Arne

I had a pair of front inserts rebuilt by Bilstein a few years back. They were long NLA, Alpina-valved units for a gray market BMW 323i. No warranty for me, as I wasn't the original purchaser. But they had no problems rebuilding them, as long as I was willing to pay for the work. They came back working like new, turn-around was about a week. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was comparable to the cost of a new pair of Konis, which was the only choice left that was truly correct for that car at that point. And by rebuilding I got to keep the tuner-valving. No secondary bump stops are possible or even needed with those Bilsteins. They have an internal bumpstop built in. If they came with accordion boots (gaiters) to protect the tube, I'd use them.

I'd rather have the Bilsteins...

I didn't do it on my 240Z, but replaced all the vent hoses instead. But my car is a low mileage, mostly original survivor and I felt I wanted to maintain as much originality as possible. For a less original car, I'd have by-passed this in a heartbeat. Done correctly, the only possible downside is that it's not original.

When the damper rises, it pulls the needle farther into the small end of the taper, thereby richening the mixture, not leaning it. So weak damper springs won't do this.

Most people think so, but there is occasionally some disagreement on this topic.

Nothing wrong with a Pertronix for a daily driver - IF the dizzy you put it in is in good shape and not worn out. But these days that's hard to find. So the Unilite becomes a great alternative. Thanks for the guide, Dave. BTW, I converted your diagrams to GIFs, smaller file size, and browsers will display them so they don't need to be downloaded. We really need to get Dave some decent image-editing software!

This year Canby is June 13-14. Sunday is the day of the show. Datsun Drivin' Fun 2009 Forum announcement Some pictures from 2008 More pics from 2008

Welcome, Chris. Since we're in the same part of the country, I look forward to meeting you (and your car) in person some day. Think you'll have it road-worthy in time for the Datsun show in Canby in early June?

Press. I had the machine shop do it at the same time they re-surfaced the flywheel. They normally charge $10, but did it for free since I was doing the flywheel at the same time.

Les is easier to catch on the phone. His number is on the website.

I don't think Leah would approve of the latter... :paranoid:

It's definitely a great performing car, and the performance is even more impressive for the price. An outstanding performance value. But a good looking car, it ain't, not to my eyes. But that's just me. I fully support their purchase by bucket-loads of other people, keep Nissan solvent.

Seems fairly common, these days. The used hatch I bought for my first 240Z (Series 1) had had both tabs re-welded before I bought it. And the left side was flexing and breaking on the red car when I got it as well, and it was a low mileage, never abused car. I had a local body/paint shop re-weld the one on the red car. He removed the hatch from the car and ran a bead all the way around the tab, then coated the repair with POR. When I had him paint the whole car 18 months later (after the roof re-skin to remove the sunroof), he painted the underside of the hatch while he had it off.

Glad you like it. My wife and I saw one today while we were in the 240Z. I shook my head, and my wife actually laughed when she saw it, and asked me how long it has been since Nissan built a truly good looking car? Of course, she still hasn't forgiven them for building the F-10...

I think that's correct. None of my '71s (including the Series 1) had that part.

I think I'd paint the grill a darker color. Dark graphite, or maybe even satin black.

My turn today. Drove up the McKenzie River, stopped for lunch, went a bit farther and had a great hike along the river, then drove back home. The Z killed many bugs!

All indications point to the rear carb. Sounds like it's not delivering much fuel at all. You are aware that both carbs should not necessarily be adjusted the same number of turns, aren't you? I'd try leaving the front as is, and richening the rear carb only, pehaps as mus as a full turn richer to start.

Welcome! P.S. - Love the wheels....

They should. I think the only difference between the years was in the emblem holes on the side. In fact, I believe that the new fenders still available from Nissan are '70-78 all.

I can't imagine that there'd be any performance difference, if all else is equal (same coil, whether or not you have CDI added, timing and advance curves, etc.). Any performance difference would be from one of those other factors, not which distributor and module triggers the spark. But you're both right, parts availability might be a reason to swap.

You'd best talk to a copyright attorney, not a group of car nuts on the Internet. I don't think I trust an online forum for advise if legal action and/or fines might be involved if you do it wrong.

Not sure what happened to the rest of my post last night?? It should have read something like this:Put the strut housing in a big vice and attach a slide hammer to the end of the strut shaft. Don't clamp the tube of the housing as that may pinch tighter on the insert. Clamp at the bottom where the housing bolts to the steering knuckle. Doing it this way gives the same effect as your method, but avoids damage to the housing from the hammer. Carl's method often works as well, as long as the problem is not caused from rust inside the tube.

Put the strut housing in a big vice and attach a slide

I did swap that '71 back to carbs. Wrote a tech article on it. Not all will appy to this situation, but it will give a bit of an idea of what you need. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21574