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  2. Too late now, but forgot to mention it before... I was in HD and Lowes this past weekend and both of them have plenty of muriatic acid on the shelves. I thought of you when I saw it. NJ may not have it, but you can still come across the bridge to get it.
  3. Thanks Chas, ideas, who knows where they come from, some are mine some are stolen. Yes can't put a brace over the engine so I thought I would try to stabilize things a different way. But I have just found out a few days ago that I don't have to have the stock air box now that I'm using a stand alone FI management system, the air box was the reason I couldn't have the brace bar in the first place, oh man.So much for my ideas. I may end up with something like this, in which case I would have plenty of room for a cross brace. The car is a joy to work on now, I'm dipping every project from now on.
  4. Hi all. Thanks for your suggestions. Just got home from work. I pulled the plugs and cranked the starter - sure enough, there is a whole lot of water in cylinder 6. So I guess it's the head gasket? If so, good news I suppose. Could be a lot worse! I've always used quality coolant, but I've only had her for 5 out of her 35 years. The radiator was certainly full of plain old water when I took ownership. That said, the radiator was in fairly good condition and didn't run brown when I first drained it. 1982 280zx 2+2 non-turbo, auto in Melbourne, Australia
  5. Today
  6. I see now your wheels aren't coated after a zoom in and they look great! A 70's 280 parked by a charging station is so funny to me. Great sense of humor and beautiful car. Keep on Z'ing.
  7. Why do you want the change clocks. If you are doing it because you happen to have a ZX clock handy, it might be easier to try and repair the original. Do you still have the original? Here is a write-up by @monkeyman in australia. It seems an easy procedure to follow and would probably be a lot easier than converting a ZX. I think zclocks does an exchange service. How to fix your 260Z or 280Z clock - rev 1.pdf
  8. I agree Zed. First identify the problem, then fix it. It could be a number of things causing his problem and changing stuuf will eventually solve it, but that can cost $$$$. It could be as simple as a loose pick-up coil and the gap is now too wide. Just saying.... The tests I listed in section 9 of the instruction are out of self evaluation and from the manual. It should be enough to identify where the problem is or eliminate sections until one item is left. Testing the TIU is very difficult for the home hobbyist, but using the process of elimination you can identify it ss the cause. A quick test would be: Disconnect the TIU plug and use a wire with spade terminal to make a connection to ground. Turn ignition on and tap the wire rappidly to ground while someone checks for spark using the timing light on the HT wire going from coil to the distributor cap. That would eliminate everything on the coil side of the system. Then it's down to testing the reluctor, reluctor wiring, TIU and power/ground to the TIU.
  9. Here is a photo of the kit I had from Datsun Comp Department. The perch's were welded on higher up. I did measure but can no longer recall the amount. I did talk to d*** Roberts and he said the perch was made higher for race tire clearance as I recall.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Agree Steve. My tach worked by just hooking the blue wire to the negative coil terminal. I abandoned the OE wiring and ran a new +12V and -12V to the coil/ZX distributor.
  12. Exedy 6009 is what I bought too, good clutch kits.
  13. I'm sorry for not reading all the post but what makes you think you need a new clutch? I've worn them so bad they wouldn't make it out of the driveway. If it's hard to get in gear it may be the slave cylinder is not extending with the proper force. Maybe just air in the line or a bad slave cylinder? If it's slipping is it persistent or when you first leave out? Maybe a little oil leaking down on it? What sucks is the only way to know if it's worn is measure the depth around the rivets on the friction disc and it has to be taken out to do that. These cars are great when they're right! but bad when they aren't. Best wishes for you and Redbird, Cliff.
  14. You may be running low float levels and the bowls are slow to fill. Soft foot and you can get to 100mph.
  15. Well i have set both carbs to 2.75 turns and have lowered the timing from 15 bdtc to 12btdc. I like it more with 15 btdc because it had a better response when speeding from 1st gear.
  16. Hey there, new here! Just wondering if this is still for sale. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. the picture with number 237 is from the historic Acropolis Rally
  18. Nissan built the R381 race car, affectionately known as the Monster Bird, specifically to prevent the equally monstrous Toyota 7 from winning the Japan Grand Prix. At last year’s NISMO Festival Nissan took the car out for a spin around Fuji Speedway, mixing … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  19. Sold, thanks Spoofan.
  20. Oh, you're hot today although I've been "Sean" of humour recently - it'll grow back !
  21. Here’s a screen shot from Abunai Deka, the 80s Japanese cop show, from an episode in which a Nissan President is involved in a chase and ends up on its roof. Video of the chase may be long gone, but fortunately our … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  22. If you have removed the old bushing and take out the metal by mistake you can always put a shim in. That bar is not trash. Remember that the 240 and 280 bars fit differently (in front or between) the diff/suspension bracket support legs. That is enough room to make the holes line up or in your case not line up. I ended up making a note to myself where the bar goes (in front or behind) and have marked the bars accordingly, as I swap out diffs for different tracks (R180 - 4:11, 4:38, 190 - 4:44, 200 - 3:90). It would be nice if I had all the ratios in one type of diff.
  23. I agree, I have been logging in on to BaT everyday for years and with the exception of a few notable instances, I think BaT's buyer pool has been saturated with 240z's, case in point: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-7/ A car listed by one of our own members, certainly not as well maintained as the OPs car but a series 1, honest, clean driver with only a few small rust issues failed to make reserve. Don`t get me wrong, I love BaT and their buyer base is getting wider all the time, I just don`t think they are the best place to sell Z`s at the moment, great place to buy them though.
  24. I have a set for the 240z they we modified them for light weight race doors and ended up not using them. I am sure they could still be used as skins. JLP
  25. Also early radio? You mean TM-1081ZB(S)? AM radio? Or the later KM-XXXXX radio with FM tuner found in 72+ 240z's delivered to North America?
  26. Is your 1 on eBay or is that another? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332131928746
  27. JNC readers were pretty much in universal that the Mitsubishi Eclipse name would have been better laid to rest than revived for a crossover, even though the once great sport coupe had morphed into a bloated cruiser with little semblance of performance by … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
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