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Showing results for 'damper' in content posted by Diseazd.
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New Oil Pump Installed, now hearing noise from engine?
Diseazd replied to Ownallday's topic in Help Me !!
If indeed, your problem is caused by the damper bolt bottoming out, no matter what your set up is,(and it sure sounds to me like it is), I can promise you that you will destroy the crank in short order if you keep running it. If it were me, I would 1) either reinstall the old damper with the stock bolt, or 2) add another spacer washer to your set up to prevent the bolt from bottoming and see if the noise mysteriously disappears. Nothing else I can add. -
New Oil Pump Installed, now hearing noise from engine?
Diseazd replied to Ownallday's topic in Help Me !!
If I recall, the washer had a step down. If I installed it one way, it dropped into the opening of the damper and caused the bolt to bottom out in the snout......BAD! If installed on the flip side, it wouldn’t drop in and the bolt wouldn’t bottom out. I just ditched the expensive “so called” Nismo bolt combo and went back to the stock damper bolt and washer and the noise disappeared. I pulled my hair out too. You can thank @Zed Headfor this if that was your problem.....he saved your arse a ton of hair pulling. I have a thread called “Strange noise coming from my L28” or something to that effect. If someone knows how to find it, it explains the whole process. I don’t know how to find my old threads. Every time I learn how to use this site, @Mikechanges it LOL. Good Luck! Sorry Mike.....still waiting for that trip to Holland. PS. I added pictures of that expensive bolt and washer that caused the problem. -
New Oil Pump Installed, now hearing noise from engine?
Diseazd replied to Ownallday's topic in Help Me !!
Great point @Zed Head. If he didn’t go back with the stock damper bolt, he may be having the same problem I had using the performance damper bolt from Motorsports. Like you said, the bolt and washer combo was too long, bottomed out in the snout and made a weird noise under load because it didn’t snug everything up. Pulled my hair out trying to find the noise. Make sure you use a washer and bolt that is short enough not to bottom out. You want the bolt and washer to snug everything up. Very, very important. I started a thread on the subject, but I think it was @Jeff G 78 that had the pic. -
Nissan solved the problem of driving out the woodruff key with their next generation of dampers for the 280’s. The damper was radiused in about 1/4 inch so you could easily slide the damper over the woodruff key before snugging up the damper onto the crank snout. I guess you could take your early damper to a machine shop and have them do that for peace of mind. I always put new 280Z dampers on my builds just for that reason.
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@AK260 Have you thought about notching out a spot in each blade to clear those bolts. You could dremel out a notch in each blade to clear those stickie outie bolts. That would keep you from installing a spacer so thick that it would hit the radiator. Just a thought. I didn’t install those bolts in my damper.
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Here is the fan I had to go with to clear the Super Damper....still barely cleared. Also, a picture of a set of fan spacers. I assume they are for the 280ZX’s to clear the three row dampers, but don’t have a clue if that’s correct. I guess you could easily make your own spacer out of a number of materials. Stickie outie is what I had too.....just glad it didn’t push the fan too close to the radiator....I didn’t want to go electric.Now that I look at it, I wonder if I could have symmetrically removed some of the inside corner of the fan blades to clear the stickie outie bolts?
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I had to find the bigger offset fan for my Super Damper.....I found one with factory spacers.....gave me the clearance I needed. Curious if that came from a 280ZX with 3 row? Anyone seen these spacers?
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This is exactly why the 280 damper bores were machined back far enough so you could feel the groove receive the woodfuff key. If you are off just a tiny bit, it can push the key through the oil slinger. So many ways to screw up a good motor by one mistake......what a waste! BTW Capt.....you want a tight fit on your damper.....some race dampers require up to 250lbs. of torque to install.
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https://datsunspirit.com/shop/ati-harmonic-damper-kit/
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Not sure on the numbers Jeff, but any good speed shop (Summit) will have those numbers and my guess is the bolt came with the damper. It takes a special tool to install as you can see.
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Whatever you use Jeff, make sure the crank bolt isn’t too long. I used a Nismo performance crank bolt once and it was a tad too long (for the stock damper) to pull everything up tight. Took me a while to figure that one out. Just make sure you are torquing threads and not the bolt bottoming out, or you’ll go through the same problem again. BTW, my guess is a performance machine shop can weld and machine that snout. If they can change the stroke on a stock crank, don’t know why they can’t fix the snout. Guy
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Marty.....That’s the damper that Eiji thinks works best on these engines....Ford, Chevy and Chrysler racers use em too. I’m breaking it in with SU’s then to Mikunis. HP should be around 235 at the fly...200 at the wheels. I’ll dyno and see....you know how that goes.
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Madkaw meant to say Guy did it the other way (twice). I built two motors with the F54 block P79 shaved (.080) head, swirl valves, Isky Stage III and other goodies bored .040 over with the L24 crank. Wow.....what a great set up....but probably a different feel than the L28 crank in a 24 block. Put as much cam as you can....Stage III....you won't regret it! This damper is serious.....Datsun Spirit can fix you up.
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BTW......The damper Eiji suggested will make it impossible to run a mechanical fan. I know nothing about electrical fans. Can someone lead me in the right direction regarding fans for the Z? Do I need a single or a double, a pusher or a puller....what is the best quality fan to buy? Any help would be much appreciated.
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Right Jeff...I bought two of the SFI Racing dampers a couple years back. So tight I couldn't get them started either. If you don't line a damper up perfectly, it can drive the the crank pulley key through the oil slinger. I ended up tossing them and installing brand new stock 280 Nissan dampers (still available from Nissan). If they don't fit, the manufacturer should hone them (not our responsibility) to fit the 240 and 280 cranks IMO. The Nissan 280 cranks actually hone a 1/4 inch section so you can slide the damper on over the crank key before you torque it on (very easy alignment). I won't purchase another from Motorsports until they fix the problem which is too bad, because other than fit, they looked like a well made product.
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Timing cover removal without head removal?
Diseazd replied to Careless's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Way too much trouble! You'd have to remove the distributor, the sway bar, the oil pump, the radiator, the distributor shaft, the crank damper, oil pan, alternator, get a new front seal and gaskets, and hope you don't screw up the front of the head gasket in the meantime........does that silver paint look better now? :: -
Oil pump/Distributor drive spindle won't insert all the way.
Diseazd replied to jwilliams905's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
It works with the damper and seal to keep oil from leaking. You can get to it rather easily if you think you may have put it on backwards. Pull the damper, pop out the seal and remove the slinger. If backwards, simply reinstall correctly, tap in a new seal and replace the damper. You should then be able to install the spindle easily. -
What kind of damper bolt and washer is in your damper? I used one of the Nismo damper bolt sets with the drop down washer once with a stock damper. When you torqued it up, it set down in the damper against the nose of the crank without really snugging up the crank pulley, worm gear and oil slinger. If the washer you're using isn't flat (as in one plane), this could be your problem. It results in chain noise and will drive you crazy trying to figure out where it came from.
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Nice damper Jeff......
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The later Nissan stock dampers (280's) have about a quarter inch radius (inside diameter) larger than the rest of the bore. This is very important as far as alligning the woodruff key. You have 1/4 inch to feel the key engage the groove in the damper. If not aligned perfect, it will drive the woodruff key through your oil slinger. Ask me how I know this?
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Yes, I bought 2 premium dampers from MSA.....I ended up throwing them away.....wasn't about to sell my problem to someone else. Don't use those expensive bolts on your stock damper unless you machine that drop down off the washer.
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Phillip.....I finally gave up. I bought two performance dampers and they were so tight I was afraid to torque 'em on. I had them machined and still felt uncomfortable. If you use the Nismo performance bolt, don't use it on a stock damper. The drop down on the washer bottoms out on the end of the crank, preventing everything from pulling up tight up front. Been there....done that! Regards. Guy
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Jeff....I would assume you could compare the TDC mark on a damper to a good one to see if the damper has failed. Don't know how else you could test it.
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You can still buy a 79 (early 280) damper new from Nissan......it is about the same weight as the early Z's. Seems to me they were about $150.00. The single groove performance dampers from MSA are cheaper, but they fit so damned tight that if you're not lined up just right, they can drive out the woodruff key. I would go with the 79 280 damper (the timing mark can be filed into the damper). All IMO. Guy
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Remember.....there are two adjustment nuts on the distributor to adjust timing. You may be able to get more advance by loosening the second adjustment nut. Also, if you don't trust your damper, you can pull the number 1 plug , disconnect the coil wire and turn the engine over by pushing in 4th gear until the number one piston is rising on the compression stroke. Stick a long screwdriver in the number 1 spark plug hole until it contacts the top of the piston and bring the piston to top center. Then check your timing marker to your damper.
