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Everything posted by EuroDat

  1. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    That chamfer is a concern of mine too. You could slide the circlip around the cup so it gets maximum contact. You would need enough clearance around the back of the cup. Sometimes the distance is too small and the circlip jams between the cup and yoke. I came across the rockford 430-10 some 6 years back when I was cleaning my propeller shaft aftrr rebuilding the transmission. A company had them in a ad for 82-83 720 pick up and the dimensions looked good for the 280Z. The other thing that needs to be checked is the inside distance "B" in post 1861. Is the tolerance of this distance suitable to fit inner circlip u-joints? Could be batches out there with distances like 35.8mm or 36.3mm. That could cause a problem.
  2. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    I think they started staking because the smaller u-joints aee easier to fit. The measurements I took were 36mm inside faces, but that was with u-joint still in place so not very accurate. I think the inside is machine accuratly, because it would require less balancing weigths. My concern would be the tolerances used. 36mm could be 36.2 on one and 35.8 on another. It will be interesting to see how they fit.
  3. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Nice work. I had a list with yhe 720 pick up and as far as I could tell, the 720 had the same staked uni-joints. Would be good to have an alternative.
  4. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Little bit of digging and I found a grubby little yellow post-it with Rockford 430-10. They made them for nissan, subaru and many other models. They should fit and cost here in NL €29.50 each. Cup diameter: 22mm Distance between circlip outer edges: 35.7mm (standard circlips) @wheee! Mark, If your uni's are stuffed, can you dismantle one and take some accurate measurements? I have some other part numbers with slightly wider/narrower dimensions.
  5. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Mike, If you try this you will come across several problems, or should I say challenges to some of us here 1. The uni-joints on the propeller shaft after 7/75 are much smaller than the earlier units. You can't use the early style/half shaft uni-joints. 2. You need to find uni-joints of the smaller size with grooves in the cups for circlips. Not many of the smaller ones do. They are out there. I did find some and noted the part numbers. Ill look them up and post them later. That brings up the next problem. 3. Finding a uni-joint with circlip grooves the right distance apart of 36mm. Lets face it, parts are getting scarce. It would be nice to have this option.
  6. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    I think zcardepot still sell complete units for around $350. Not sure if that is remanufactured or new aftermarket.
  7. Hi Jesus. Looking at your post #32. You have a bosch AFM. Datsun used the bosch systems in the early models up to mid 75. Looks like the PO has been swapping parts from an early model. Did you have a chance to check the model ECU? Im almost certain the pin configuration is the same on the bosch and early JECsS systems.
  8. Nissan's solution to future Z?

    What... No photo of that little hobby tractor with snow chains
  9. [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    Wow. That is a nice array of cars you have. Grats. Im a 280Z owner so I don't get hung up on on all these issues. I have being told my car doesn't count because its not a "real" S30 ...... After excepting that as their opinion, I just get on with enjoying it. That is why I bought it in the first place.
  10. Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    Just to add my 2 cents on these connectors. I have repaired a couple of 280Z and a couple of european bosch variants which are basic the same thing. A LOT of these ebay sellers are just flipping stuff you can get from aliexpress. Clues like the brown insulator plugs point towards a lot of aliexpress stuff. Not saying they are bad quality, just cheaper when sourced directly. I have original Nissan, original Bosch, Aliexpress and a couple from ebay. I can not say one is better than the other. In the first photo is a mix from bosch (with blue tyco insulators) and stuff from aliexpress, note the brown insulators. Second photo is a typical kit from aliexpress. The harness (spare) in the last photo has the purple ebay connectors with the extra wire and nissan harness on the temperature sensors which are a bugger to remove from the sensor.
  11. Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    I replaced my EV1 connectors with these 4 years ago. Very neat compact plug. Never had any trouble with them and much easier to remove then the originals. If you buy two sets of 6 you will have enough for all the two wire connectors and two spare. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-QTY-EV1-FUEL-INJECTOR-CONNECTOR-QUICK-RELEASE-double-sealed-/181954792631?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10 You can buy a complete kit for around $50 - 60, but the plugs are the long version . All these plugs are the short conpact version. And with the wire you can shorten the original wire and solder them to a clean section of wire. The TPS and AFM don't have that option. You will need a special crimping tool for them. For the 3 pin afm connector, search for "bosch 3 pin connector" https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-3-PIN-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-BMW-PORSCHE-MERCEDES-VOLVO-SAAB-WIRING-HARNESS/391975738836?hash=item5b43931dd4:g:MA4AAOSwd4tT2BJS&vxp=mtr For the 7 pin afm connector, search for "bosch 7 pin connector" https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-7-PIN-FEMALE-HARNESS-CONNECTOR-MERCEDES-PORSCHE-BMW-VOLVO-ENGINE-HARNESS/391890689846?epid=1847139851&hash=item5b3e815f36:g:NnUAAOSwxH1T2UeV&vxp=mtr
  12. Bringing a 1977 Z back life

    Looking at your photo, I can't see the return line from the FPR. It should be in the red circle under the hose going to the valve cover. The return line has a 90 degree bend towards the front, so I would expect to see the second clamp. Im wondering if it is connected correctly. If it is, follow it through to the hose next to the filter. Disconect it there and test the pressure again. To test the pressure. Remove the little spade terminal wire on the starter motor so you can turn the key to start position to run the pump, but not crank the engine. Don't need to crank the engine to test the FPR. Like already mentioned, it should be reading around 36 psi. 55 is way too much and will flood the engine. The ECU is expecting 36 psi and won't compensate for high pressure. The 77 model had the two inlets (in blue circles) and the outlet (red circle) with a 90 degree bend. The 78 version had one inlet on the back side of the FPR. It's clear youhave the 77.
  13. WTB 280ZX distributor E12-80

    Sory, forgot to mention that. Yes clockwise increases spring tension and reduses the travel (advance) caused by vacuum.
  14. WTB 280ZX distributor E12-80

    The vacuum canister helps for streetdriving economy and emmisions. No performance value. Here is a link with some good info on datsun distributors http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl I made a screenshot of the vacuum casister section
  15. WTB 280ZX distributor E12-80

    @german240 Yes. We did it on a mates old rust bucket 280ZX. Unfortunatly we were not very carefull and the dremel we were using had too large a grinding head for the job. We managed to get the plastic out and adjust the screw, but it had a vacuum leak because the grinder went through the side wall. Its very thin and easy to do. Sealed it with a blob of silicone and it didn't leak in the time he had it. If I had to do it again, I would buy a kit of small grinding bits and take plenty of time to carefully remove the plastic.
  16. WTB 280ZX distributor E12-80

    +1. Zed head is on the right track. The 280Z dizzy single pick up (D6F4 to D6F6) had 17 degrees mechanical advance and 10 to 18 degrees vacuum advance depending on model number dizzy. You can mount a HEI just about anywhere. Thd 280ZX 79 - early 81 (D6K8 and D6K9) had 17 mechanical, but came with 10 to 30 vacuum advance. You can remove a blob of plastic to access a screw to adjust the spring tension in the vacuum dash pot, but it is tricky and you can damage it beyond repair. I don't know what your setup is, but if you are using tripples, you probably have the initial timing set higher than 10 degrees. If you have 15 degrees initial advance, you could have conditions with 63 degrees advance on some distributors. Something to keep in mind when you install one of these distributors.
  17. Sway bar end link bushings

    You have the extra washer on the Bottom side of the swaybar. It should be on the top side. See pos#31 in screenshot. It is not used when you use PU bushes. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  18. Sway bar end link bushings

    The raised lip goes in the sway bar. See photo's. The lip is there to prevent the swaybar touching the metal bolt. Prevents meta, to metal rubbing noises and acceleratd wear on the bolt.
  19. ok so to your questions 1. yes it is a 79 280zx distributor i dont know if its a D6K9 it dose have external HEI witch is the little box outside it right if so yes. What did you do to disconnect the external TIU. It could be causing issues with the HEI. Note: The 280ZX 79 – 80 used the D6K9-02 through to D6K9-10 distributor I think. Might be more versions. They are mostly the same, but some with slightly different advance curves and vacuum advance. The only thing important here is it’s a D6K9 series with build-in TIU. 2. yes no more ballast. 3. yes new coil it is a BWD coil it is a 12v not to sure on the amp number how would i check that?. 12 volt is the most important. If it’s a 3amp coil the HEI won’t go to current limiting. You will probably have problems running spark plug gaps of 0.040 to 0.044”. A gap 0.28 to 0.031” would be the better with a 3.0 amp coil/HEI combination. 4 & 5. i did check the wires didnt do a supper deep check but they seem good i will go over them again and clean and check for swollen parts for all three wires. Corrosion in the terminals is a big problem and can cause voltage drop in the ECU power supply. A lot of weird issues in the ECU because the ECU does’t like low voltage. See photo's of corroded terminals. 6. i have not installed one yet but i been meaning to will try and do it tomorrow. Install one. You need to know what your pressure is. 7. i do not know what a yoghurt cop test is but i did check all my lines and boots and they are pretty good boots look almost like new. A yoghurt cup test is a simple leak test you can do on the inlet manifold. Basically you remove the rubber hose between the AFM and the Throttle body. Block the hole in the throttle body with a “Yoghurt cup”. I use a plastic sheet over the open end and a Tye-rap to seal it off. After you have done that I remove the hose that goes to the AAR and blow into the manifold there (See photo for location). Even with your lungs you should feel pressure build up. My 77 holds pressure for about 15-20 seconds or more before its gone. If you (or someone helping you) hears air blowing out the exhaust, That is valve overlap and you will need to turn the engine a little to find a spot where there is no overlap. 8. i have i kinda have it wear it seems to run the best wen it decides to run Do you have a timing light to check it while you crank the engine? It should be around 10deg advance. 9. well my tach at first it did for less then a second but now i do not have the dash in my car and my harness is fairly clean no cuts That is the first you mentioned the dash is out of the car. and about the last owner no all he told me is that he swapped the engine ECU might be stock as the harness in and outside the car looks stock as well. Can you have a look on the ECU. You should see a number beginning with A11-xxx-xxx. Since we don’t know for certain what the PO did, you could have an ECU that doesn’t match your harness pin layout. There are a lot of different ECU’s out there and not all will work in your car. thanks for your help to all you guys it is very frustrating specially wen i had it running fine for less then an hour haha thank you guys a lot. You also mentioned the Transistor unit was on the ground and it sparked. Can you explain that in more detail. Things like when the key was in ON position. Or when cranking the engine it started sparking through the metal box to the chassis/floor of the car? That does not sound good at all. That could have damaged one of the fusible links in the engine bay in front of the battery. The ignition relay might be working and supplying power to the dropping resistors (inner fender next to the brake booster) and the injectors, but the ECU grounds them. Like Zed Head said. The CSV works on a different circuit in the ECU and doesn’t need anywhere as much current to work. It could work easily on a poor power and give you enough fuel to start the engine. A way to test this theory is to use starter fluid on the engine. When you start it, spray it into the intake and try to keep it running on that. That would confirm your injectors or pump are not doing their job.
  20. Hi Jesus. You have been working on this problem for a while now and it must be very frustrating. It would frustrate me, and that is putting it mildly. I just read through this thread again and some things are not clear to me. Can you answer some questions to give us and idea were you are at. We have not seen the car, so we need your feedback to give any kind of usefull advice. 1. You changed the distributor to a 79 280ZX (D6K9) with built-in TIU. Are you still using the distributor with the external HEI module? 2. The ballast resistor is now bypassed. In our pm conversation. 3. Did you replace the coil with a 12 volt coil, one with 0.6 to 1.0amp specifications? 4. Did you check the ground wires at the battery? Wires to the body and to the ECU are not swollen and distorted. That is a sign of corrosion under the insulation. Check the connection for corrosion in the spade terminal plugs. 5. While you are at it. Check the fusable link spade terminals on the ECU positive wire. They corrode too and can cause voltage drop to the ECU. 6. Have you installed a fuel gauge to confirm the fuel pressure is ok? The fuel filter is NOT only one thing that can cuase presuure to fall away. 7. Did you a "yoghurt cop" test to confirm you don't have a really bad vacuum leak? 8. Have you tried turning the distributor while starting it, or rotating it back and forward and testing if it runs? Replacing the distributor, the timing could be way off. 9. Does the tacho work when it does run for a brief couple of seconds? Do you know what the PO has done? He changed the engine, but did he change anything else? ECU, wiring harness etc. Here is hoping you get it solve and up and running soon.
  21. Yes, What do you mean by diconecting the AFM? If you mean disconecting the 7-Pin plug, then yes it will start, but it will never run more than a couple seconds because the fuel switch is in the AFM. The fuel pump is activated by the key contact when it is in start position and after that it is operated by the contacts in the afm. What was it doing before you disconectdd it. Would not fire at all or ?? Interesting adjustment method on the 76 model. It uses a screw on the counter weight like the 78 where the 77 has a tab in the housing. Not helping you any, but just interesting to note the small changes.
  22. Front Lip Reproduction trial

    I think they are Belgium. They are about half an hour from were I live in NL. They had a good forum for members. Don't know if it is stil active. I use a company here in NL called Formx for the silicane rubber.Smoothsil 950. It worked really well and lasts a long time before twaring. I always used a very light coat of release agent. http://www.formx.eu Nice instrctions and info on mold making here too.
  23. Front Lip Reproduction trial

    I would go for a silicone shore A 50 or 60. And one with a platinum catalyst instead of the tin catalyst variety. The tin catalyst silicone will work, but it feels oily and attracts dust and grime. Its not as durable as the platinum silicones. +1 on your supplier advice for sh. 80. The harder the better for wind resistance. Sh 80 will still be flexable. Have you looked at the website from Alumilite. They use to have some interesting how to videos. Good to get you thinking about how to go about it. https://www.alumilite.com
  24. Front Lip Reproduction trial

    Can't believe I missed this thread. Playing with PU rubber I can probably understand the challenges you are/will have in this project. Fun but challenging. The biggest job I have done was my 280Z turn signal lenses for the tail light. The harder the shore the better. If you can get 80 or harder, I would use it. Another suggestion, use shore 60 for your experimental phase. It flows much better and is forgivjng while you perfect your technique. The resin begins to set after 15 minutes or so and the harder the shore, the harder it is to work with. You will want a vacuum pump that will get close to absolute vacuum. 200mBarA will not be enough to get all the air out of 75 shore PU. The container for the resin needs to be 4 times larger than the resin you are using otherwise it will boil over. 1 Litre resin = 4 litre container and a vacuum container to suit. Lightly spray the mold with release agent. Don't overspray it, but make sure you don't miss any sections. PU really likes to stick to silicone.
  25. No worries, its Friday. I agree with the tuneup. The engine has a 20% increase in capacity over the L24 so everything working right you should have a noticable increase in power.