hmsports

The biggest factors is cost. I've got to get two sets to race with - so I can manage tire usage and then a third set for rain tires. I'm going with the cheap steel wheels for rains - most guys do that. So, I'm looking at $1700 for two sets of Panasports and one set of steel wheels -- plus the cost for long studs and nuts -- hey, who wants to sponsor a race car :classic: Thanks again for all the help. btw - I like the look of style two also - but the panasports just make the car look fast and sexy

Try Performance Bodies at 1-800-722-4641 - they are a bit less expensive than Summit. They carry Howe at $189.95 or Griffin (my choice) for $169.95. Check out my photo album for the picture labeled '72 ITS Prepped' to see my Frankenstein hoses. Like 2Many suggests, I spent an hour at the local auto parts store in their back room and made this from two different hoses and an adapter. The bottom is a flex hose with another hose adapted together. It snakes around the alternator with the help of a metal bracket, tie wraps and safety wire. The Chevy style has the in/out ports in the right locations. Make sure to measure between your frame rails for the correct width. The radiator may be taller so it will hang down just a bit. You will have to fabricate some sort of brackets for the Griffin. I use some 1" angle welded to the bottom of the radiator support in a 'V' so the front lip at the bottom of the radiator will sit in it -- I put a 1/4" thick strip of rubber in there too. See the same photo at the top for the strip of metal I use to hold the top - place some thick foam padding (black strip in my photo) between the radiator and front rail. The hold-down strap bolts to the top of the rail.

Mr. Camouflage> Style one is alloy - style two is three piece aluminum. They do make replacement parts for style two. There is a company called Wheels America out of Texas that repairs alloy wheels -- although I personally wouldn't race on a repaired wheel. I understand they even make wheels similar to style two out of steel for about $75 that weight about 12#. I've heard different opinions on steel wheels. Stock cars use them - but some folks say they flex too much -- I'm not sure how... My brain hurts...:sleepy:

I've mentioned this header before -- Jeff Winter at Rallye/sport has a very nice 3-into-2 header that has seen many hours on the dyno to get perfect. The primaries are stepped. At about 6 inches from the head, they step up an 1/8" inch and several more times step up until they collect into the two 2-1/2" pipes. This stepping keeps any of the pulses from backing up -- this reduces back pressure. The header costs $450 but will add some HP over any other header you can find. It looks very similar to the MSA 3-into-2 header. Jeff can tell you a heck of a lot more about it - he can be reached at 303.427.0510. The trick to get the most power from the header is to run two 2-1/2" pipes from the header back to a 2-1/2" into 3" y-collector at the differential. From there, run a small flowmaster muffler and terminate with no shorter than a 9" pipe from there. This seems to be the best set up -- or so the guys who have done a lot of dyno testing say. Like 2Many mentioned, I had the problem with my intake manifold flange being thicker than my header flange. I welded some 16 gauge steel tabs to the header flange (1/4" wide by 1/2" long) to raise it to the same level so my header washers would provide consistent torque for both flanges.

I think I'm going with my first choice, number 1. Thanks to all for responding! I can get them for about $170 each and they do look awesome on a Z! XYZ> You can get the 2nd style from Charlie Clark who runs KC Raceware in Independence, MO (816-257-7305) . They are the lightest 3-piece rim you can find that is stout enough for road racing - 12lbs. He quoted me a price of about $175 per rim. Most rims like it are much more expensive. I can't remember the brand, sorry.

I appreciate all the responses - keep them coming. I've had plenty of experience with hot brakes - that's why I built my cooling ducts - they help a ton. Both wheels are appealing to me, though I've always been partial to the Panasports. The 3-piece wheels do look like they belong more on a drag or circle track car. They cost just about the same and weight the same. But I saw several sets, one on the EP-Z and two on EP-Mazda RX7s (blech - high pitched bumble bees). The 3-piece has one advantage... if it gets bent, you can replace part of it. But there is maintenance involved with the shell bolts. 2Many - thanks for pointing out the airiness of the panasports and how that would help with getting air in and out. You guys are great! Thanks, Rick

I'm looking for opinions on which of the following types of rims you think would look better on a Z racer. They are both 15x7 and weigh in at 12lbs. Style 1 Style 2 Thanks, Rick

Had to get some shots of these two GT-2 6 Cylinders Jags - full tube frame with fiberglass bodies - the red one has a solid rear axle, the black one was independent. Super fast and awesome sounding!

Just got back from Gateway today - SCCA Regional racing. 102 degrees in the shade - only two Z cars today. 280 ITS and 1970 240 EP car - kind of what mine is going to be like (except I'll be faster :classic:)

Sixth from the right - blond

Most thermostats are stamped with the temp at which they open. I think you will find that most 'standard' ones are 160-180 degrees. If I remember correctly, changing the pressure of the tank will raise the boiling point of the coolant.

I've never used sealant on any of my header gaskets and I think I remember reading against it.

I think we all agree that racing and driving crazy on the street is an incredibly stupid and dangerous thing to do. We have had at least one other thread where this point was made quite clear -- dead horse comes to mind. This being a Z site, and the Z being versatile and perfect for upgrades and performance enhancement, many of the threads are started to showcase what can and has been done to them. Many members have had Z's for years, many are new to the Z and many are new to vehicles in general. Everyone has something to teach and we all have something to learn. I'm sure nobody on this site condones that type of dangerous behavior -- please, let's keep this site open to interesting, thought provoking, awe inspiring and even laughable interaction between all our new friends that we have made around the world. Rick

I know its probably a long shot, but do your front control arms have excentric bushings? ---- Here's a few places to check measurements - quickly and easily... Take a measurement from the front control arm inner bolt heads to the same part on the back of each spindle. Both sides should have the same measurement. Use a level vertically inside the engine compartment on the strut tower to see if the driver's side is tweaked out (I know I mentioned this one before - just didn't know if you had a chance to check it) With the car on a level surface, you can measure the loaded spring height - that may give you a quick indication. Also measure from the bottom of the frame rail to the top of the control arm. ---- Just tossing out some other things... Have you checked the tension control rods to make sure both sides are set the same - I don't that that could cause any problems other than incorrect toe/caster - at least not 1.5 degrees of a camber difference I'm sure. I know there's not much chance of the control arm being bent - I'm sure it would stick out like a sore thumb if it was.

I may be interested in your Konis - what model are they?

Seeing as I was causing too much work yesterday, maybe you can save a little time if you buy one new bulb (you can always return it) and only take out the dim light. Hook up the new bulb and see how it looks.

Are the hooks different on the 71 or 72? If not, you pay shipping and you can have them off one of my cars. Rick

EScanlon, It takes a heck of a lot more to offend me - I was just kidding with my remark -- as you should know from most of my posts -- sorry, I should have added a smiley. Again, that's the great thing about this site is that there are a lot of folks with a ton of experience -- the Z is such a unique and incredible vehicle and each problem can be approached many different ways -- and there is always someone who has done it easier. I'm just venturing into a street-able Z for the first time and I've learned a lot since joining this site. I'm just trying to do my part to return the favor. Anyway, I'm smiling in St. Louis :classic:

Boy, I'm bleeding from my nose after that one...

Try swapping the lights left to right and see if the dim moves. If it does, then it's your light, otherwise a bad ground may be the cause. Also check the plug, maybe it has corrosion or gunk in there - also check that the plug itself isn't sprung and making a loose contact. Sounds like it is something up front.

Those springs are so flimsy and loose (sounds like my ex-wife) that I don't think a new set would make a difference - but you should probably check with the Z-Therapy guys for the final on that one. How much of a fluctuation do you notice? Can you describe it a bit? Does it act like a drop or a surge? I'm sure that you used a synchronizer to get them both in-sync - and not off by 98 degrees (sorry, more bad humor here - as usual). Also check that they are both set with the correct idle mixture. Maybe one carb is getting a bit more/less fuel at idle, thus causing it to surge or drop off until it gets in check again with the other one. This probably is where the cause is. Also, check that the floats are adjusted correctly - again I'm assuming a lot of this was done since you just rebuilt them - just going over some of the possible causes. Also, make sure that the needles are seated at the same height. Let me know what you find... Rick

I wish I had his tire (tyre) budget!

I thought this was the new battery powered version and that's where the charger plugs in :classic:

Check the condition of the return springs and make sure both are hooked up. As well as applying the grease as Si|v3r72 says, check for binding in any of the links. Also check the level of damper oil in your carbs - that may play into the fluctuation.

It seems that in 72 they came out with both a one volume and a two volume set. I have the single volume set and it is quite good. If you are looking to rebuild your engine, get the book titled "How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe - it is invaluable. I also have a Chiltons and a Haynes that I aquired through the years. Between the four books I have, I always find what I'm looking for.