EricB

Really Royce? buttonwillow earlier this month? Darn - i was supposed to go to that one..... -e

Evidemment je souhaite aussi le bonjour a Fred de La Rochelle (tres jolie ville d'ailleurs). Und also einen "Halo" für Herr Doehring (ich wahr in München gebohren aber mein Deutsch ist ein bissien schlecht - enschuligung.) -e

Hey Rodd, Alan, and Guus, (and anyone else?) Just so you guys know there is some interest from the states as regards this thread - I can think of at least two of us for sure... then again I am a displaced French citizen and my friend is of Dutch decent - so maybe we are just another bunch of Euros too then, eh? If we haven't contributed it is probably because we are probably not quite as versed on the matter as you all... -e

In short: hi-comp, fuel injected, MOTEC-controlled, individual throttle bodies, crank fired ignition, cast AL oil pan..... etc..... sick! http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~satotats/zhp/zgazou/catalog.htm if you hit the back button at the bottom of his page you can go through the whole building up ("makeing") of his Z car.... sheesh... -e

I've got a brand new set of 16 Nismo extended (60mm) wheel studs that I purchased from www.nismoparts.com for $7.20 each for a total of $115.20 Turns out that I do not need them after all. Does any one want to buy them off of me? -e

oops sorru about that... the url should have read www.classicdatsun.com BTW it was $150/set of 4 And they also have the EXACT replica of the Japanese Fairlady 432's rear wing too... -e

www.calssicdatsun.com located in Vista, CA (between Los Angeles and San Diego off the I5) - some of the BEST fiberglass quality stuff I have ever seen. -e

No that's not what I meant.... The OEM Fairlady headlight covers are clear of course but then have a chrome metal surrounding trim (whereas the Motorsport ones have nothing, just the three bolts showing that hold them in place).... -e

There was a british racing green one parked across the street from Motorsport right around mid-block just before the stage. It had gunmetal overfenders and (in the back) 16x9 RS Watanabe wheels, chrome fender mirrors and OEM Nissan headlight covers.... Anyone know who that is? Is he/she here? Better yet has anyone ever seen those headlight covers for sale here stateside? Thanks, -e

Anyone recommend a place to get a set of new jets for my triple DCOE40's? Preferably in the SoCal area, but I guess I'll do mail/internet order if I have to. Thanks, -e

Am I the only one to have this? the belt is new - it's properly tightened - the smog pump and its belt has been removed and yet whenever the weather gets hot and I step on it the think gets loud as heck. Make it extra tight because the smog pump isn't pulling on it the other way??? other tricks/solutions? -e

You could put an S20 4 valve cylinder head on your L24 but that would set you back $15K - The old cross flow rally heads? no idea how much those are as those are even more rare.... -e

FYI: I just came back from the source and it is NOT true. Japanese tail lights are still available in japan at NORMAL retail prices of roughly $170-200each. What's the difference? The added parking light picture above (between the top two bulbs) and the orange lens for the turn signal - the US one is red, remember? As for our headlights, they are 7" round. It would be very easy to get some 7" round Hella H4 lamps with removable bulbs and substitute the bulbs with any H4 HID ones provided you also got the matching igniters and voltage converters. The only disadvantage: wiring in an extra relay so the Nissan wiring doesn't melt, and the loss of your high beam.... an HiD bulb can only do low - beams.... -e

ooooooohhhh that's vic sias' car?!?!!!!!! ohhh.... yes I remember Vic from the NewDimensions days... -e

coil was changed distributor was changed resistors were changed sparkplug wires were changed battery is fine and yet there's still no spark....

CORRECTION!!!! The picture above is of the back of the Japanese tail light, the one below in this post is the US one.... Sorry....

The first pic I am uploading in this message is the back of my US tail light. There's four bulbs there, starting from top left corner here are the wire colors: Bulb 1: Grn/Wht, Grn, Blk Bulb 2: (top right): Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 3: (bottom right): Red/Blk, Blk Bulb 4: (bottom left): Grn, Blk In the reply I am going to post the pic of the backside of a Japanese tail light. It is wired differently and has an extra (Parking) light in the top row where the US tail light has a plug stamped with the letter "P". So five bulbs total and starting from top left corner here are the wire colors: Bulb 1: Grn/Yel, Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 2: (parking): Grn/Blu, Blk Bulb 3: Grn/Yel, Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 4: Red/Blk, Blk Bulb 5: Grn, Blk So, in other words the wiring for the reverse lights is the same between them and us. So is the bottom left bulb. The top three are different. On the Japanese lights I was thinking of wiring the positive (Grn/Blu) wire of the Japanese parking light to the positive wire of the rear sidemarkers. Now what about that extra Grn/Yel wire for the top two Japanese bulbs - Does anybody have an idea?

'72 240Z w/roundtop SUs brand new rebuilt engine Carbs just synch'ed and tuned. Yesterday afternoon idle becomes a bit erratic (jumps down - wants to die). No other problem. After dinner go for a drive and car dies at the light. First guess: out of gas - added a couple gallons - no start Pushed to gas station checked wiring, distributor, fuses, spark plug wires - nothing's out of whack... car won't start though. starter does turn battery voltage is still (somewhat) there lights, horn, etc works. ideas? bad coil? good luck finding one on a sunday in Los ANgeles, right?