CanTechZ

Battery hold down bracket screw, I believe

Hey Bart, here is a higher res pdf file of the chassis dimension from my 1972 FSM. Good luck with the repairs. Mike 240Z Chassis Dimensions - Source 1972 FSM Dated 10SEP71.pdf

Are you looking for the FSM chassis drawing like the one in post 3 of this thread? http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/33933-chassis-and-body-dimensions-for-us-240z-available/?hl=%2Bchassis+%2Bdimensions If need a higher resolution drawing PM me and I could do a high res scan from my printed FSM and send it to you Mike

While searching for something else I found this 510 FSM: http://datsun510.com/manuals/Service_Manual_510_1600_1973.pdf They have a lot of old Datsun content, beware some files are very large: http://datsun510.com/manuals/

I just looked at mine, and it has only one washer between the spring and the clevis. I just noticed that the picture you posted has dual points, my setup is original with single points. I have no idea if this makes a difference.

I measured M3 on mine. I think the pitch is 0.5mm, it's hard to get a thread pitch gage under there. Have you tried chasing the threads? Mike

At the machine shop I previously worked for, we used Precision Twist Drill (PTD) and Dormer among others. Try checking the sales flyer at KBC tools for deals. Be aware that we found the KBC house brand drills were quite low quality, you get what you pay for. http://www.kbctools.ca/products/CUTTING%20TOOLS/DRILLS/JOBBERS%20DRILLS/JOBBERS%20DRILL%20SETS.aspx HTH Mike

Here's one with the mother, so proud.

Clips and Fasteners has quite a good selection of re-useable push type retainers for many hole sizes including 1/4" with various head sizes. Maybe one might work. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainers_At_Clipsandfasteners_com_s/154.htm HTH Mike Looking more closely the 1/4" hole size retainers likely won't work, My thinking was that the two prong retainers might go into a 5mm hole. After another search I did find these: http://www.lawsonproducts.ca/Nissan/Body-Hardware/Automotive/AT100100.lpc Set search parameter to 5mm hole size.

You're welcome. To bad about the missing info on the glass, I didn't see it either. I think that the sedan and wagon both used the same instrument panel, so this might be what you are looking for: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index/Electrical/InstrumentMeter/FromOct69/tabid/561/Default.aspx

Here you go.... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index.aspx Good luck with the 510 Here's another great 510 resource: http://www.the510realm.com/ Cheers Mike

Excellent write up, also wondering if you could use the rocker arm pin from an F10 pump to replace a worn pin on a 240Z pump? Mine has started to leak oil in that area.

Nice work so far, glad to hear you are close to the milestone of starting your car. In looking at your engine pictures I might be wrong but it looks like your sparkplug wires might be OEM originals, can you read the Yazaki manufacturer's name and the matching year of manufacture on them? If so they might be quite rare.

Did you try downloading the pdf attachment in post 27. It still worked when I just tried. HTH Mike

Just wondering where the 104 octane number for an E31 head came from. Here is a discussion from last year about this subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49259-best-octane-for-e31-head/?hl=%26quot%3Boctane+rating%26quot%3B#entry448124

Nice subtle change, I like the new stance. Mine sits about 1/2" lower in the rear when measuring the distance from ground up to the underside of the fender lip at center. With this set up the body line near your body side molding is quite parallel with the ground.

Careful scraping of the undercoating to expose most of the back and the retaining studs, both broke off when trying to undo the rusted nuts even after multiple applications of penetrating oil. After removing the turn signals, more careful scraping of the hard undercoating with various small scrapers and picks. Then I cleaned off the residue with Dupli-Color wax & grease remover followed by a wash/rinse with soap and water. A light sanding was required for some stubborn areas.

Just finished refreshing my front turn signals. The LH one was totally hidden by undercoating on the inside. Before: After:

Or This.... Here it is on "How It's Made Dream Cars"

I measured 770mm ctr to crt of inside bolts, holding tape straight across. This is on my '70 240Z.

Here is a parts micro fiche sheet showing the description for the front bumper p/n 62650-E4103 showing (less rubber hole). Those sill plates with "Datsun" pressed in are also hard to find.

I'm not sure about Surrey Nissan but I believe he has been Parts Manager at Jonker Nissan since the early 90's

Here is a useful link for part numbers: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/FuelTank/FromJul-76/tabid/1622/Default.aspx

Thanks for the valuable contacts, hopefully some of their vast knowledge will be passed down to their younger co-workers. Len's last name is Marshall and he also is a long time Parts Manager, old fart (no offence Len in case you see this )

And here's another one from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Datsun-Nissan-22162-E3001-Dana-39-3213-Distributor-Cap-Fairlady-240Z-Z-Car-/380871139691 The symbol on this Dana cap is the same as on Arne's rotor in post #16 in the thread linked by 26th-z It seems that period looking distributor caps are not hard to find, I think I will save mine if only because it has a Hitachi Logo.