Arne

I'm preparing to put carbs back on my 240Z (maybe this weekend) and have looked into the water passages thing first hand. My round-tops have no water passages. My manifold is from a '72 and does have water passages. I don't know about the flat-top passages, but on the '72 manifold if the non-water carbs are bolted up, the water will not flow. The manifold passages need the carb passages to complete the circuit. So no water will be connected on mine. That won't be a problem for my climate. But the round-top install on a '73 would be far simpler if the carbs going on did have the water passages.

On 240Z's, the brake lights go from the brake light switch through the turn signal switch which is where it is split for left and right sides. Since only one side is affected, that is the most likely place to look for your problem.

Years ago when I worked in tires, it was company policy to ALWAYS remove the stickers before the car left the lot. We didn't want our customers' cars looking goofy for the first few miles..

Not a bad idea. I recall installing a fair number of the factory harder rubber rack mounts back when I used to do suspension and brake work for a living. Much nicer steering feel. Never understood why Nissan gave the US models such soft rack mounts.

A good body man (or woman) should be able to weld that up so that it is every bit as strong as an original. But at what cost? How many hours of labor will it take? Since that hatch is the non-vented one, a good used hatch shouldn't be too hard to find affordably. Might be cheaper to replace than to repair.

So Mark, what is wrong with the modified stock air cleaner you are now using? Changing to ITG or K&N's isn't going to make much difference over what you have now? If it were me, I'd probably want to rework the A/C so that I could use the stock air box. Every other A/C I've seen on Z's mounted the compressor on the opposite side of the engine.

So which do you have?

Hmm, I know that round-tops will bolt onto the flat-top manifolds, as there are people who claim that the flat-top manifolds are better for horsepower than the round-top manifolds. So the only reason I can see for having to change the manifolds would be the above mentioned water passages. And that can be worked around if you don't need the warm-up assistance.

This is the simplest way. If the front turn signals are below the bumper, it is the 240Z body. If the turn signals are in the grill, it is the 280Z body.

To make matters worse, there were two different bodies for the '71 240Z as well. Early '71s were the same as the '70s, later 71s were the same as '72-73. The differences aren't major, but they are different just the same.

Gotta do something about that pic. The car is really #919 yellow.

I'm not certain which needles are in my soon-to-be-installed carbs, but I suspect that they are whatever was stock for the 70-71 4 screw carbs (N54s?) I plan to use them on my L28, and won't change unless they are demonstrably lean.ZTherapy still says they use roller bearings, but that their bearings are "double-sealed." I assume that means they have an inside seal that would prevent carbon from getting in the bearing from the inside, as well as stuff coming in from the outside. I don't have any myself, so I obviously can't speak from experience.

There are several pictures scattered through the gallery, Search for 'su' and scroll through. Here are a few I found straight off: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17485 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16850 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16848 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16725 But remember that any of the hoses that connect to the factory air cleaner base plate now will have to have some sort of alternative figured out. The biggest headache is the breather from the valve cover. Many people use a small K&N on the breather, but that can lead to oil mist settling all over the engine compartment. A better alternative is to modify the base of one of the new air cleaners to accept a breather connection.

Round-tops should bolt right on to your existing manifold. You will need the center linkage piece for the round-tops, the flat-top linkage piece is different. Some round-tops have the water passages in the bottom, but many do not. And I'm not sure if the water passages in the flat-top manifolds match the late round-top carbs or not. So depending on what you have, you may need to block off the water to and from the manifold. (If you drive your Z during the Colorado winter, the water might be desirable. It'll be worth looking into whether your round-tops have the water passages or not.) The fuel lines for the flat-tops should work fine with the round-tops. But the flat-top air cleaner won't fit, you'll need to get a round-top air cleaner, aftermarket dual air cleaners, or the air cleaner adapters from ZTherapy. Really should be a fairly easy conversion. Should only take an afternoon as long as you have all the parts gathered in advance. Much simpler than my next project, removing the injection from my car and re-installing carbs.

No need, Enrique. I was a bit out of line. It was good of you (and others) to point it out.Since you and I are not that far apart geographically, we'll probably meet someday. And we can laugh about it. If you make it down to Springfield, I can treat you to a good, dark homebrew.

So no difference in how the dimmer switch works, or anything that would preclude using one if I'm willing to do a touch of re-wiring?

Well, I'm rather embarrassed. Two of the quotes listed there were mine. And although I probably came across rather harshly, it wasn't really my intent. I guess I'm still feeling the cynicism that I developed while searching for a realistic Z project. But it was totally unfair for me to transfer that to this car and its seller(s), when I've never seen the car in person, and didn't even take the time to thoroughly read the auction description. I'm guilty. Consider the point made, I apologize publicly, have deleted the inappropriate comments and have been rebuked.

It appears that 70-71 240Z used one type of turn signal switch, and 72-73 used a different one. Anybody know what the differences are? Assuming that originality is not crucial, is one better than another? I ask because I will be needing a replacement for my 71, and used switches from 72-73 seem to be more plentiful.

I'm sure it would probably work OK, but you might check around for a local metal polisher first. I found a shop local to me who will dip and polish 5 slots for $20-25 each. Much better job than I can do in the garage.

The seller of those horns also just sold a whole pile of NOS or otherwise concours quality 240Z stuff. Some of the prices will tickle you. Recently close auctions

Point taken. I was too harsh.

Off topic comment deleted. Sorry.

I stand corrected.

Nope, they don't do anything for me. Look like something you'd see on a Honda. Oh wait - that's because they are Honda wheels with spacers.

I agree with Carl, at least somewhat. I'd get an attorney involved, either to facilitate correcting the title, or to facilitate the car's return if necessary. You definitely don't want to have the car and the title not match.