EricB

thanks for all your replies guys.... i'll answer all as best and concisely as i can. i'll first check the condition of the set of isolators I got before i order more - incidentally it is from pierce that all my rebuild parts came from.... ben9090 sure i can check timing on it again to be sure... alan the fuel rail that came with the triples was steel as per stock but of course with three outlets, i don't think it was the nismo unit you mention because it does have a fuel return end as the stock SU fuel rail does. also alan: yes the spark plugs are in the correct order - i did not remove them during the install and yes i did take them apart myself, clean every item i could get my hands on with fuel/carb cleaner before re-assembling... i tried to make some progress with the choke cover/starter devices but didn't get very far...AND since I found nothing specific about them in my literature I didn't bother with them all that much... guess I'll go right back to them then.... PS: If all else fails, does any one recommend a Weber go-to person/shop in the LosAngeles area I could take them to for a more qualified opinion then my own? -e

this is the last post for a while (i promise) as i have to go to a wedding this afternoon.... Mike to answer your other question, the starter spins the engine freely but the engine gives no sign of wanting to start - it doesn't stumble and die at all.... it just doesn't start period. PS: out of the blue question: do triples need stronger than stock spark to work? do i need to invest in an aftermarket ignition??? I know it is RECOMMENDED but do I NEED it to run ?? -e

Another thing.... look at the 4th picture down... go straight back (towards the valve cover) from where the jets are on any of the three carburettors... see that lever that is poking up and to the right (ie towards firewall) it looks like it should have a wire?? or something going through it which would then pull it forward (towards the radiator)... lemme see my weber exxploded view.... brb.... oh yeah it's called the choke cover.... :stupid: is that supposed to be hooked up? how? they are REALLY hard to move.... should they move freely? should they be moved towards the radiator (ie forward) for the car to start? why did I think webers did not need chokes????? How do you hook them up?? i know, I know.... lots of questions..... -e

Phred... By "isolator o=ring" do you mean a plastic spacer with a rubber ring washer on either side? yeah they came in the box of used parts but I do not have them on... i just have a paper weber gasket between each carb and the cannon manifold.... The carbs are held to the manifold by 12mm nuts with funky spring looking washers - not the usual split locking ones - I thought that would be enough? Does the fuel level look correct? Mike - like I said the only two wires I have unplugged are the backfire valve and the other valve pictured above (emissions?) All jets are brand new and if I pump the accel pedal too much i get a little dribble out of the velocity stack on carb #2 and carb #3 so gas is making its way out of the accel pump/jets... I have checked out that the butterflies open all the way with the gas pedal pressed all the way down and that it closes all the way with the pedal depressed.... should i be feathering the throttle at all when trying to start the car with triples?? I'll pull each sparkplug and look at it - last time I did - 2 weeks ago - they were all in perfect shape (they're NGKs not that it matters).... New fuel filter too I've installed. Oh and the only Weber book I have is the Speedpro Weber DCOE/Dell'Orto DHLA one - and the only thing they tell me about starting is to back out the idle mixture screws 1 and 1/4 turns from fully seated which I have also done... And yes this is my first ever set of Webers... -e

here's pic 4

here's pic 3

here's pic 2

I've checked for spark by arcing one of the spark plug wires to the shock tower bolts - that works fine. I've checked for fuel - pulled off all three weber dcoe 40 covers and looked inside and the fuel level is identical in all three and pictured below. I've tried to start the car while pumping gas and it overflowed a bit, leaking a couple drops out from where air horn goes into carb body - let it sit and tried and again and did not work. starter is cranking over normally engine is turning because i do hear air exiting out of my header (yes I am running only header for right now). I had the full '73 flat top su shenanigans on there up until last night when I yanked them off.... the only two wires that were plugged up then but no longer are now are the backfire valve and the XXX??? valve (see pic below also...) Any clues? Does it just take a long time??? All main jets, idle jets, pump jets, accelerator/discharge valve, needle valve, and matching gaskets are brand new - as for size of each item I went with what Alan (HS30-H) recommended on my totally stock L24.... I don't remember all the sizes by heart but I can sure look them up and post if needs be.... Clues? Here come the pics:

they are not new - they are off of my Z parts car ( a '72) - I can probably dig up some pics of them.... The ebay high bid which I never received a check for was for $50 + s/h -e

The outer shift boot - ie the genuine pleather piece.... how much? how about how much i paid for them from MSA ie their retail?? I'll pay for USPS 3day priority to get them to you?? -e

You are correct it does not shake under braking - while heavily scored (yes I am in need of a new set of front rotors) they are not warped (at least not yet... I am with you in agreeing that it probably is wheel bearings and or possibly ball joints as well. I guess I could easily also replace the tie rod ends at the same time too.... I could swap wheels front to back except for a width difference - the rears are 8.5" the fronts are 7" - yeah I know I know it's only to determine wherein the problem lies but that sure would be funny looking Thanks boss, -e

i guess that begs the question who is currently selling adj sway bars for the Z? -e

thank you! -e

I've got a spare set of black trim tail light surrounds - you know the black painted metal pieces that are riveted in the back of our cars and surround each tail light? I do not have the matching piece which goes behind the license plate though. I put them on ebay sometime ago and the high bidder was apparently one of the deadbeat variety as he never mailed payment so if no one wants them by next wednesday here I will put them back on ebay. Thanks, -e

I picked up a set of brand new shift and hand brake boots from MSA 2 days ago and have already decided not to use them. If no one wants them from here I will put them on ebay by middle of next week I guess. -e

I picked my fender mirrors up from Aerodyne Industries in the city of Westminster (SoCal, CA). There they cost $360 for the set - when I was in Japan last month I checked retail on them and it came out to almost exactly the same price so they aren't making a fortune from selling them. They have a website - can't think of the url but do a search for them on google and they will turn up. Good people to buy Japanese parts from but I have heard scary stories about having your car worked on there though ... FYI -e

Anyone here have the MSA Twice Pipes exhaust on their car? can you tell me what diameter the piping is before it hits the glasspack mufflers? Thanks, -e

I emailed the folks at arizonazcar.com about getting the primary and secondary diameters for their Zcar 6-1 equal length header and so far have yet to get a reply - it's been like 2 weeks. Does anyone have this data they can share with me? (Am wondering if it is worth keeping the non-equal length 3-2-1 header I have right now.)

I've swapped out the steering rack bushings to poly, I've swapped out the steering coupler to poly, and I've also put in the MSA T/C kit. The wheels currently on the Z I installed 2mo ago I of course had them balanced. As an old good habit I duct taped over the wheel weights so they don't fall off. I've checked & all are still firmly in place. What's been happening is this: at medium speed (40-55mph) and in medium L and R corners (the steering wheel is turned 20-30degrees from its straight ahead position) I am getting a very noticeable vibration. It isn't really really bad but you also could not go without noticing it. I get just about no vibration at all when going straight ahead or when doing sharper turns at speed. I believe that at least my RF shock is dying or already dead. I wouldn't be surprised if the other 3 were equally bad?... I also suspect the still OEM bushing on the T/C rod which ****s on the firewall side of the T/C rod bracket - ie the one that is not included in the T/C rod bushing kits.... Any ideas? Thanks, -e

This is more of an FYI than a question but I did think it worthy to mention: I swapped out my stock 180F thermostat along with a brand new thermostat upper and lower housing in the Z yesterday. The new thermostat I put in is rated at 160F. As a result my temp needle which used to roam between the "M" and "P" of our temp guage during these past few weeks of SoCal 90F heat now is locked and will not move from between the "T" and "E". I am surprised that a 20F difference in thermostat temperature would make that big of a difference in our temp guage but then again seeing just how poor the rest of Nissan wiring is on our cars... who knows, right? :stupid: -e

Rolf, I just sent you the Excel spreadsheet in 97/98 format - if it does not open correctly let me know and I will try a different format. I just read your post above about asking me to add the 73-81 data... let me see if i can do that right now..... if it works out i will send you a newer spreadsheet with all the info -e

Doering, I have already put your data up until 1972 in an Excel format so there's no need to repeat the process.... Shall I mail it to you? -e

I am going to build my own diff cooler setup, I was just wondering what some of the people here would recommend as a correct gal per min. rate for the corresponding oil pump. Thanks. -e

Whether it actually bolts right up that I don't know - I could easily measure it for you in any specific dimension that you might require to be able to determine if it will work for you or not.... -e

The 3.36 open diff rear end that came with my car had it. The 4.11 open diff rear end I have on the car has it too. What am I talking about? I am talking about the type of open diff where the halfshaft ends actually attach to it by way of one long (5") 10mm sized bolts for each halfshaft end. To get at them you actually have to separate the rest of the halfshaft from the end. Ok so everybody is following up to now right? Now my 4.375 open diff rear and the Nissan Comp LSD I just got in the mail from half way across the world apparently utilize different ends for the halfshafts. They are different in the sense that they are held in there by way of a circlip, so the halfshaft end should have a groove cut in for the circlip to snap into. My question is where do I get those halfshaft ends to use with my halfshafts???? OR should I take my halfshaft ends to my trusty machinist and have him cut a groove in the end of them so that they will snap into place? The number of teeth between my spare set of ends and the LSD is the same.... Thanks all. -e