=Enigma=

Flow looks fine to me. Not sure what that statement is based on. I'd definitely use this header. Maybe not for the price it sold at since it would need some cleaning up, ceramic coating, and a custom Y-pipe fabricatted, but it's a workable novelty and certainly period correct in my mind. Love the plaque.

We haven't seen 93 octane here in CA for many years. That's the highest I remember seeing since I started buying gasoline 24 years ago. Not sure I'd want to may for that at this point anyway. Regular unleaded (87 octane) was up at $3.45/gal at my last fill-up. That was the second time it cost me more than $50 to fill up the 15.9 gal tank in my 4runner. Maybe it's time to sell the beast.

I'm guessing that's te male side of a plug for a block heater used during winter months to keep the water in the block from freezing and cracking the block.

Unfortunately the history data on that site is not entirely accurate, at least not for the US. Point in case (pardon the pun) the 240Z did not recieve a transistorized breakerless ignition. This did not happen until the release of the 260Z in 74 as far as I am aware. Mine certainly didn't come with it.

So did you check under the hood before paying up and driving home or not? You've got some conflicting statements here and I'm starting to wonder if this story is on the up and up.

Somehow I doubt this is the case. All the L6 blocks are the same. Just because the steering wheel is on a different side doesn't mean everything is. I know for a fact that the intake and exhaust are on the same side, so why would the marking on the block be any different?

That sounds more like the price for calipers for a 2wd 4 cylinder equipped pickup.

I have no idea what the stray wire is for but I belive the metal cylinder is used to suppress electrical noise generated by the charging and discharging of the coil which can result in unwanted static or noise when listening to the radio.

Wouldn't the diff sping the wrong direction or at the very least wouldn't the gears make contact on the wrong side of the teeth? I would assume that you would at the very least have to switch out the ring and pinion gears, is that wrong?

I believe so. After looking at the two parts I have, one is a solid steel slug, and the other is two plates welded together. They're both the same size and relative weight (2.5-3.0 lbs) as far as I can tell. The solid one is the original part from my original 73, and the other came off a 73 in a JY that somone had done an R200 swap on, which included a 280Z diff member so I can't say for sure what year the latter came from, or if it was fabricated.

Nothing a little bit more fiberglass and bondo wouldn't cure? jk

Wow, deep thought there. Guess we needed two threads in the same forum to cover this topic.....

Easy there matey, them are my parts you be eye ballin' thar.... aaarrrgggg!. jk

LMFAO!!!! You're killing me Stephen!

Funny, not entirely accurate, but funny. They certainly help make the whole aging carb thing a lot less painless to deal with. Definitely recommended. Be sure to get their video, whether or not you decide to get them completely rebuilt.

What the hell? Are you running without an air cleaner or something? How did that stuff get in there in there first place? That's what I'd be asking myself as well as the panel beaters.

Unless you can find one locally in a junk yard or can live without it, you're better off cutting up some 1/4 plate and stacking it to the height/weight you want. I actually have a spare one and would be happy to part with it, but it's approx 3 lbs. US of solid steel. I'm unsure what it would cost to ship to you from here. Here's a pic. I'll take measurements tomorrow in case you want to mfg your own.

That's not going to help and could even hurt performance depending on the engine size and the size of the existing exhaust piping. Somehow I don;t think having the bumper in place makes all that much difference in the equation anyway. Someone please correct me if that assumption is incorrect. I think addressing the leaks, extending the pipe, or adding a spoiler are the only real solutions here.

I found the following article on interior refinishing by searching on Google. http://www.rangerpowersports.com/tech/?p=119 You could also look for some upholstery dye. A good upholstery shop that also retails products should carry this sort of thing. Hard to say what the color choice might be....

I tried ordering one from them several weeks ago and it was out of stock or NLA. Looking at their latest catalog, there is no listing for anything between 7/71-74. Let me know if you find a source. I'll do the same.

That a very interesting hood modification. Looks like it has been extended down to fill the gap between the original hood line and the bumper. I can't quite see what was done below but this may have been an attempt to address the airflow issues up front.

Good luck with that. I saw an add with a few misc butterscotch interior panels on craigslist a while back but don't see the add anymore. I'm looking for the rear most left and right panels to replace the ones the PO butchered to add speakers. Let me know if you come across anything. I'll do the same. I don't need the parts ou are looking for so I"ll let you know if I run across anything interesting.

Check all fasteners and bushings associated with the diff (front diff mount, moustache bar), transverse link, and half-shafts. Odds are you have a bad diff mount isolator or moustach bar bushings, but it could also be a bad u-joint. tha only way to know for sure is to check them all. Look for rust around the end caps on the u-joints. If you find some, replace the joint. There a lots of threads on this topic so do a search on "clunk" or "thump".

Looking good man. You didn't waste any time ripping into her. Man that firewall issue is an ugly one. I suggest you get that purty steering wheel out of there before it gets fracked up.

Nice breakdown there Carl. That was about what I ended up with doing my "by the gut" estimation. Nice to see it backed up with some real figures.