Arne

I've seen pictures before. IIRC, Nissan used that intake on non-sporting versions. I don't know that it'll ever be super great for performance.

No, I don't think so. Back in those days they didn't use metric.

Those are - as the casting indicates - 14x7's, the wider of the two available sizes. I can't remember the offset off hand, but it was pretty aggressive (deep). Probably something like -10 or so. If you can lay a straight edge on the backside rim lip (not the tire, but the rim only) and measure from there to the mounting pad and post the measurement here, I can calculate the offset. Can still work on the front with the right tire and air dam choices.

These were technically vanity plates, as that is the only way to transfer vintage plates for daily use here in Oregon. Could have registered them as "Special Interest" (over 25 years old), but I couldn't live with the usage restrictions that brings. Not really what you are looking for, I know.

The US brake circuit goes through the turn signal switch, so any rewire you do needs to eliminate that part of the circuit. Check out these two tech articles for ideas: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/47299-71-240z-brake-light-circuit.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/34891-modify-us-240z-rear-turn-signal-wiring-jdm-style.html

They don't look "busy" enough to be Italian, to me. When I look at these I think of brands like Cosmic, 100+, etc. Alan brings up a good point, what do they say on the back?

I agree with Rob, not something that made it across the pond. Looks English to me, which makes sense. Try looking at aftermarket offerings for TR4 or MGB. Perhaps Alan will see this thread, he may be familiar with them. I'm going to edit the title to hint that this is a UK question.

Interesting. But to be honest, I can't recall ever hearing of anyone having staggered sizes in this rim before. Generally a Z is fairly well balanced (unlike my Porsche) and benefits from having all four the same size.

All three of my '71's obviously had the hinge sock/seal inserted and the hinge bolted in prior to painting the body. I can't find any pictures that show that right now, but it's true. The part of the rubber flange that protruded from under the hinge plate was painted, as was the hinge and the two big screw heads holding the hinges to the body. The hatches, on the other hand, were painted separately, as the screw heads for hatch attachment were unpainted.

Sebby, don't buy the marker light conversion from MSA. Speaking from experience here (as it was my idea that brought it to market), it doesn't do what you need. It is designed to make the existing fender lamp work as both an amber side light and an amber indicator.

OK, my understanding was correct. I'd disconnect or remove the bulbs from the two fender side markers, that should take care of that one. I see two options for the side light/indicator issue. The simplest would be to disable the side light circuit to the existing indicators, and wire the side light to a side light in an H4. One simple way to do that (if it would pass inspection) would be to tape over the appropriate terminal on the base of the dual filament bulb in the indicator, and connect the current fender light wires for the side light. A more elegant solution would be to use clear indicator lenses (example - Datsun 240Z 260z Front Turn Signals Parking Lights Lenses Clear Smoke Amber | eBay) with Amber dual filament bulbs. You would still need to disable what we call the parking lamp circuit to the indicator bulb, either by taping over the connector, snipping a wire, or similar. Then I'd drill a hole in the indicator housing (as shown by the blue arrows) to insert a generic side light socket. I would still probably connect it to the wires disconnected from the fender lights. Hope this makes sense.

I'm not familiar with the UK requirements. How do you need the front lights to work?

Old news. That design exercise is several years old. It was a private designers idea, has no grounding in reality. Nothing has or most likely will come from it.

Indeed. The 2.0 turbo-diesel in my daily driver Golf TDI is a sweetie. Quiet, economical, and a torque monster! 236 lb/ft at 1700-2500 RPM, 140 BHP net. With the 6 speed manual, 225/45-17s and GTI-like suspension, it's actually a fun little ride. Beats the hell out of driving a Prius...

Or, just announced today... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/49244-finally-240z-reproduction-tail-lamps-avalible-both-us-euro-type.html

Welcome! 1.) Not factory original or option. Dealer or owner installed if present. 2.) Hazard flasher switch. 3.) No clue. I drove a '71 for years, no problems with the "shift shafts".

Oh, I don't mind, but I don't really know. Once the whole thing was assembled, I found it too loud. I was tired of fussing with exhaust by then, so I drove straight to the muffler shop the local hot rodders use and asked them to put in whatever they recommended to quiet it down. I know it was a 2.5" glass pack, was unpainted and aluminized, and I think it was 24" long. No idea on brand or any details.

I think that should work pretty well. But bear in mind that - at least in my car - the center pipe ran very close to the left side of the tunnel. I had to have a couple of S pipes added to move the glasspack to the middle for clearance. I'd recommend fitting it as-is first, both to check for loudness, and to know what will need to be done if you need the glasspack.

If you search here for "twice pipes" you'll find plenty of reviews, but to save you some time, they are also rather loud, and have fitment issues.

When I built my custom exhaust using a Magnaflow dual outlet at the rear, it was way too loud. I had the muffler shop add a 24" glasspack in the tunnel and that quieted it to a reasonable level.

Ball joint shaft is a taper. You need a puller or ball joint separator.

It's not my car anymore, and it had different wheels on it when I sold it. But Terje does run center caps, according to all the pictures he has posted. I can't see the clearance from the picture angles you posted, but it looks encouraging. I also agree, that's an attractive but unusual air dam. I'd try 225/50 on that one, I think. 215/50 will look a little short and open up the fender gap.

Between those two it probably doesn't matter. I know that most Rotas are gravity-cast wheels, and I believe the Konigs are as well. If you want something a little higher quality, look at the VTO Classic 8, which I understand are low-pressure-cast instead. Or you could look at Panasports, which are great wheels, albeit a bit pricey.

OK. It depends a bit on your particular air dam, and whether it drops straight down in front of the tire, or wraps under like the stock valance does. In either case I'd recommend Rota Rb 7x16 with +4 offset. If your air dam drops and has a lot of clearance for the tires in front while turning, you can use 225/50-16 on all four. If your air dam wraps and has tight clearance while turning, stick with 205/55-16, at least on the front. The picture below is my former car in its new home in Norway. It has the Rotas mentioned here with 205/55-16 Pirellis.

Two questions - is your car lowered? Do you have an air dam on the front, or the stock valance?