Phacade

My '73 (just got the newly rebuilt L28 running in her) has a weird signal quirk. Right works fine, but left stays solid when at idle. When I give it a little gas, it blinks normally, just like the right one. Strange. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Not certain what you mean by laurel, but any Z head from an L series engine will fit on another Z block. WILL being the operative word here because you may not WANT to. Different heads are setup differently from others. The earliest Z heads (E31 I believe) are high compression heads while others are not. The correct block choice is essential as well. Why go with a L26 (2.6 liter) When a L28 (2.8 liter) is more readily available and is delivers more. If you do happen to go for the L28, and we all hope you do, I suggest a late model L28. They are more rigid inside, siamesed, and again; more readily available. Of course once you have made these choices the there is fuel delivery to worry about, carbs or fuel injection. But one thing at a time. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I dunno. All I can tell you is my '73 240z is doing something VERY similair. Its just down right uncanny, in fact. When I drive down the road I get a 'whoomp-whoomp-whoomp' sound from the rear end. The faster, the more pronounced. Of couse the rear end of my Z operated on only one gear ratio, therefore it would make more noise the faster it goes. Now from talking to Z mechanics, friends, etc, I believe the problem is the rear end itself. Its tired. I have the original R180 but am getting ready to drop in my R200 [insert full belly grunt from Tim Allen from Home Improvement here]. It has a 3:90 gear ratio and should be a definate improvement. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

After a long bit of research I have finally concluded what I believe to be the correct tire size for '70-'78 model Z's. They origianlly came with a 70 rated 14" tire, usually a P185x70x14. Of couse this varied depending on the dealer of course. I have dabbled with 15" and 16" wheels, and yes, even with 17" wheels on my 240z. Nissan designed it to be a 14" tire. To go outside of this will mess with speedometer reading, and other things as well. I have even heard it will affect braking. In any case, I now go with, and recommend, a 60 rated 14" tire. My exact size, P215x60x14, all the way around. It gives me the look I want (low profile), performance (lower side walls = better cornering). I have seen a few even go with a P235x60x14. Too wide in my opinion. Technically, it will fit. Bit it will also rub in the front under hard cornering. Try not to go lower than a 60 rated tire, however. This will, once again, throw off your speedometer, and will also increase ride harshness (and thats no fun). Brand? I went with BF Goodrich personally, although Goodyear makes a good tire, as does Pirelli. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Yes, as a matter of fact, I did. I put in a Purolator 2-4psi electric pump, 30 gallons per hour, right next to the tank. Even put a cut off switch in (he he). I even mounted a Moroso psi gauge right up next to the fuel filter so I could make sure I am getting the correct mixture. I am sure it is not fuel related, although I could use a regulator.

I know you guys are probably the most experienced Z people on this site, so I turn to you. I recently rebuilt (using all new parts) a '81 L28. I took off all the fuel injection parts and added dual SU carbs from Z therapy. I used the 280ZX electronic distributor and coil, and added Motorsports 6 into 1 headers going into straight 2" pipe all the way back. The car runs, but not well. It will not rev above 3000 rpm, unless I take off the air filter, then it will go to about 4000 rpm. It has no power (0 to 60mph takes about 2 min). The plugs look very black, and kinda wet, wetter back towards 5 and 6 cyl. It almost looks like oil or gas mixed with oil on the rim where the spark plugs go. I have set my carbs time and time again, set my ignition timing repeatedly; and still the same animal. I have had a few people tell me that this will happen if my cam timing is off. I had a friend help me with this part when we put the engine together, and since it was a new chain, he used timing mark 1 on the cam sprocket, or so he said. Beyond this, I really have no idea what to do. How do I check - fix the cam timing? How is it suppose to be setup? Any thoughts? PLease help me, I am literally at my wits end!!

Awesome, glad to hear it man. I just ordered some Ram-flows for my car as well. Hopefully I will have my beast running well soon, but mine is far more complicated than you average bear. I have a completely (did I mention hand built) rebuilt L28 from a '81 280ZX with the mating 5-speed in my ;73 with the '70 Su carbs, '81 electronic distributor; etc. It will get there eventually, but I have ALOT of bugs to work out first. Yes, the air/fuel mixture is under the carbs, it is a round wheel -w- knotchs on it. Looking down at it (although you can't see it overheard), counterclockwise should be more air, clockwise more gas. But don't take my word for it, Blow $15 bucks and buy Scott's video from Z therapy. You will thank yourself. I got his video when I bought my carbs from him. Gee, that wasn't a shamless plug at all... ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

You might try adjusting your mixture, Also, there are some tubes pointing straight up on the SU's right next to the gas hose inlet. These are breathers and if are plugged will make gas run out the front; did on mine until I adjusted it. Make sure you didnt leave any open spots on your balance tube, seal it well. You might experiment with bits of emission and see if putting them back will fix it. Do you have your cat still on the exhaust? Cut it out! ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I recently got my Z started for the first time. I have a '73 240, with an '81 L28 (F54 block and P79 head). All block work has been done and new parts installed. Basically it is a new engine. I got original SU carbs from Scott at Z therapy, original 240Z air cleaner and ZX electronic ignition. Well the distributor and coil anyway. I finally worked out all the trouble with the electronic fuel pump (Purolator 4psi, 30 gallons per hour) and put in a gauge to monitor this. So I finally start it. Really rough at first, but I follow Z therepy guide and balance my carbs, time the car. It still runs rough. It has no exhaust yet, just Motorsport 6 into 1 headers. It sounds like one of those gasoline rides at Disneyland. What can I do to smooth it out? The car feels like it is getting too much gas. When I step on it, it slows down, yet when I back off the gas it will pick up. Also the clutch disengages too quickly, is there a way to adjust this? Should I regulate the line down? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I'll have to agree and disagree with that. My flap-top carbs worked very poorly with my '73 240Z; however they made even worse boat anchors (yes, I tried). ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I have a '73 240Z project that is nearing completion (thanks largely to all the parts and advice from you all). Here is my specs so you may be able to diagnose thae problem a little easier. I have put an '81 L28 with the 5-speed in, '70 model SU carbs and intake. The car previously had a L24 and 4-speed with dual Webers when I got it. I ran poorly so I decided a new mill was in order. It previously had a mechanical fuel pump in the engine compartment and the original electric pump back by the tank. I got rid of the mechanical pump when the swap was made, and upgraded to a different electric pump (Was advised to get a Purolator 2-4psi, 30gph pump from Pep Boys, so I did). I have everything hooked up, but have no power to my pump. I checked my fuses, fine. Checked the pump via external power, fine. I checked the wires going back to the aux electric pump, which I suppose is now my primary pump, no juice. I did a continuity check, no power. I did a check on amost every wire I could trace. Nothing. I thought about just running another wire back to the pump for some power, and I am sure I could get myself running this way. But the nice people at Nissan probably engineered the car in a certain way with alot of releys so the car wouldn't explode or something in the rare case of fire or accident. Any ideas? I checked the wiring guide in the Haynes and Chiltons manual and I believe I have covered my bases. Please help!! ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Check Motorsport Auto. Should run you too much. 1-800-633-6331 ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

No, I am restoring my '73 240Z as well. Most of my avail parts are from a '81 280ZX. I do have a complete engine and tranny from the '73, minus carbs. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Is the linkage pole (for lack of a better term) next to the firewall that holds the gismo that turns the rest of the linkage rods shorter on a '73 than the '70-'72 models? Or has some idiot simply hacksawed mine? Difficult to tell. I am trying to hook up the original linkage and having alot of diffculty. Any linkage photos out there? Please? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I would check the vacume line that runs from just below the master cylinder on the master vac. It runs (or at least should) to your balance tube on your intake manifold. Mine was pretty worn and needed replaced. Have you done any mods? Not all the balance tubes have the same diameter for this vacume tube. Check it. Fluid you say? Possible you have a bad master cylinder or master vac but I doubt it. There is the possibility that brake fluid is leaking and geting hear the carbs, which I'm told WILL increase RPM. It is, after all, a combustible substance. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Okay, we have alot of 280ZX stuff; AFM, fuel injectionmanifold, the entire 280ZX minus engine, tranny, rear end. Great interior. L24 from a '73 240Z. E88 head and P30 block. Misc pieces parts. Intake manifold from a '71 240Z Lemme now what you want and email me back. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I know I posted this in the Carb section already but help is needed. I am putting my L28 from a '81 into my '73 240Z. It uses the P79 head and will be using the early round top SU carbs. I need to go with an electric pump. I need to know: Which pump; Brand, psi, gallons per hour. And do I simply regulate the line under the hood well before the carbs, or do I double regulate right before before the carbs at the "T", thereby leaving the system unhindered and avoiding possible vapor-lock? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Since my last post, I deciced to go with early SU carbs in my ongoing restoration of my '73 240Z. Yep, we got the '81 280ZX L28 going in next week. Since I'm using a P79 head, I must go with an electric fuel pump. I need to know: Which pump to get; Brand, psi, and gallons per hour. And do I simply regulate the line, or do I double regulate right before each carb (leaving the system un-hindered thus avoiding possible vapor lock)? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

How involved is it to change my steering wheel in my '73 240Z? I have a really sweet original wood steering wheel installed now. Yes I know, why woud I want to? Page 28 in the new Motorsport catalog should answer this question. I really want that Autocross D-shaped wheel. I'm such a sucker for gimmicks. Anycase, is it a tough job? What tools are required? Any suggestions? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Actually....no. I don't. I had, past tense, had a very nice 1981 280ZX that I kinda...well...munched. It sat for almost a year with great intentions of being fixed. Then I bought a 1973 240Z, but the mouse was tired in the 240Z engine. I played with it for awhile but never really figured out what was wrong with it. By this time I was going online and getting ideas of putting my '81 engine in my '73. Well it's almost done. I have very, very few parts for the '73. But lots for the '81. The complete driveline from the '81 will be used, and the complete driveline from the '73 will not. There you have it. ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

One slightly used fuel injection intake manifold. Came of a '81 280ZX. Great shape. Slightly used L24. Came out of a '73 240Z Note: no intake on her. Cames with a four speed transmission in great shape. 1981 280ZX. No engine. No drivetrain. Body in OK shape. Interior great shape. Many good parts. Custom dash liner for 1979-1981 280ZX. Black. Carpet style. Has three complete circles for guages, not the partial cover style. Fits sooo nice. Pity I cant use it in my 240Z. Cost me over $200 to have made. Misc parts from either the '81 or the '73. Make me an offer!!! ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Any straight advice on this? Will it clear the tunnel? Would I be best advised to go look for a 77-78 5-speed? Should I use the 240Z driveline or not? It will be bolted up to the '81 R200 rear end. Sorry Mike, I realize I just crossed over into two topics. Whoopsie... ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Not so much a question as an observation from other members I was wanting. I have a 1973 240Z. We are putting an '81 L28 into her, running dual Weber DGV carbs. Now from talking with a multitude of people on the internet I have come to understand the the '73 originally had two, count them, two fuel pumps; a muchanical and a manual. This was due to the flat-top Hitachi carbs that were prone to vapor lock. My new engine uses the P79 head, therefore it does not have the eccentric for the manual fuel pump on either the head housing or the cam itself. I have therefore decised that since the '73 has a backup electric fuel pump back by the tank to use it's wiring and mount a nice aftermarket pump there. My choice was a Carter. It has 6.5psi and puts out a mild 72 gallons per hour. This will (hopefully) keep the bowels from drying up in my carbs. But now I have to fix the psi problem I created. So I got a dial-type fuel pressure regualtor and a Moroso fuel pressure guage to mount in front of the carbs to set the psi and monitor it. I have been told with my Webers I needs around 4 - 4.5 psi. Is this correct? Do any of you see any problems with this or have any suggestions? ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

Okay I know I've posted this twice already but I really need help here. I am wanting to install a 4 bbl carb on my L28 powered '73 240Z. Which carb should I use? What about the linkage? The intake manifold? Any speacial instructions or modifications needed? Please help me!! ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu

I'd like to install a 4 barrell carb system into my L28 powered '73 240Z. What's involved? Which carb do you recommend? What about the linkage? The intake manifold? Any speacial modifications or instructions? Please help me!! ------------------ "Go into emptiness, strike voids, bypass his defences; hit him where he does not expect you" -Lao Tzu