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jonathanrussell last won the day on September 26 2016

jonathanrussell had the most liked content!

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About jonathanrussell

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    Registered User


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    Atlanta, GA


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My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    -Mostly stock 72 240z 4spd with less than 50k. Silver with black interior.
    -Completely stock 72 240z 4spd with 24k. Orange with black interior.
    -Completely stock 75 280z with 65k. 304 Gold with black interior.
    -Completely stock 78 280z with 60k. Original pearl black with sap and black interior.
  1. 1978 280 WIW

    My first car in 1983 was a silver 78 280z....raised white letters and everything. Loved that car.
  2. 1978 280 WIW

    Price and value are very personal things I think. For me, if I wanted a 78 280z and the car is TRULY as you describe, and you want the car, I would try to keep it off the market and come to a fair price for you and the seller. The key here is, does the condition align with the words you use in your description? Does it really have 40k miles? Lots of little signs will tell you whether it does or not, even absent of records. What is the condition of the engine compartment and undercarriage? Do you see enough evidence of cad plating to make the 40k story reasonable? Are original hoses and plug wires present? Is the interior original and in the condition it should be at 40k miles? As Site says, are the pedals worn? Is door weatherstripping still in really good shape? No doubt, all of these won't be present in any 40 year old car but some combination of them can start to tell you whether the 40k story makes sense or not. Continuing on with condition...is the car truly rust free? Look everywhere- under battery, under master cylinder, frame rails, floors, rocker panels, and hatch deck corners are all common rust areas. Because this car has molded carpet in the floors I doubt the owner will let you remove the carpet to look for floor rust. Still, look closely at the floors, floor plugs and carpet. Any evidence of prolonged moisture on the carpet? Any evidence of rust around floor plugs and seams? Has the car ever been wrecked and repaired? Go over the body thoroughly. Do panels line up? Look closely at the front engine area frame rails. Are there any ripples where the car has been hit and fixed? If the owner will let you, remove the rear carpet and side plastic panels. This will show whether the rear quarter panels have been repaired and whether the rear has been hit. Have sections of the original paint been repainted? Is the roof dented? Since the car hasn't been running in 15 years, it is going to be hard to determine how well it runs, whether or not the transmission shifts smoothly, etc. For me, the thing I would really want to know is what the compression numbers look like. If the owner is willing to let you agree on a price IF the compression numbers look good then I wouldn't hesitate to oil the cylinders a bit (through the plugs), let it sit a few days, manually turn the engine, change the oil, and then try to start it. If it ran 15 years ago, it may very well start. If you can do this then do a compression test and report back. This forum has multiple posts describing how to do a compression test. There are also multiple posts on waking up a car that has been sitting. So, if everything checks out regarding condition and compression, just know that you will have a decent amount of mechanical refreshing work to do. To me, this kind of work is fun. Body work, however, not so much. - You will need to rebuild the brakes (hydraulics and everything) - Basic tune-up stuff - Replace fluids and oil (engine, diff, trans, coolant), - Get cooling system in shape which will probably involve some hoses, cleaning out the radiator, water pump possibly, etc. - Tires. - You will almost certainly need to rebuild the clutch hydraulics (master, slave, clutch hose). As you get the car driving you will know whether the clutch / pressure plate need to be replaced. - Most likely you will need to refresh the suspension. Some or all of the following are possible- bushings, tie rods, ball joints, repack wheel bearings, strut inserts, etc. I would think of this as phase 2 after you get the car running and brakes refreshed. Back to value. So, for me, even though the car has been sitting 15 years and even though the car will need the kind of refresh work I describe above, if the car is in the condition you describe above, it is exactly the kind of car you want to stumble on if you are interested in a 280z. So, if all of this is true and you can start it even for a few minutes and you can verify compression numbers, I think any amount that you can pay less than 10K is a deal. If it was as described and running and sorted and not needing the things I mention to refresh, It is probably worth 15k or so....maybe more for the right buyer. As I said though, value is a personal thing. I place significant value on original paint cars. Even if you don't want to keep the original paint (though my bias is to try very hard to keep it), there is nothing like an original paint car to reveal to you exactly what is going on with the body, prior wreck damage, and rust. I hope this helps. Best of luck.
  3. Looking for rubber grommets

    240z rubber parts has them. The link below shows out of stock but anytime I email them they make whatever is out of stock fairly quickly. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423842
  4. Rear brake conversion

    Lots of options for doing either or both but....I am curious what are you trying to achieve. How do you use your car? What about the stock brake performance do you want to improve? My opinion...for a street car, even one that you drive in a really spirited way, totally rebuilt stock brakes with Porterfield or Hawk pads (and probably other brands too) work really well. And, along with pads, another way to improve stock brakes would be tires. I do track days with my MX-5 and braking is amazing. If I were to do track days with one of my zcars, I would probably start with stock brakes, track pads, and Castrol SPF brake fluid....and track appropriate tires. I bet I would need to improve my driving before I found myself needing better calipers, converting rear drums to disk, etc. Anyway...I don't mean to sound like I am discouraging upgrading. I have thought of doing it too....but usually remind myself how well the stock brakes work and then find something else to focus on. Just curious about your goals and thought process.
  5. Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

    Incredible car. Looking forward to watching your progress. Great work so far.
  6. Dished pistons for NA?

    Dave is a really smart guy and well respected but....given your situation I would encourage you to keep it simple and find the right pistons. They are out there on some shelf somewhere. And, honestly your best bet might be to take your time with this engine build and find a complete engine that is for sale but that was running recently. Folks do engine swaps in 280zs all the time. Craigslist typically has full engines for sale all the time. Here is a 75 L28 for sale. Not saying $900 is the right price but usually folks take less than what they advertise. Point is....engines are out there. And, if this is really a 75 L28 engine then it has a pretty nice N42 square port exhaust head. I bet in California Craigslist has lots of options. 75 L28
  7. Dished pistons for NA?

    Are you sure that Northern Auto doesn't have the ITM ry6134-20 in stock? ITM ry6134-20
  8. Dished pistons for NA?

    P79 head originally came with flat top pistons and was used for NA ZX cars. I personally would never build a P79 head with anything but flat top pistons. And, most folks who build the P79 head follow a process where they shave the head far more than you have. Guy can speak to this more.... @Diseazd
  9. Me & My Z - 45th Anniversary

    Really enjoyed your story about owning your 240z. Thanks for sharing. Your story caused me to think about some things. My dad bought his 72 240z in 73, slightly used, and paid as much as a new one. He put 190,000 miles on that car driving all over the southeast for his job. I drove a 280z during high school in the early 80s and put probably 30,000 miles on that car. My point is that reading your story and thinking about my dad's ownership makes me want to drive a 240z every day. Most of us, yes there are some exceptions, will never know what it is like to put that many miles on one of these cars and really experience all there is to know about the car. I find myself paranoid about letting it get wet. My dad drove his in the rain all the time. Funny.... Anyway, enjoyed the story. Take care.
  10. Hardway's Red Rocket 1972 240z Build Thread

    Looks like great fun. How is the rust situation?
  11. N42 Head on Ebay

    N42 heads are pretty hard to find. This one looks like a nice one to rebuild. N42 Head on Ebay
  12. Pads and Booster

    I personally don't see how the stick on shims would work or how they would be different from having no shim. I have found that something similar to the stock Nissan shim plus a light, full coating of brake grease / anti-squeal grease on both sides of the shim where contact is made with the pad and the caliper piston works. I have thought about why it works and I have a few theories but none are based on anything that really warrants sharing.
  13. brake proportioning valve

    I rebuilt two proportioning valves this weekend. I used the seal kit from MSA. I paid close attention to the orientation of the seals during disassembly. Both valves had the exact same seals in them and they were identical to the photos above where seal (3) in BR-8 is fluted / grooved on the flat outside edge and dotted on the cupped inside edge. Seal (5) in BR-8 is exactly like the photos above where it is a little thicker than seal (3) and not dotted or fluted / grooved on the outside or inside surface. For clarity, in the case of both seals, the cupped side is oriented to face the middle of the valve. I personally was easily able to match up the MSA seals with the equal (but not identical) original seals. I found disassembly and re-assembly to be fairly quick and easy. I used a small c-clip squeezer (not spreader) (OTC brand, 1120) to squeeze the c-clip and remove from valve. Re-installation is a little more tricky. I use the same c-clip squeezer to squeeze the c-clip and insert it partially into the valve. Then I used a 5/16 deep socket to push / press (gently) the c-clip down until it clicked into position. To be clear, I don't yet know whether the proportioning valve works as I am still rebuilding the brakes on my 240z. I should know in a week or so. The valve from my low mile car was very clean. The valve from the car I am rebuilding the brakes for was very full of dirt and sediment....but not corrosion. So, I feel like I accomplished something....assuming the valve works. And, I enjoy rebuilding little parts. I should also mention that I cleaned up all original seals and, to me, they look new....like they could be reused without concern. Again, I think the key thing I accomplished is cleaning out the valve.
  14. Maxima N47 cylinder head

    @esmit208 sorry but I do not. Those are pretty hard to find. I have one N42 on my 75 280 and one spare.
  15. Maxima N47 cylinder head

    I know folks express an interest in the Maxima N47 cylinder head from time to time. Here is one on ebay in case someone is interested. I have too many cylinder heads and two of these. Looks like it has been milled though. Good price though. To be clear, I am not the seller and do not know the seller. MN47 head on Ebay