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  2. It snowed yesterday as I took the race car back to the garage but the good news is that we are now 5 sets away from 2,000 frame rails sold. However buys the 2,000th set, and anything else purchased along with them, will get a complete refund.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Couple pics of the hatch area. Dark spots are just dirt. Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
  5. Yeah, always fun to get a short ride down memory lane and you know all about Safari Gold! This is the car just before the teardown. You can see it is noticeably lower by looking at the lack of opening at the top of the wheel arches and the tires. I could barely get fingers into the gaps. Steel wheels painted silver made do for my "alloys" back in my poor days. The Mulholland springs eventually went to one of our forum members up north for the price of shipping.
  6. I had the car on a rotisserie so could weld from underneath on the inside and outside of the car, also a few tack welds around the outside of the panel that was hidden with seam seal.
  7. I should've updated as I think I've diluted the thread a bit. There was moisture in my TVS, but my rpm related problem was due to the alternator hold down bolt coming loose, causing the belt to slip preventing smooth voltage distribution to wherever it needed it. I guess that rpm was just the right spot to make it run weird. Thanks for your reply.
  8. It is located roughly 30 minutes from me. Unfortunately I won't be able to jump on it if its legit, but I'd be happy to check it out for anyone who's interested.
  9. Email sent. Thanks for taking the time to find it. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. until
    April Meeting XXX Rootbeer Drive-in @ 98 NE Gilman Blvd, Issaquah, WA 98027, USA
  11. Hey guys sorry, I got a PM last night and it sold. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. I think you're may be on to something, Jim. However, the 'bolt' (actually more like a long stud) is non-rotational because it's designed to be firmly tightened into the blind threaded hole in the float bowl casting. That means that you wouldn't be able to rotate it to a new position (to take advantage of the eccentricity you're proposing) unless you were prepared to leave the threaded stud-to-casting joint 'loose' after you'd found the bolt orientation position you want. Maybe a thin jamb nut? If that would work (and I'm sure that one or all of Capt Obvious, Blue, Patcon, Grannyknot and maybe even Z Therapy are about to start work on this ), then it would seem that the final touch would be to slot the other end of the 'bolt' (where the lock nut) to allow use of a screwdriver to turn the bolt to make adjustments. Adjusting sequence would be: loosen lock nut on end of bolt loosen jamb nut where bolt fits into float casting turn bolt until desired fuel level is observed inside carb nozzle tighten jamb nut tighten lock nut job done One additional thought: I don't think the bolt offset needs to be more than 5mm. That would provide an up-down adjustment of +/- 5mm for the float bowl. If you set the float 'tang' adjustment to the FSM-recommended setting to start with, an additional +/- 5mm of adjustment should be more than enough to zero in on the desired fuel height in the carb nozzle. Gentlemen: Start your lathes. Report back here in a week, with pictures (to prove that it really happened). Whoever wins owes me two finished prototype eccentric bolts.
  13. Did it run hot before you found the fan clutch failure? Can you replace the fan clutch? I replaced both fan clutches on the two 240s I've had along with a new water pump and thermostat. The needle points straight down, south. 175 fahrenheit. The one I have now has a 280Z radiator and full plastic shroud off a 280ZX. It runs 170 fahrenheit. It's a lot easier to install a 280Z radiator than more electronics like the fans, to me. The only drawback is the 280Z radiator hangs down 2 or 3 inches more.
  14. Print options getting scarce. But they've put their archives online, including May with their final Z article: https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2017/05/Default---1973-Datsun-240Z/3750807.html https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx https://www.hemmings.com/editorial/hsx-index
  15. This was something I would have had to search for soon, I'm about to replace mine. Thanks for the head start. Here's a 240 I had that was barely touched. Cones are facing the engine bay too.
  16. Does anyone know what the reserve was? Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  17. You won't find it there. The exterior color code is a foil decal on the radiator support. As for the interior color, there is no identifier.
  18. Hahahaa dishwasher hose and garden hose! what kind of hoses really go in their place!?? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  19. I don't drop by much anymore, now that my Z is gone.
  20. One sold. I forget Patcon. I bought both new and I have an old Datsun Competition Catalog here but the price list was a separate sheet and it's not around anymore...
  21. I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out. What's up with that? My 260 (which had A/C) didn't look like that. It had two separate slots for the temp and fan controls. I see that the chrome is missing from the middle of the top slot... Maybe someone removed the section between the two slots and mounted it upside down? I know I'm reaching here and I don't know why someone would do such a thing, but that's all I got.
  22. Cool. Give me a call if you need any help!
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