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Showing results for 'damper' in content posted by Diseazd.
Found 41 results
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Nissan solved the problem of driving out the woodruff key with their next generation of dampers for the 280’s. The damper was radiused in about 1/4 inch so you could easily slide the damper over the woodruff key before snugging up the damper onto the crank snout. I guess you could take your early damper to a machine shop and have them do that for peace of mind. I always put new 280Z dampers on my builds just for that reason. -
If indeed, your problem is caused by the damper bolt bottoming out, no matter what your set up is,(and it sure sounds to me like it is), I can promise you that you will destroy the crank in short order if you keep running it. If it were me, I would 1) either reinstall the old damper with the stock bolt, or 2) add another spacer washer to your set up to prevent the bolt from bottoming and see if the noise mysteriously disappears. Nothing else I can add.
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If I recall, the washer had a step down. If I installed it one way, it dropped into the opening of the damper and caused the bolt to bottom out in the snout......BAD! If installed on the flip side, it wouldn’t drop in and the bolt wouldn’t bottom out. I just ditched the expensive “so called” Nismo bolt combo and went back to the stock damper bolt and washer and the noise disappeared. I pulled my hair out too. You can thank @Zed Headfor this if that was your problem.....he saved your arse a ton of hair pulling. I have a thread called “Strange noise coming from my L28” or something to that effect. If someone knows how to find it, it explains the whole process. I don’t know how to find my old threads. Every time I learn how to use this site, @Mikechanges it LOL. Good Luck! Sorry Mike.....still waiting for that trip to Holland. PS. I added pictures of that expensive bolt and washer that caused the problem.
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Great point @Zed Head. If he didn’t go back with the stock damper bolt, he may be having the same problem I had using the performance damper bolt from Motorsports. Like you said, the bolt and washer combo was too long, bottomed out in the snout and made a weird noise under load because it didn’t snug everything up. Pulled my hair out trying to find the noise. Make sure you use a washer and bolt that is short enough not to bottom out. You want the bolt and washer to snug everything up. Very, very important. I started a thread on the subject, but I think it was @Jeff G 78 that had the pic.
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Ztherapy sells SU oil. Why not use what they recommend? I've got a couple bottles of their oil and it seems a heck of a lot thinner than 30wt. oil.........but about the same consistency of 3 in One machine oil ( in the little squeeze cans ).
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The later Nissan stock dampers (280's) have about a quarter inch radius (inside diameter) larger than the rest of the bore. This is very important as far as alligning the woodruff key. You have 1/4 inch to feel the key engage the groove in the damper. If not aligned perfect, it will drive the woodruff key through your oil slinger. Ask me how I know this?
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Yes, I bought 2 premium dampers from MSA.....I ended up throwing them away.....wasn't about to sell my problem to someone else. Don't use those expensive bolts on your stock damper unless you machine that drop down off the washer.
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Phillip.....I finally gave up. I bought two performance dampers and they were so tight I was afraid to torque 'em on. I had them machined and still felt uncomfortable. If you use the Nismo performance bolt, don't use it on a stock damper. The drop down on the washer bottoms out on the end of the crank, preventing everything from pulling up tight up front. Been there....done that! Regards. Guy
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Thanks for that info John......I was afraid that I was going to drive the woodruff key through the oil slinger if it wasn't aligned properly. The early 280 dampers are honed out 1/4" by the factory so you can feel the woodruff key lock into the damper. I usually put a mark on the center of the the keyway for installation, but if you misalign the damper, it can gouge the damper or worse.
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Double post.....double screw up.
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I've got 5 Z's......I ordered them both at the same time. They were so damned tight, I had them machined to fit. Still sucked.....threw them away......didn't want to give anyone else my headache. Just say I trusted MSA to know it's product.
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I bought two also......threw them in the dump.
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.......at this point I tossed both of mine in the dump. I didn't want to screw anything up.
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Ditto that.....right down the flusher with two new dampers and two worthless bolts. I feel better that I'm not alone....."Another please bartender"!
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Problem with that, is if the woodruff key isn't perfectly aligned, you'll drive that right through your oil slinger! :stupid:
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I bought 2 of the SFI-spec racing dampers from MSA. The fit was poor....I had to take the pulley to a machine shop to modify both the keyway and the bore. It was so tight when I tried to install it out of the box that you would have needed a sledge hammer to install it!!! I ended up putting them on the shelf and buying 2 stock two groove dampers. If you or anyone else wants the racing dampers, PM me and you can have them both for $100.00 plus shipping. The early 280z stock dampers are the best (for either the 240 or the 280) because there is a 1/4" honed area in the bore that allows you to slide into the woodruff key and then tighten it up. Experience is good!!!
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This is exactly why the 280 damper bores were machined back far enough so you could feel the groove receive the woodfuff key. If you are off just a tiny bit, it can push the key through the oil slinger. So many ways to screw up a good motor by one mistake......what a waste! BTW Capt.....you want a tight fit on your damper.....some race dampers require up to 250lbs. of torque to install.
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What kind of damper bolt and washer is in your damper? I used one of the Nismo damper bolt sets with the drop down washer once with a stock damper. When you torqued it up, it set down in the damper against the nose of the crank without really snugging up the crank pulley, worm gear and oil slinger. If the washer you're using isn't flat (as in one plane), this could be your problem. It results in chain noise and will drive you crazy trying to figure out where it came from.
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@AK260 Have you thought about notching out a spot in each blade to clear those bolts. You could dremel out a notch in each blade to clear those stickie outie bolts. That would keep you from installing a spacer so thick that it would hit the radiator. Just a thought. I didn’t install those bolts in my damper.
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Here is the fan I had to go with to clear the Super Damper....still barely cleared. Also, a picture of a set of fan spacers. I assume they are for the 280ZX’s to clear the three row dampers, but don’t have a clue if that’s correct. I guess you could easily make your own spacer out of a number of materials. Stickie outie is what I had too.....just glad it didn’t push the fan too close to the radiator....I didn’t want to go electric.Now that I look at it, I wonder if I could have symmetrically removed some of the inside corner of the fan blades to clear the stickie outie bolts?
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I had to find the bigger offset fan for my Super Damper.....I found one with factory spacers.....gave me the clearance I needed. Curious if that came from a 280ZX with 3 row? Anyone seen these spacers?
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It works with the damper and seal to keep oil from leaking. You can get to it rather easily if you think you may have put it on backwards. Pull the damper, pop out the seal and remove the slinger. If backwards, simply reinstall correctly, tap in a new seal and replace the damper. You should then be able to install the spindle easily.
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Right Jeff...I bought two of the SFI Racing dampers a couple years back. So tight I couldn't get them started either. If you don't line a damper up perfectly, it can drive the the crank pulley key through the oil slinger. I ended up tossing them and installing brand new stock 280 Nissan dampers (still available from Nissan). If they don't fit, the manufacturer should hone them (not our responsibility) to fit the 240 and 280 cranks IMO. The Nissan 280 cranks actually hone a 1/4 inch section so you can slide the damper on over the crank key before you torque it on (very easy alignment). I won't purchase another from Motorsports until they fix the problem which is too bad, because other than fit, they looked like a well made product.
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You can still buy a 79 (early 280) damper new from Nissan......it is about the same weight as the early Z's. Seems to me they were about $150.00. The single groove performance dampers from MSA are cheaper, but they fit so damned tight that if you're not lined up just right, they can drive out the woodruff key. I would go with the 79 280 damper (the timing mark can be filed into the damper). All IMO. Guy
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