Arne

Actually Jim, they did charge a buck a head for walk-ins. Which my wife and I paid gladly.

In the US, the '70 and '71 model years came with the 'D' caps, regardless of whether they were Series 1 or Series 2. Of course, no that I've said that, some one will show us the exception, but the above is correct in general.

I'm still trying to figure the valve cover as well. I don't think I want to polish it, but don't know how to restore to something similar to the original finish. I've seen a few that were painted a nice silver that looked good...

I strongly suspect those parts are still available from Nissan - you might check with your dealer as well.

Is the nondescript black box mounted on the side of the distributor? Or to the inner fender?

Obviously, you've never met the right woman. My wife refuses to drive an automatic, her car is a '91 VW Jetta GLI - 2.0L 16 valve, close-ratio 5 speed, Recaros, Sachs suspension and Techtonics Tuning mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust. So I don't want to hear none of that "women drive automatics." 'Tain't always true.

My wife swears that I have a knack for being out of step with the rest of the world, Will. So no offense taken.

My wife and I both prefer manual transmissions, other than for trucks. Just what we prefer, because we both know that automatics are better in some cases. But where we live we don't have to slog through rush-hour traffic, so all of our cars are manuals. My 240Z was an automatic car from the factory, and I converted it to a manual, but unlike many (most) people, I stuck with the 4 speed. In fact, I stayed with the early Type A tranny that it would have come with, had it not been an automatic. I figure in this day when many 240Zs have had 5 speeds installed, having a 4 speed in a driver might be a bit unique. But I can't vote in the poll, none of them apply!

Actually, no. I absolutely would not, will not, and did not pay a stupid price for hubcaps. In fact, I am too embarrassed to admit in public how affordably I bought my set. Suffice it to say that even if I only got $600 for my set, I'd be making a big profit.But it's not all about money. (Or at least, not yet.) It's about having something rare and unique. I'm not saying I'll never sell mine, but there's no hurry to make that decision, either.

Yeah, I know. If I were to do that, what I'd offer would be to start a new auction with a buy-it-now at his price. There are ways to do it and not fall afoul of eBay's rules.

I certainly understand, Dan. Like I said, if I were to sell mine, I have to write off any chance of having them ever again. And even if I never put them on the car, it will be nice to know that I have them.

Squeal is pad vibration. It rarely has much to do with the compound of the friction material, but more frequently caused by poorly made (or worn) backing plates that don't fit snugly in the caliper. Any thing you can do to change the vibration threshold will reduce the squeal.

Yeah, apparently they could. I have cleaned them since the pictures in the other post, they look virtually the same as the ones in the current auction. And I could certainly use the cash to finance more important parts of the project. But if I sell them, I have to accept the fact that I will never have a set like this again. First, because finding them in this condition is becoming more difficult all the time, and second because I couldn't make myself pay what they are apparently worth to other people. I guess I'll have to see what this set closes for, and make a decision then. I could always e-mail the second high bidder and offer him mine...

True story, I gave mine away a couple of months ago.

To the best of my knowledge, all the 3 speed automatics from any of the Z/ZX cars should bolt up and work. Gary (beandip) might have done a little more research on this, maybe he'll chime in here.

If you want the closest color match, get the paint from Les, as noted above. If "pretty close" is good enough, Chrysler engine blue is awfully close.

You'll notice that there's no heater blower on that either. My '71 FSM shows the defroster, but still no heater.

The shims on my car are thin sheets of stainless steel. In years of doing brake service, I never had really great results using any of the anti-squeal stuff, either in tube or spray on. I use proper shims and brake grease instead.

Oh Lord! Now what do I do? The set I lucked into a while back are almost that good. There is a dime-sized spot of corrosion on the back side of one of mine, otherwise they are the same as this set. I knew I could make a tidy profit on mine, but had no idea that these were worth THAT much. Here is the post with pictures of mine... http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=175684&postcount=17

No problem. But do remember that they need to be a true 7" wide. If you measure from outside lip to outside lip (no tire mounted) you need to subtract 1" from the result to get the true rim width. In other words, if lip to lip measures 7" the wheel is really a 6" wide wheel. A 7" wheel will measure approximately 8" lip to lip.

Where is number 1 lead on the distributor cap? My car have the pump spindle off one tooth when i got it, and number 1 was pointed towards the radiator cap. When I corrected it, number 1 points almost straight forward.

Lots of things will fit, but few will be "original looking." I struggled with this thought as well, and my solution was to get a vintage AM/FM/cassette deck (in my case a Pioneer KP-8000 Supertuner) that looks proper in the dash. Along with that I will likely use a low-power cheapie amp that has aux input for my iPod, assuming I want to go that way. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20462

I've frequently seen map light bezels on eBay, but seldom the light itself. I'm still looking as well.

On a 7" wide wheel (assuming they are a true 7" from bead to bead, not outside lip to lip), you have a lot more options. My favorite size for a 7" would be 225/60-14. But again, the selection of tires in that size is limited.

US spec S30s were prefixed HLS30, RLS30, etc. H or R for the engine, L for left hand drive, S30 for... Well, I'm sure you can figure that one out. There was no U in the S30 line. I think the US S130 prefixes were similar, but have not dug into them to be certain.