Arne

I think Ron is right. Since the modern spooks don't have the ducts completely finished, they don't aim the airflow directly at the brakes, but under the car instead. I have driven my car in the rain with my spook and did not notice any problems.

Welcome, Jason. What is it you are needing?

The '73 is the car we helped build the eBay auction for a short while ago. And the reason the '72 has been bid up so high so fast is that the starting bid was $10,595. It has one bid.But I agree, I'd rather have the '73 myself.

Darb, what makes you think that she won't pass? What symptoms are you having?

I normally use true gasket sealant instead of silicone. Same reason.

Not Datsun specific, but since water pumps aren't all that expensive, on my cars I typically replace them any time I'm doing any kind of cooling system repair. Not during coolant change, but if I do a thermostat, or radiator work and everything is already drained, the effort and cost to change it then is minimal.

I do get small club discounts from MSA on some items. But not on items which are already listed as "Sale" items. Which is frequently the case with their spook-copies.

Thanks, Michael. After looking about a bit, I think they stopped putting the engine number on the engine compartment plate in '77. I could still be wrong though, so owners of '77 and '78 280Zs should correct me if necessary.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch to me. Not the part the key goes in, but the electrical part that attaches to the back of the ignition lock assembly. Either that, or you have no power going up to the switch, but the clicking sound makes me think that there is power to the switch.

Seems to me that I recall that the later 280Zs did not list the engine number on a data plate anywhere. If so, you may not be able to determine if the engine is original for certain.

The wheels sold by MSA are the American Racing wheels I first mentioned. 15" & 17" only. Sorry, 'pup, those aren't Enkeis. Enkei's version of the Minilight style was shaped more like a Panasport, always painted either gold or silver, and had hardened inserts in the lug holes to use normal tapered seat lug nuts. Only came in even widths, too - 14x6 and 14x7. Yours look more like Westerns to me. Which makes them even more 'period-correct' than true Enkeis would be.As for the wheels I have in mind, I know of a place who claims to have a full set of 4 NOS Appliance slots in 14x7. No caps, but still NOS, never mounted. I'd already have them myself if it wasn't for the fact that I'm a bit leery of the 7" width on the front. But with a different air dam and lower profile tires they should be OK.

Don, what size tires are you running? I may know of a set that might meet your needs.

Here are links to a couple pictures from my gallery and earlier threads:

Almost has to be the wheel cylinder to get fluid inside the drum. 99% certain, if not more.

Other than my own, I typically see a first-gen Z once per week or so. ZXs are a daily sight. Again, I'm here in Oregon, where rust is a slower process, so more have survived.

Unfortunately, Appliance went out of business many years ago. New Appliances are not available.

Yes, American Racing is currently making a similar style. It is available in 15x7 and 17x7. Any American Racing dealer should be able to get them for you.

Because the Z Store program was never about originality, it was about marketing. If they were concerned with originality that would have kept the original engines matched to the cars.

Carl, you could always move back...

Very cool, Chris. Where in Oregon do you live? Maybe we'll run into each other (figuratively, of course).

No, I haven't contacted Chester & Herod, but have been exchanging e-mails with a Z vendor about this. Since I'm already in talks with one supplier, I'll leave it to someone else to contact C&H. Regarding my talks, I now no longer believe that all these kits are made by the same manufacturer. The vendor I'm working with actually has two different suppliers that he deals with, depending on what kits you want. I don't want to name the vendor yet, until we figure out what the final kit will be like. But I can say that the vendor and his supplier are open to suggestions, and that it appears almost certain that they will soon add the notches at the rear of the deck carpet to their 240Z loop pile kit. I believe that the padding material will remain the same as it is now, though. We are still looking at options for pre-cut slits for the front retainers by the seats. Those are currently not cut, although snaps for the front are included. More details as I get them.

Anybody else from around here planning on attending the swap meet at Wilsonville Nissan on the 29th? If so, are you bringing parts to sell, or looking to buy? Or just to socialize? I figure I'm going to bring a few of the parts that are larger, and a pain to ship. Things like bumpers, E31 head, maybe a gas tank (if I get it out of the yellow car in time). Probably fill in with smaller parts too.

Do a search here for Monza, there's a few other threads you can read on this, might even be a picture or two. The Monza will work with the Pacesetter header, as that header is also designed to mount to the stock exhaust. Sound is reputed to be nice, not too loud, and with a very mellow six-cylinder note. No drone. Do note that the Monza is much smaller diameter than the MSA system -- 2.0" compared to 2.5" for the MSA. For an L24 with stock cam and carbs, the 2.0" of the Monza is probably enough. But if your engine is much bigger or hotter than stock, a 2.25" or 2.5" might be better.

I really thought hard about the un-ducted version from MSA, for several reasons. I'd heard vague reports of wet brakes with the ducted ones. And both versions look good. But the ducted version looks more like what I remember more cars having way back when, and how often will I drive in the rain? And if I was going to get a ducted one, I figured I'd pop for what might be the better one. I hope to only have to do it once, so I didn't want to take any chances of a poor fit. Probably unnecessary, but that was my thought process. Ron, your CZCC number is 12938. It's not obvious, but if you view your own profile the number is visible at the end of the URL. See the attached for an example.

The later module will work, but without changes to the advance mechanism the advance curve will be messed up. The simplest option would be the correct module.