Arne

I would not call either of the two original colors "bright red". You'll be happier with a non-original color, I think.

Gary is right, Toni's 240Z (the Ferrari red one) does look good if you are wanting a true vibrant red. Her color jumps out at you, and the difference between her red and my factory 905 is quite striking when the cars are parked next to one another. So if using a stock color isn't important, I'd do what Gary did. Go cruise a parking lot and look for a shade you like.

We used 3M spray adhesive number 76 or 77, can't remember which. One of those two was recommended by 3M for foam-to-metal, and good for high temperatures.

Did you mean 905 or 110?If so, 905 is a warm red, with just a touch of an orange tint. 110 is more of an red-orange color. Neither are what I'd describe as a true red. For that you'd need to go to an non-original color.

Yes. Typically for Datsuns of this vintage the model year seems to start with September production. So 8/71 is a '71, but 9/71 and later would be a '72. But when in doubt about a particular part, is is best to go by the build date alone, not the model year.

And earlier in this thread... ROTFLMAO!!!

Ron, how does the color of the polished stainless compare to factory chrome? Some stainless alloys tend to have a slight yellow cast, those don't appear to?

Nissan factory front lip for UK/Europe. Not offered in the USA.

Supersedes to 47210-E4626, $130.82 at Courtesy.

They are still available new, part #65157-N4400, Courtesy's price is $3.10 each.

You're a he-man, just stomp harder!

I DO know where my CD is - it's in the file cabinet with all the rest of my commercial software installation media. I've had the actual files installed on my Mac's hard drive since the beginning, with an alias to the starting PDF as Andrew noted. The only difference is that on a Mac you need to make certain that it is set open with Adobe Reader, not Apple's supplied Preview application. Otherwise the links between the various files don't work properly.

I've got over 20 years in with SU-equipped cars, both Japanese and British. And I agree that most all carb "issues" I've dealt with over the years was from un-needed fiddling. Either from people certain they could be adjusted better than they are, or people who start tinkering with the carbs anytime the car hiccups. FWIW, once set they don't change themselves, so there's no reason to suspect them when things don't work normally. Problems are more often ignition or fuel delivery TO the carbs, not the carbs themselves.

You may want to chat with your insurance agent about rates for different types of car before pulling the trigger on any "sporty" car. Could have a big bearing on affordability for a new 16 year old driver.

I've never looked for one for a '72. Both earlier and later seem available, but '72s???

Actually, in my experience a 9/70 build probably came with the 1971 emissions sticker, and was "officially" considered a '71 by Nissan USA. The split for those days was typically between Aug and Sept.

It has a G-nose on it. Can be replaced by the normal parts later, it's all bolt-on. You may be able to sell the G-parts later, some people really like them.

Fair enough, E. I just have it better than most. My Nissan dealer is happy to order me whatever I ask for, whether I supply the part number or not.My dealer does not require me (as a known return customer) to pre-pay for my orders. I can phone or email my request and pay when I pick it up.My dealer just happens to be about 3 miles from my home, and directly on my normal work commute route. No side trips required for me to stop in on my way home.My dealer offers me a club discount on all parts, the price typically equals or betters the price from other online dealers like Courtesy or NissanParts.cc.No shipping charges unless I ask for next day delivery.No sales tax here in Oregon, so the lack of tax for online purchases is not an issue. So, yeah, I've got it pretty good. Better than most, it sounds like. But with all the above being the case for me, why would I consider buying a Nissan factory part anywhere else? I'm not saying people should not buy from MSA (or any vendor they prefer). But there are a whole lot of factory parts that are not available from non-Nissan dealers, yet many Z newbies don't even think about giving a Nissan dealer a try. It may not work for everyone as well as it works for me. But it might be worth a shot now and then.

if it goes away when you step on the clutch, it's either an input shaft bearing or one of the two countershaft bearings. Not a release bearing or clutch problem.

Well, I feel bad for those of you whose local dealers are difficult to work with. Mine is great. Yes, I generally supply part numbers, but not always. And they never give me grief about ordering some small part that only costs peanuts. If your dealers don't work that way, well that's outside my experience, and I guess that's a good enough reason to go elsewhere. I certainly understand supporting the site, and its sponsors. Besides my supporting the site directly and through the recent Bolder Tint GB, I've spent plenty with MSA, probably more than I have with my local Nissan dealer. But the other part of that is that my dealer can and will supply Nissan parts that MSA doesn't have, and isn't likely to get. When I wanted to rebuilt my original fuel pump (rather than replace it), MSA had no repair parts. Neither did my dealer, of course. But the dealer was able to order them. Try that with MSA. I guess my point is - MSA is NOT a Nissan dealer. They aren't going to stock or have available all of the various parts that are still available from Nissan for these cars. So if there's a particular part that I want, I'm going to check with my dealer first. If they can get it, that's where I'll buy from. If Nissan can't supply me, then I'll buy from MSA or where ever else I can find it. And if I need something that's not a factory part, MSA is one of my first stops.

I like MSA, but can't see why people go to them and pay shipping instead of going to the Nissan Dealer first. Makes no sense to me, since all MSA is doing is getting them from Nissan and reselling them.

Too much money. $15.00 for the pair shipped? List price from Nissan is $1.20 each. No shipping costs at most dealers, and tax would only be a few cents.

I won't dispute the fact that Standard aren't what they were years ago. But I still don't understand why you need to replace them so often.

Try a Nissan dealer.The one that bolts to one of the thermostat housing bolts (#34) is part number 22473-N3000. The other two (#38) are number 13241-65000. It looks to me like the small ones are still in stock in Nissan warehouses. The larger one might be NLA, so you may have to find a used one.

I'm with Mike, the last set I removed had over 6000 miles on 'em, and still pretty good shape. I'll keep them as spares. I don't know why you should need to change them so often.