is to set the floats so that they maintain the fuel level at an appropriate height in the nozzles. There are multiple techniques that have been written about and documented on this site, in fsms, and in books, to set the floats. The ZTherapy SU carb tuning video is a pretty good place to start. There are other techniques though that, in my opinion get you to a place where you have even more accurately adjusted floats: namely setting the floats so that the fuel level hits the top of the fuel nozzles when the mixture adjuster is 10 turns down (involves removing the domes, pistons, so you can see the fuel at the top of the nozzle). Point is, I would suggest investing time into reading and learning how these carbs work if you haven't already. When your floats are adjusted correctly, you end up in the ideal situation where you can turn the mixture screws down between 2 and 2.5 turns and be very close. In addition, at this position you have adjustment range where you can turn down farther and be more rich or turn up higher and be more lean. Once the floats are adjusted, everything else gets easier in my opinion. Note that I didn't say that getting the floats really well adjusted is easy. I can do it now but it took me a long time to really figure out a way that gets it right. Once your floats are adjusted, I find that using two colortunes, one for each side, helps....along with the technique well documented where you lift each piston slightly and note what happens to idle. Also, as Site said, having something that shows you the rpms right in the engine compartment is really helpful. -
  4. This is a total guess without really measuring and diagnosing the efi system but the sound is very similar to what I heard in my 280 when the airflow meter flap was stuck open....due to being bent....and bent due to a previous backfire.
  5. I would like to buy also.
  6. @madkaw- I agree regarding drilling new holes and had thoughts of doing the same but managed to break one of my long lid ears. They are cast and very brittle. @siteunseen I want to clarify my post above based on morning memory rather than what I was remembering late last night. I tried two things with the long ear lid. Z Therapy ships (at least as of a year or so ago) their 3 screw carbs with long ears but short needle valves. When I try to adjust using this configuration, the angle of the float is extreme and causes me at least to not be able to achieve the 10mm level. Not sure whether it is because the float is hitting the chamber wall or because the extreme angle causes the float to not engage with the modern (and more cheaply made) needle valves smoothly. When I look at old original needle valves vs new needle valves, the new ones move less smoothly, less precisely, have thinner needles, and just seem to always want to catch on the metal tab on the float. unless you carefully manage the angle of the tab. Alternatively, when I use the long ear lids with longer needle valves (not sourced from Z Therapy), I find that the floats start getting limited in terms of their ability to rotate because they hit the float chamber wall. My recollection is that the float chamber seems tapered a bit as you move from top to bottom. Since the longer ears push the float down a bit, the float ends up hitting the narrower portion of the chamber wall. I even tried shaving the shape of the float but was never able to achieve the 10mm level. Hope this clarifies and is helpful.
  7. @siteunseen I stopped trying to make the long ear / long needle valve float lids work in my 3 screw carbs. I use two short lids (borrowed from an extra set of carbs) so they end up working like the 4 screw carbs. I spent an enormous amount of time about two years ago really focusing on getting the floats set right. With the long ear lid, I was never able to get the float set so that the meniscus hit the top of the jet at 10 turns down. BTW, I don't pay any attention to where the fuel level sits in the bowl. For me, removing the domes and setting the levels at the jet tops (10 turns down) makes more sense and gives me more repeatable results- ie: both carbs end up adjusting in the 2-2.5 mixture screw turn range. I use a Color Tune also to help set the mixture screws. I am sure others have figured out how to make the long ear lids work but for me, it just feels like a design flaw. Essentially, with the long ear lids, I am never able to achieve the 10mm mark and the angle of the float is at such a severe angle that I believe the float is hitting the wall of the float chamber.
  8. I would be very interested in both stainless and yellow zinc kits that use JIS size heads.
  9. @grannyknot Attached snip / image is from their web site, about page.
  10. I am pretty sure Eiji at Datsun Spirit rebuilds transmissions...and at least when I visited him a few years ago he had a few in stock ready to rebuild.
  11. I followed your walmart link. It is hard to tell from the photo and I don't see it mentioned in the specs but it looks like stranded cable to me.
  12. Could you make something like this work?
  13. Thanks Jeff. Since you did not run a return line, no pics necessary, at least for me. Easy enough to visualize without the return line. Thank you.
  14. Could it be that the reaction disc in the booster has become dislodged?
  15. Jeff, I read through the past 3 pages and read where you suggest ditching the steel rail for rubber. Heat transfer from the mounts has always been my vapor lock cause theory and I have thought about going all rubber but have never tried.....mostly because I have never had vapor lock except on a 240z my dad had when I was a kid. How are you handling the fuel return line? In the original rail, fuel keeps moving to the return, at least to the extent that the engine isn't drinking it and the needle valve shuts, theoretically keeping the fuel cool if things slow down. Maybe in a race car / track car fuel never slows down so the return isn't needed? Any chance you can share a photo of how you have it plumbed? Sorry if you already covered and I missed.