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Kevin McSweeney

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About Kevin McSweeney

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    San Francisco, CA

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Architect

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  1. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Point taken - maybe I throw the term 'restoration' around too loosely. Clearly, as was pointed out, the goal is not to restore the car to factory-original condition. It's not going to be nut and bolt restored from the ground up - at least not for the foreseeable future - but that doesn't mean I can't do some decent work to keep it alive! Resto-mod sounds about right. The aim is to have a good looking, good sounding, fun to drive car for weekends.
  2. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    I am very serious about restoring this car, and don’t plan on really ever selling it. The only reason that I’m not doing a complete frame up restoration right now is that, as mentioned in the original post, I do not have space. As anybody living in the Bay Area is aware, space doesn’t come cheap here. That said, I do have access to a locked and enclosed yard where I store and work on the car. But sandblasting, priming and painting will need to be outsourced. I hope that makes sense!
  3. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Bit of an update - first and foremost, I finally got to drive the car for the first time since I bought it! Actually drives surprisingly well, though the suspension could do with a bit of work. Anyway, first milestone achieved! Now, I spent most of Saturday trying to remove the fenders. As you can see from the photos, it looks like some nice person previously jacked the car up right where the fender bolts to the sill. Short of cutting the bolts off, any suggestions on getting these 2 bolts out? Similar story on the opposite side! I did try to bend the pinch weld back but couldn't get much leverage on it. Also, as I'm sure is pretty common, the 2 screws underneath the cowl are stripped on both sides. Any advice for getting these out. Finally, do the headlight buckets have to come out before the fenders can come off? I also cut that horrid rear bumper off. Planning to fill any holes next weekend but I need to remove the chrome trim that runs the length of the body along the doors first. I thought this would be pretty easy to remove but it doesn't want to budge. What's the easiest way to remove this? I also marked out the locations and roughly fitted the fender mirrors (I figured I better do this before the fenders come off).
  4. 260Z dream car

    I happened to be in this shop earlier in the week and saw your car, along with the white 240 in the foreground. Looks great, congrats!
  5. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Yeah, i don’t know the entire history of it, but I know it was garages in Reno for quite a few years! And of course I may find more rust as I strip, but so far so good.
  6. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Currently home in Ireland for a few days, I’m planning on taking the fenders and hood off next week as I have a bit of work to do on them. I’ll definitely look at the front of the rockers. The back portion, and actually the back of the car in general looks largely rust free which is nice!
  7. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Bit of an update: Drivers side floor pan and frame rail (along with some additional work to the front rail and firewall) is almost done. Just need to grind smooth and tidy up. Working on the passenger side now as you can see from the last photograph. There have been bad repairs done to this previously, including what looks like some aluminum and fiberglass work on the floors. Hopefully I've got the worst of the rust! Not sure whether I was sent the wrong year floor pans or whether it's just the way they are, but they needed a lot of work to fit and I still needed to do additional metal fabrication.
  8. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Yes, I am planning to install the ZG flares, MSA urethane front air dam, ducktail rear spoiler, and do some shaving on the bumpers, etc. Interesting because I was almost planning to do that work last, after all the mechanicals were done. The order you have listed makes more sense though now that I've done some reading and some time thinking logically about it. Thank you! Making good progress on the floor pans and frame rails - will post pictures soon - appreciate all of the comments and thread links, I've been doing a lot of reading in the last couple of days!
  9. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Fair enough - I know it is pretty annoying to have to keep repeating oneself!
  10. Looking for advice on sequencing of restoration work

    Thanks for the replies. Ok, so does this make sense as a rough plan moving forward: - Once floor pan and frame rail work is done, undercoat using POR-15 (A specialist is doing this, not me, so I believe POR-15 is a good way to go). - I'll clean up the interior and get it ready for primer. Dynamat Xtreme on top of primer. - Take care of some bodywork such as shaving and filling, fix any dents, etc. - Pull motor and transmission and send body for media blasting. - This would be a good time to do brake and suspension work. - Paint exterior and engine bay. - Assembly. Couple of questions: 1. grannyknot - what epoxy primer do you recommend for interior application? 2. grannyknot - Beautiful car, is that an original color? If so what's the code/name? 3. After media blasting, am I right in saying I need to get the car to primer straight away? (In my experience after sandblasting, steel rusts extremely fast as it is so exposed) 4. Is the interior typically installed over primer, or is there a finish coat applied on the interior aswell? I normally see cars being painted with the interior taped and covered so only the exterior and engine bay receive color? Again apologies if some of these questions are pretty obvious to some, as I said, it's my first restoration and I'm keen to learn the process.
  11. So I'm getting started of the restoration work of my 1978 280z. The chassis repair and rust removal (replacement of floor pans and frame rails) and undercoating should be complete in a week or so. I am wondering what my best option is for the interior (top side) of the new floor pans. I am not planning on painting for a few months and I do not want to risk the floors rusting again. Should I apply undercoat (POR-15) to the interior as well? Also, I have access to a lot of Dynamat Xtreme and Superlite. Should I consider applying this to the interior while it is stripped? Basically I am a little confused as to the sequence of work on the interior now that the rust issue has (for the most part) been taken care of. This is my first real restoration. When I do come to paint the car, I guess it would be wise to paint the interior as it is already stripped? Also – looking for suggestions for color. The car was originally silver but has been badly repainted blue at some point (engine bay and interior are still silver). I’m thinking of a gunmetal gray with bronze wheels and all trim powder coated black. Any thoughts? At the moment I do not have the time or space for a frame up restoration (I am very aware that it would be a better way to do it but it’s not an option at this point so I don’t see the point in talking about it). So the order in which I am planning to do things is: · Frame/Rust removal · Brakes · Suspension · Exhaust · Bodywork · Paint · Engine (L28 is running well but at some point I may consider a rebuild) Apologies, this post is very messy, I tried my best to organize my questions but I want to do things in a logical order and avoid repeating or missing steps in the restoration. Any help would be appreciated.
  12. 1978 Datsun 280z For Sale (San Francisco, CA)

    Thanks gents, and Rob, once I get this chassis work done and new clutch hydraulics installed, I'll definitely need some help getting this to pass a smog inspection.
  13. 1978 Datsun 280z For Sale (San Francisco, CA)

    Decision is made! Frame rails and floor pans are ordered! Looking forward to your thread and again thanks for taking the time to reply to my post.
  14. 1978 Datsun 280z For Sale (San Francisco, CA)

    Yeah I was pleasantly surprised. All that was needed to get it running (since the previous photo which you were absolutely right about the disconnected relays) was to clean up a few of the relays and injectors. Gonna cost a lot of time and money to restore but will be worth it in the end hopefully.
  15. 1978 Datsun 280z For Sale (San Francisco, CA)

    Yeah that’s what I was wondering. Only the 3rd time the car has been started in about 3 years and it was cold.
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