moonpup

There's a rubber bumper that goes there. They get knocked off fairly easily. If you don't want to replace it with the original part, I'd at least find a plug of some sort to put in there. Dog legs rust easy enough without a big hole to let water in!

Can you post a good close-up pic of one? I've got a mess of mirrors from 260's and 280's and may have what you need.

Someone did.

That's correct, except the turbo had an extra piece on the air intake end of the blower motor that curved down below the block to help draw in cooler air than what was available in the engine compartment. Just some trivial info that doesn't help us cuz we can't see that either.

I know the front bumper was different on the 73's but if the back was the same as the earlier ones, then here you go. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-NOS-OEM-Rear-Bumper-Face-Bar-Ends_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ40017QQitemZ8051653425QQrdZ1

It's the front.

Where are you located? I've got a NOS 73 bumper but it'll cost you the same as what the dealer would want. (Brand new ain't cheap)

You're right, the floats don't just suddenly go out of adjustment. But accidents happen and they might have gotten out of whack while you were checking the needle valves. Just trying to think of reasons why a float bowl would overfill and debris and adjustment were the first two obvious things to come to mind. Another obvious situation would be a compromised float that had become saturated with fuel and thus was no longer able to float but I'm sure you would have spotted that. The only other thing I can think of is the float kinking at the hinges or possibly the float slipping off one end of the rod during re-installation.

As long as you're sure that the needle assembly is debris free, then the only other thing that can be causing the float bowl to overfill would be the float itself being improperly adjusted. Just follow the instructions in your FSM on adjusting the floats and you should be ok. Tip: Use any bolt that your 14mm wrench will fit and with the float bowl lid upsidedown and level, place the head of the bolt sideways between the float lid and the float itself. Now as you lower the float on to the bolt head, at the point it just touches the bolt, the float tab should now be just touching the needle. If it doesn't, adjust the tab so that it does.

Garth, here's a pic of the one piece metal fan shroud. Just snagged it off the ebay listing for car #913. As you look at the pic, the top of the shroud is on the left. Now back to the main topic...metal fans should only be used for show.

Sorry Garth, I don't have any pics but I believe the part # was 21475-E4102. I've only seen a handfull in all my years of scouring junk yards. Akso, because they were kind of a pain to put on/take off, people tended to cut a section out of the bottom, so between that and rust, it's somewhat hard to find a nice example.

I wasn't aware that the 72 had a 2-piece shroud. If so, when did the 1-piece metal shroud end and the 2-piece begin?

The wheels look great, but I sure hope you have something besides 4 buckets holding that car up! I'd hate for someone to get hurt.

Also included is a Series 1 radio face plate and I believe the combo switch is also Series 1.

You're right, its all gotta go........to the classifieds section!

Here's something you might try....Get a couple large plastic bags that are big enough to completely encase each seat, put an odor absorbent such as charcoal/baking soda/etc. in the bag and seal tightly. Check for odor occasionally and replace odor absorbent as needed. Good Luck.

Just an added note; living in Houston with the long hot summer months, I used a marine spar clear with a high UV rating to help protect the wheel from future sun damage. Still looked great 15 yrs. later when I sold the car.

It may have had a dual purpose, but my 1972 Owners Manual states; "If you find it necessary to have yours towed, it is important that the towing rope be fastened only to hook that attach the frame, as illustrated. The rope must be routed under the bottom edge of the bumper. Admittable load of the hook is less than 2,200lb."

Don't know if this is the same scam or not. but this blue on blue 71 is way too nice for the buy it now price of $4,900. And wasn't that the same BIN on the second listing of the red one? If it's not a scam, someone needs to jumps on this! Hummm.. just noticed, Indiana plates and Calif. listing? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1971-DATSUN-240Z-BIN-4900_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQitemZ4617359145QQrdZ1

Boggus Ford in south Texas

Here's another nice item. Blue Series1 seats in Fla. Item number: 4616900634 Not exactly the color you need 26thZ, but might be close to you.

Seller has three items that are difficult to find. This, Item number: 8041914254 is a throttle control knob.( He's calling it a choke cable knob) He also has the rounded choke knob and a longtail fuse box (looks good) on his other auctions. Happy bidding.

Wouldn't someone wishing to convert their non-locking fuel lid to the locking set-up also need to fabricate the u-shaped catch located just inside the lid?

Feel free to put this in the FWIW category, but about 20 yrs. ago I spotted #200 in a Houston salvage yard. Not much left, no engine and missing the entire rear clip. If I remember correctly, it was a silver car.

Oop's.....I believe you just let a little of your own petard/agenda slip out!