DougN

+1 - I had a fiberglass one on my Z for a few months - until I hit a parking lot concrete curb piece and it messed up my valance (and cracked the fiberglass), so had the valance repaired and tossed the spook.

Congrats on getting your Z running! Now that the hard part is almost over, nothing to do but drive

If you are referring to the dust shields, when you covert to the Toyota brake calipers the dust covers will no longer fit. I've had them off for a couple of years now with no issues.

As our Z's are not German, why put a German-style (EU style actually) plate on them? Why not get a Japanese plate and put it on the front?

I can't see your photos - are you uploading them to the site, or just pasting links to some photo storage site?

I would not give up so easily. If the car just needs paint, that can be done in a week. When they actually work on the car, it goes pretty quick. However, if you really don't want your car back...

wtg necroposter...

I had the dealer installed A/C system in my car, and swapped out the old York compressor for the new compressor that MSA sells. It is mounted on the lower drivers side of the engine compared to the upper passenger side of the York unit. Lines now run along the drivers side of the engine, over the transmission, and through the firewall. Also changed over to R134. I have an aux fan on the front of the AC condenser (the part in front of the radiator) that I can turn on when it gets hot to help airflow in traffic. I also have the Honda blower motor "upgrade". End result is that the AC works well here in GA (need to turn it off sometimes) except for the hottest days (95+) when it works ok. It is not the same as a modern AC, but I am happy with it. Install still looks like the dealer installed system from everywhere but under the hood. The Honda blower motor seems to work well, but it does seem that on high there is too much air for the ducting design as I don't notice a huge difference between med and high, just more noise. Hope this helps with your decision!

I had the dealer installed A/C system in my car, and swapped out the old York compressor for the new compressor that MSA sells. It is mounted on the lower drivers side of the engine compared to the upper passenger side of the York unit. Lines now run along the drivers side of the engine, over the transmission, and through the firewall. Also changed over to R134. I have an aux fan on the front of the AC condenser (the part in front of the radiator) that I can turn on when it gets hot to help airflow in traffic. I also have the Honda blower motor "upgrade". End result is that the AC works well here in GA (need to turn it off sometimes) except for the hottest days (95+) when it works ok. It is not the same as a modern AC, but I am happy with it. Install still looks like the dealer installed system from everywhere but under the hood. The Honda blower motor seems to work well, but it does seem that on high there is too much air for the ducting design as I don't notice a huge difference between med and high, just more noise. Hope this helps with your decision!

Note that eBay has just changed this policy (takes effect sometime soon), and now they will be charging final value fees on both item cost and shipping.

+1 - nothing like the sound of a Merlin going over

You have a lot of slapping to do then, as I am sure that Carl B. can confirm that there have been quite a few exceptional 240's that have sold for north of 38K. I can think of well over a dozen that I personally saw that went in that range or higher...

So Sandra Bullock contributed as much ($1M) to Japan as Nissan...

HealeyZ, you're just used to those ridiculous Healey prices Rich - that car would be worth every penny, if only it was not the same color as the stuff in my son's diaper

Let's see: 1968 Chevy Impala 1970 GMC Truck 1977 Monte Carlo 1974 Oldsmobile Omega 197X Mazda R100 Coupe (in Japan) 1977 Toyota Celica (in Japan) 1973 VW Bug 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1979 MG Midget (in England) 1989 Celica GT Convertible* 1976 Toyota Corolla (winter rat) 1992 Honda Accord 1995 Honda Accord* 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro* 1966 MGB** 1973 Datsun 240Z** 1972 Datsun 240Z 2010 BMW E93* ** *bought new **still have these That seems to be it, not counting the wife's cars...

I just changed one of mine out recently and had to do it the same way... Fortunately you dont have to change them very often

Will that thing scan an object and turn the scan into a CAD drawing?

I changed out the passenger side headlight this past weekend, as I either took a rock from all the crap they put on the roads here when we had a couple of inches of snow - or I took a shoe/boot to the headlight when I was parked somewhere. Oddly, even though the glass was broke, the light itself still worked. Either way, job was easier than I expected - fortunately the screws that hold the light in the back were not rusted or stuck

Yes, with enough money, knowledge and time, anything is possible

I agree, and indeed, we do welcome new members, even ones with significant Z knowledge to contribute ;-) That being said, I would just caution the zcar.com refugees to remember that this is ClassicZCars.com, not zcar.com2

Congrats on your new Z! What are your plans for it?

Just to be clear Arne, just one offer (from the owner of a Nissan Dealership), not multiple offers I would also describe my car as a very nice #3 like yours.

Might be an east coast thing, but probably more a case of finding the right buyer. I am sure Carl B can relate many stories of Z's exchanging hands for over $50K or $75K.

Hey, don't be hating on the '73's! If you swap out the carbs and bumpers, you get everything you get from a 71/72, PLUS the benefit of the lighted heater control panel. So, other than a low VIN car, the '73 should be the most sought after! ;-) And yes, I have been offered close to that amount Hemmings put out for the article for my Z. I am guessing they are putting out that value based on an average of what we all have are declared value policies insured for.

Andrew - Have you put together your own comps to get a value for your car? When you appeal your outragous property tax assessment, that is usually the first step - go out and get at least 10+ comps showing what you think is a fair value (or even more if possible) and send them to the insurance guy. If you do his work for him, perhaps you can get a fair amount.