Arne

Good find, @Mike . I had found the wiring diagrams and re-attached them here, but hadn't found the supporting pictures. I'll pull those over to this doc and insert them as well.

@Mike - I don't know if I still have those images myself. Let me dig around a bit.

Quite well, Marty. I don't want to hijack Terje's thread on this excellent adventure, but I'm back down to a single Porsche again, after dragging home a needy 944 a few months back, which I fixed up to get back on the road and sold. I recently retired, so I have a bit more time to play in the garage now.

Arne approves....

Tomo, there is no one supplier for this stuff. The stuff was dealer installed, and just like custom wheels, different dealers used different suppliers. Finding the exact match for what you have on the car will be a bit of a needle/haystack proposition, and that's assuming that your particular style of needle is still in production at all. It's just going to be a matter of searching out the current available sources and see if they match yours. Good luck.

People have been saying that for more than 20 years. The 240Z is a perennial top pick on all the magazine's and analyst's "buy one now while they're still cheap" lists. All sorts of big projections, and the breakthrough never has happened... yet. Maybe it's really going to happen now. The total nuttiness in the early 911 world has been said to be dragging up not just other Porsches, but also other contemporary sports cars, of which the 240Z is the poster child.Then again, I'm not sure that wild appreciation in value would be a good thing. The possibility of early 911 ownership has been wiped out for all but people of substantial means. Even 911T's (pre-74) are commanding $20k or more for total rust buckets. You don't even want to know what it costs to buy a totally rust-consumed pre-74 911S these days. I don't think what we see there is particularly good for the hobby, even if it does mean that my car has increased in value by at least 40% in less than 3 years. Good for me personally, but the hobby as a whole? I don't think so.

Which means it could be either way, depending on whether it is early or late.

If the bezels are NLA, I'd recommend re-keying the ignition to match the doors (as I'm assuming that door locks are still available in matching pairs, possibly a bad assumption). The hatch may have to be different.

Yes. The ignition is the easiest, followed by the doors. Any competent locksmith should be able to do it, I even borrowed a wafer set and did an ignition switch myself. Not hard with the correct parts. I'd recommend leaving the hatch lock as is and keying the others to match it.

Big intakes on the L24 will likely require fly-cutting the block, unless it has already been bored .040" over. Save it for an L28.

I'm not certain that the 3-in1 oil is a true 20. It always seemed thin to me. I used 20 wt. motorcycle fork oil in mine.

The only important part here is the coil. If your coil is hotter than stock, you can use the wide-gap version of the stock plugs. I ran BP6ES-11 with Pertronix and a Crane PS-20 coil.

I believe one could create a form that feeds a spreadsheet in Google Apps. Might be able to keep the actual spreadsheet locked, only accepting changes from the form.

Don't rule out ignition problems, especially the coil and any condensers that are on the distributor or coil. I'd actually test that first. Much simpler.

As a guess, I'd say yes, it used to be an automatic. Post a picture of the left front fender well in the engine compartment, showing the ignition coil and the area below and in front of the coil. That should pin it down for certain.

Fine Wires were all the same, cross-laced but 100% tubeless as the spoke ends go into a welded ring on the rim, not through the rim itself. It was a completely different type of wire wheel, in it's day. Not on the Appliance wheels, no. Much sturdier than the old Brit wheels. (And I've owned both.)One last thing to note - those wheels are really heavy.

No affect on offset. The inner "nuts" are the threaded things you see in picture with the offset hole in the end. The outer nuts are large, thimble-like nuts. There should be one large diameter washer for each inner/outer pair. Inner nuts had ⅞" flats at the base, the outer nuts were 15/16" and on the wire wheels needed a VERY thin wall socket. Was generally best to carry the actual Appliance wrench set, few other wrenches would fit. The Rotolug wheels typically had a base bolt circle that was midway between the common circles used for that size wheel. For 4 lug wheels, that was typically 4¼" (108mm), and 5 lugs normally had 4¾" (120.7mm). The eccentric action of the inner "nuts" could adjust the circle by ¼" either way. The 14" Fine Wire wheels were a slight exception. Due to the size of the center hub, the base circle on those was 4¾" for both 4 and 5 lug versions. The use was simple - thread one inner nut on each lug. Thread it all the way on the stud until it bottomed against the hub, and then back it off slightly to index it for the desired circle. In the case of the Fine Wires and your Z, you would back off each inner nut until the arrow that indicated the fat part of the eccentric pointed straight out, away from the hub. Then slide on the wheel, washers and thread down the outer nuts. Converting to the later kits with eccentric washers is a good idea in multiple ways. Simpler, cleaner and easier to use.

None of those wheels were officially imported into the USA, which is where most of this forum's members live. You will probably need to try to search in Japan for these, or possibly Australia.

I agree with Mark. If you are going to ditch the injection, you will want to use the '70-72 carbs. The difference is not just performance, but drivability. Unless they are extensively re-worked, the '73-74 carbs are prone to all manner of drivability problems - lean surge, hard hot start, vapor lock, etc. I wrote a tech article on this topic years ago, but it should still be current for the most part. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/21574-fuel-injection-su-carb-swap.html

Agreed, please post a picture. I am familiar with most of the makers, if we can ID the manufacturer we should be able to come up with something that will fit.

If the tail light finisher in the picture has been painted with that paint, it's too glossy. I wouldn't use it.

I ran a Crane PS20 on mine, after my hardly used Flamethrower died.

5" was new for '72. Before that they were 4½" wide.

You could look at the write up I did years ago on a similar vintage auto-to-4-speed swap. Imagine doing the opposite. The article also outlines some of the differences between the auto and manual body shells. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/21274-240z-260z-280z-auto-4-5-speed-swap.html In the end, unless the car is a really nice time warp car that might benefit in value to being 100% original, I doubt that I'd go to the effort to swap back to the auto. The automatics don't totally ruin the car, the little six has enough torque to make it work. But the effort to go back might be considerable, and parts to do so could be hard to come by.

8/70 would have been a very early automatic. What changes do you see that make you think it was converted?