TomoHawk

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TomoHawk last won the day on March 13 2016

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About TomoHawk

  • Rank
    1978 280Z (stock)

Social Contacts

  • Website
    http://www.angelfire.com/pe2/modeltom

Contact

  • Member Map Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Interests
    Classic rock Music, Yacht Racing, sports cars, cycling, and GOD
  • Occupation
    scientist/chemist/computer prog/ I.T. Instructor

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    Mostly stock and original.

    1972 Ford Escort RS 2000 (sold to collector)
    1976 Mustang II fastback ( V-6, gave to cousin)

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. The guy just told me the "heater control valve" needs to be replaced. Jeff at ZCarSource tells me there are two valve there for heat and A/C control, so I need to get the paret from the tech to see what I need, but it's not the hose. I will get new hoses too. He says the heater core is about done too... We are bypassing the heater for now so I can store the car at home, but it will all be repaired.
  2. The repair guy says I need a new heater control valve. Is there a replacement? How about a source for a good unit that doesn't take a week for delivery? As soon as you say "1978" tey tell you it's NLA...
  3. I seem to have settled on the Rustoleum BBQ black paint, at least for this summer. I was looking at the dash from the passenger side ( for a different viewpoint) where it has more flatter areas, and I noticed that it has a nice, even sheen, with few 'hot spots' and was not too "black" which I think would make the cabin seem darker at bight. I'll call it a medium black" compared to the carbon black color mentioned earlier in this thread. I rubbed the paint with my hand to see if it left oily marks; it didn't. Rubbing with a paper napkin did no damage, but I did see a small scratch, probably from tossing my hat or glasses on top. I think it would appear normal for a classic, driven vehicle, unless you want perfection for show use.
  4. Hopefully that's the case for me. Fortunately, I have water for coolant in the summer, and there 's a small leak in the floor; I think it's the rubber floor plg, which is not a big deal. I'll look into that before reinstalling the carpet to figure out what would be proper for that spot (or drain.)
  5. I think that at this time in this discussion, that we can say that unless you can really find a place to truly "hide" a kill switch, the only truly hidden place for a switch is with you (in your pocket.) With the benefit of small, wireless devices, you can make sure that someone won't find the way you enable the car. You just have to be sure to always keep the transmitter with you or never lose it, which is another thing.
  6. I found some dripping from behind the fan motor after I noticed the water temperature gauge was indicating very hot. It could be the water valve or the small hose that's back there. Which is more common to fail, the valve or the hose? BTW- I used a flush chemical earlier this Spring. but the effluent was clear, so I don'yt think it loosened any rust.
  7. Since I am the only Zed owner in 100 miles, there won't any response to a sales ad. I figure that since I got a fender once via a reseller yard 800 miles away, the resellers have to be getting them from somewhere or stocking them.
  8. I just got a new book called The Sport Car, It's Deign And Performance by Colin Campbell. It will be a few weeks before I can start reading it, but it sounds interesting, as it will probably discuss the body-on-frame type of cars, which the Zed isn't. Another book I considered getting was The Sports Car Engine, Its Tuning and Modification by Colin Campbell. It's not really related to the Zed's L28E, but it might be entertaining or informative in its own right.
  9. OK, what was the purpose of having the fusible link for the starter solenoid? The L28 EFI engines just had a 16Ga wire, which is hardly the same. OTOH, there are TWO fusible links for the EFI there by the relay box. Did you disconnect a particular one, or was there no difference? It might be a good place for a kill switch connection- that is, unless the engine will still run, which it shouldn't, if the injectors weren't flowing fuel into every cylinder. I haven't checked yet, but if the injectors had a common wire, there's another place for a kill switch- and the injectors needed little current ( just a good 12V) to operate.
  10. It would be better to just drop the whole mess off at an auto reseller, instead of having to deal with buyers and haggling.
  11. The idea was to use one of the wireless relays to inhibit the starter. But for a 10A relay, you could put it on the ignition coil in stead, although I'd rather not mess with the coil- it could bite you at the worst time.
  12. I have the check the specifications for my relay, but is that too much for the inrush? It's a 10A relay
  13. I don't have a fuse link on the starter. There is the heavy battery wire, and a skinny wire that connects to a flat terminal on the solenoid. I was interested in knowing how much current is on that thin wire. when you energize the starter.
  14. I have the body panels left from my parts car (a 1978) and I won't be needing them, along with all the lights and some other things. Since there is basically no way for the ordinary person to box and ship things like wings and bonnets, I thought that I could take all but the bonnet to a reseller for a bit of cash. Otherwise, it's only worth the price of scrap steel. Besides an automotive reseller, is there any other place that might accept good-condition Zed sheetmetal?
  15. Has anyone measured the current draw on the starter SOLENOID wire while starting? It might be a good place to add a switch or remote relay.