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About AlbatrossCafe

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Issaquah, WA


  • Gender
  • Occupation
    Software Developer

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    1978 280z with L28ET Swap
  1. Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    What do you recommend then? I have plenty of space - about 10" long and 6" wide that I can work with. I'm down to try something different and even try a different shape.
  2. Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Well I hope between my coilovers and fully adjustable TTT control arms I will be able to figure something out. The last thing I want to do is tear up the fenders of this car! I'll post my results after some experimentation.
  3. Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Welp that's good to know. Potentially saved me $80. Once my coilovers come back from welding (hopefully by this weekend) I'll test fit and see how close it is. Now I'm kinda wishing I got a similar wheel but with like +5 offset. Might have been able to avoid touching the fenders that way.
  4. Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Got my new Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires mounted on new XXR 527 "Chromium Black" 16x8.25" +0 offset rims. I went with 225/50/R16 tire size. I got my tires for $99 each with free shipping. I am very happy with how cheap these very highly rated summer tires were! I am even MORE happy with how they turned out! Freakin gorgeous! I don't even wanna put them on my car, I just wanna have them in my room so I can stare at them all day! I am pretty sure I will have to roll my fenders before these will fit on my car. One of the hardest things with my 280z so far is finding a fender roller I can borrow for an hour... -.-
  5. Build Thread - New Turbo-Swapped 280z from WA

    Took out the old K&N air filter that the previous owner had installed. Don't even wanna bother cleaning it lol. I'll get a new one. Don't think this thing has been cleaned/changed since he did the L28ET swap back in 2004. On one side you can kind of see the K&N red poking through. The other side is just black.
  6. Do I need to remove rust on brake rotors?

    Low-budget wins! I figure it can't hurt to try them first - don't want to swap something that works. I just wasn't sure if it would damage the pads or something. Aside from the rotors, I plan to brush/sand the rest of the assembly and hit it with that "rust conversion primer" and then black rustoleum paint.
  7. I just bought some 280z struts that I am gonna use for a coilover conversion because I cut mine too short. I plan to clean up the rest of the assembly later, but I need to know what to do with the brakes. They have new wheel bearings/studs but the rotors are pretty rusted up since they have been sitting for a while. So I'm wondering, what is easier? Clean up rust on rotors and use new struts Swap existing "clean" rotors onto new struts If I clean off the rust, how thorough do I need to be? Is it a "shop should resurface these" thing or can I just use a wire brush and call it good? Or better yet, will the brake pads just do the work for me on the first drive? "New" Struts: My existing clean rotors:
  8. Price Check: 280z Front hubs for $200

    I'm headed that way. I'll pick up the "new" hubs next weekend. The shop did a great job welding the original ones... they would be great for someone who wanted to lower their Z car 2.5+ inches. Just PM me with what you are thinkin'
  9. Price Check: 280z Front hubs for $200

    '76 280z front hub is same as '78 one right? I know the 75-76 years and 77-78 years go together normally. I found a 76 assembly for $200 with basically new wheel bearings and rotors.
  10. Price Check: 280z Front hubs for $200

    That is the plan for the back, but it seems there is no way to cut the adapter off the front without destroying everything with that narrow of a space right at the inside of the hub. Unfortunately, the shop did the cutting/welding for me and I didn't keep any of the leftover tube but it sounds like them sourcing some new stuff won't be too expensive. I'm gonna try to haggle this guy down to $150 or so but it sounds like I shouldn't be too upset if I have to do $200.
  11. Price Check: 280z Front hubs for $200

    I did exactly that. Problem is, I cut them too short. i have to run car lowered 3" or more the way I cut them. I'll never make it out of my driveway at that height. The rear I can fix by adding some tubing, but the fronts I have to redo completely. See:
  12. 78-280z Rear Strut Insulators

    DOH! I just threw away my strut isolators off my 280z. They are long gone now Semi-unrelated, but on that note, I have 2 spindle pin hardware kits (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20n01b/23-4240ki) that I didn't end up using in my recent suspension install if you are looking for a replacement. PM me if interested. I'm missing a nut or two but otherwise I have no use these parts.
  13. Dude locally is selling front hub assembly off a 1977 280z for $200. He says that rotors, wheel bearings, etc. are in good shape. I need them to cut for my coilover conversion so I don't care about the strut itself. Is $200 a fair price? https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/240280z-parts/6514563435.html I saw them in the bottom left of this pic:
  14. How many threads on coilover to be safe?

    Here are some pics just to add some clarity to this post. I unscrewed the adapter sleeve from the coilover, and you can see how small of an area was holding it on. It was 5 threads which was about 3/8 of an inch: You can see the adapter sleeve has about 2 1/4" of threads inside the tube. You can still adjust the coilover below these threads depending on how much tube you leave inside the bottom of the sleeve. I left about 1" in my case. According to SakuraGarage, you don't really have to leave any, however, as long as you can center the adapter on the strut tube. This is clearly not enough lol. Anyway, the diameter of the tube is about 2". I lowered the coilover into the adapter sleeve so that about 1.5" of thread were in there. This should be enough. With 1.5" of coilover into the adapter sleeve, I was lowered about 2" in the front, and a little more in the rear. I will need to add about 2" of strut tube back to bring me near OEM height. I may be in the minority on this site, but I can't stand having the car so low haha. It will just scrape on everything and it is impossible to fit the jack underneath!
  15. How many threads on coilover to be safe?

    This changes the shock travel range, right?. I don't want my shock to be almost topped out because I crank the preload up or I use really long springs.