Arne

I think that is the factory spoiler that was installed on all UK and European market 240Zs. They turn up here in the US now and then.

Ummm, the stock mount has trouble with the stock 150 hp...Even on my stock-motored 240Z, I'm loving my RT mount.

A failed mount generally shows no outward signs while sitting parked and relaxed.

It depends on where you are located. Here on the west coast where rust is not as prevalent, it's not too hard to find a Z with minimal rust that is relatively easy to repair. That makes it difficult to justify repairing a rusty car that might be considered to be an ideal restoration candidate back in the rust belt. On the other hand, serious structural damage to the unibody is almost always fatal.

I merged the two threads, and deleted one of the two identical posts.

I was going to try number 3, until a batch of RT mounts became available. Went that way instead. But on the other hand, there are other parts of the drivetrain that can cause clunks that sound and feel very much the same as the diff mount. I would start with that, but don't be too surprised if that doesn't totally eliminate it.

Maybe. I'll have to borrow my son's and see.

Darn it all anyway! An iPod won't fit in the '70-71 ashtray...

I searched for the word "movies" and found the previous thread easy enough. I'll merge this thread into the old one, as there's no need for two threads on this, especially when they have the exact same title...

Depends. What year?

The original size battery was of the Group 24/24F top post type. If the side post cables are in good condition, a Group 74 (side post) is the same size as the 24/24F battery and should fit fine.

VIN is probably a typo. It appears to me to be a '73, looks like you can read 10/72 on the door plate. Might have an earlier dash in the car, which could confuse the VIN issue.

I'm cool with all of that, Randy. Please feel free to offer your thoughts when body/paint questions are posted. Very pleased to see that my possibly over-cautious response above did not totally chase you away. Thanks for giving the site another try.

April, there should be a cast bracket that bolts to the block. That bracket is mostly the same for all Zs and ZXs, I believe. So if you can find a 280ZX ('79-83) in the yards down there, that should work.

No, you're right, it's not as easy to find as a dedicated part of the forum. Many forums that use the same software package as we do don't buy the separate classifieds module. But the separate module gives some specialized classified functions that aren't available otherwise.

See attached...

I have no problems with new members here offering help on any given topic. But there were/are several things about this one that I didn't care for. This line (and the thread title) could tend to give the impression (to new members) that the poster might be approved or sanctioned by the club. Which is, of course, not true. Doesn't mean he may not be able to offer good advice, but he should offer it freely, not ask for questions. Frankly, this doesn't inspire confidence. If you don't work there any longer, what's there to hide? This one almost sounds like a solicitation, looking for work. Probably not, but it does have that sound.In total, I felt I needed to post my comment. No way I intended to run him off, and I do regret that result, if true. If he returns and freely offers his advice where appropriate, I support that fully.

Just a reminder, folks. We have several current and/or retired body/paint professionals as members here, as well as many very talented and experienced amateurs. I would recommend that those with questions not address them to any one person, but simply post them here and let them all chime in as appropriate.

Most plug wires these days already have all the noise resistance you need. I use non-resistor in mine without issue.

I think so, yes. I can't recall that Nissan ever used 10 x 1.5, in my experience all 10mm threads are 1.25 pitch.

Not common in the US, but certainly not the only set. I see them available here and there every few months.

Canby is a good place to meet most of the Oregon CZCC group. Here's some pictures of the group caravan going in last year.

I'm pretty certain that he said he used 80 grit.

When I had the roof skin replaced on my car, the body guy just used a DA on it. Might clog a few sanding discs, but it might be easier than dealing with nasty chemicals. I used 3M number 76 adhesive. The 3M website recommended that one for foam-to-metal, and for heat resistance. It has worked great.

Just a guess from someone who typically doesn't do a lot of hot rodding, but since the stock SUs have two 46mm throats, and that even a pair of Weber DGV's is only considered to be stock replacement, I suspect that a single Weber with two 38mm throats would not be a performance upgrade.