Dave WM

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Dave WM last won the day on April 26

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About Dave WM

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    Central FL
  1. well the seem fine to me at least the bottom, did not do the backs yet. On thing is they are thicker, as afterward I had less head room (hair on top of head brushes against the top now). I know if you get new covering material the old foam will not be thick enough, I tried and ended up with too much left over to fit correctly.
  2. IF the plugs confirm the rich condition which I think they will, then you need to move on to the EFI check list AT the ecu, starting with a reading of the temp sensor AT the ecu. I keep saying AT the ecu so you will be checking all the wiring from the sensors and the harness as well. the temp sensor and leaking CSV are all suspects that need to be looked at if rich condition exist. For the temp sensor you will need to check the water temp and compare it to the resistance chart in the EFI.
  3. agree with ZH, several things going on, sounds like a miss and prob super rich, which may account for a miss fire if you have a fouled plug. Install new correct plugs, try again and get a reading of them. Also I found very handy a mech stethoscope put the end to the injector body and listen for ticking sounds. ZH method works too, I just find it quicker to use the stethoscope to id a non functional injector.
  4. trying to understand why the ign module by the fuse box is running hot. Maybe that's normal, I never checked mine.
  5. pretty long thread, do you have the correct coil and ballast resistor installed?
  6. the fuel pressure is maintained by having a pressure regulator that monitors the engine vacuum to maintain a constant pressure relative to that. 36psi is where it should be with the pump running but the engine NOT running (no vacuum in the intake manifold). at idle you are more likely to see 30psi assuming all things are working as they should. The pressure will rise and fall based on engine vacuum. A massive air leak would therefore effect not only unmetered air but the fuel pressure regulator as well. You may want to get a vacuum gage hooked up as well. Vacuum leaks can create havoc. check all hoses and don't forget the PCV hose on the crank case AND the PCV valve. This assume you have a vacuum leak issue of course. the excess fuel provided by the pump will be returned to the tank via the return line. I suppose you will be ok with a non standard pump but again you are introducing a variable into the system. Its hard to know how to proceed unless you start by baseline the pump (pressure and volume AT the fuel rail). I started with a factory pump just to be sure I did not have an issue. What was in the car was one of the high pressure skinny long pumps that was good for 90psi. Are there any other non stock modification to the various systems (PCV as an example). things like loose fitting valve covers including the oil cap, can cause air leaks, as can leaky injector o rings, even a non secured oil dip stick. Also all the hoses that flow air from the AFM to the throttle body should be inspected for crack that would allow air to go unmetered.
  7. pretty sure the factory pump is rated at 55psi, most aftermarket pumps are 90psi. I went factory since you can still get them. I pretty much use that logic on all parts (if factory is available use that). That being said the fuel damper was part of the orig design so I see no reason to assume its ok to delete it. Maybe it will be fine but you just keep adding variable when deleting or re engineering stuff. The stock setup works very well, that includes all the EFI, EGR and PCV systems. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and then go thru the entire EFI section of the FSM in a methodical way. Things not generally covered in the FSM directly will be rust in the tank and the fuel lines. It does cover it indirectly by spec of the PSI and volume of fuel that is being pumped. Old school diagnostics start with a check of the plugs, how do they look? you can get a lot of insight into the condition of an engine by checking there. Also a good cylinder compression check is one of the 1st things to go to for overall health of an engine. But again all this is covered in the FSM,
  8. if it runs with the breather disconnected then you must be running super rich. Have you gone thru the EFI check list esp regarding the temp sensor for the EFI, and have you confirmed the cold start injector is working properly. No need to rip out the EFI, it works VERY well, you just need to systematically check the parts of correct operation.
  9. maybe a DIY using the old sleeve and inner tube? I tried to find something, could only find people making PU stuff for stiffer bushing. Perhaps a softer rubber compound could be cast into the void?
  10. yes but that is between the vapor tank and the hard line. I have disconnected the hard line on both ends.
  11. going to have to give the plastic trimmer stuff a try, I tried my own idea (lube) did not help a bit.
  12. did you try lube on the wire, may help.
  13. btw, how does the texture of the plastic compare to OE?
  14. I have a spare dash, maybe send it to them, then make a road trip to pickup.
  15. I have some pretty stiff wire used for tying rebar. I tried it on the evap line but it was too tight could not make the bends. the fuel line is bigger might work there, come and get it, I got a huge roll.