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About Rob1972

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    Scottsdale, AZ


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My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    '72 auto - converted to '81 5 speed and 4.11 R200 rear-end. Original L24 w/ 115K miles, no rust, no leaks. SU's, header, 3 row alum rad, 4 piston calipers, 280Z dizzy with HEI ignition module. Factory color #112 concealed by Arizona white.

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  1. Yeah, it was just a mental blip that zoomed through my little head. I'm not a pimp. Really. But I love those louvres, Sean. Nice work, I will follow your refresh on them, as mine jump around too. I have a receipt for them from 1979...$99.00
  2. Yes they fit a 240... Long term plan is to go with Candy Red with black and chrome accents. Would I be pimped out if I chromed the louvres? Opinions?
  3. Sweatybetty has a build going where he used a new wire harness, it's pretty sweet: hope that link worked Nice car...!
  4. Body color, Betty.
  5. RS02, in post 51 you question your float level, but now you say you're sure the bowls are fine. The two are closely related - if the banjo filters are caked with corrosion and fine particles (like mine were), your float level will not be correct during operation because the fuel flow could be very restricted.
  6. Recovering from shoulder surgery is sooo boring - what to do? A new shift knob! I've wanted to replace my black rubber pistol grip with a wood knob, but couldn't find anything I liked. I like things a bit unique so I just couldn't go for the standard wood blank. So after digging around online I found an eBay seller who hand made a laminated birch knob with a brass insert - to give it some heft. I hemmed and hawed, but finally plunked down the $100, pretty steep but as an artist myself I appreciate hand crafted over 'manufactured', and am willing to pay more for it. After all, the knob and steering wheel are the centerpiece of any interior, IMO. I'd like to orient the knob in a particular way, to show off the best sides and was thinking of using blue loc-tite to set it where I want it. Any problems with that? Sent from my iRecliner... Here's the suspect:
  7. Jeff, great info and thanks for the clarification. I thought Zed meant sidewall 'height', not sidewall to sidewall width (section width - which I didn't know existed!). From now on it's 'section width' not 'tread width'.
  8. Beg to differ: In Zed's example 205/70/14 = 205mm tread width, 70% of the tread width is the sidewall height (called aspect ratio), with 14 inch wheel diameter.
  9. If anybody else is interested: A little research turned up an aluminum bung to weld to the bottom of the tank: And an all aluminum draincock from the Corvette guys: I haven't checked on sizing yet but I imagine 3/8 being standard.
  10. Thanks Hardway, yeah I'll probably take it out as you suggested. This radiator is from Arizona Z Car 11 years ago, and it is considered a racing radiator even though I don't race. I just gave them a call, I think I talked to the owner, and he said they do not install a draincock because they feel that it could get knocked off since the bottom of the radiator is 2 inches lower than a stock radiator. I think one could easily be installed because it still sits higher than the oil pan. Thanks!
  11. My aluminum three row doesn't have a draincock installed (???). Rather than pulling the lower radiator hose every time, and making a mess, I'd like to install a draincock. I figure this will involve drilling / tapping which is fine, but I foresee tiny shards of aluminum making their way downstream. Suggestions?
  12. One of my pet peeve's - resolved. Count me in! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  13. +1 Wick's book is one of the three must have books for every Zcar restorer. Looking forward to getting the new edition! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. Your link showed a 5 slot wheel. I like 'em because they're fairly common for that era and fit the Z styling. Get the Konig's if you want more modern. Remember, you'll be looking at them way more than anyone else. And yes they come in 4 bolt. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile