Arne

You're right, I know that too. Don't know what I was thinking. I've got to not post when my brain is supposed to be concentrating on work... :stupid:

12/70 would have been the second iteration of non-retractable belts. Push-button latches.

Yup, if you end up having to remove the headliner, try to find the loosest corner and start slowly peeling it off the roof. Have some sort of scraper handy to try cut or scrape the foam off the roof to keep the foam on the vinyl as much as possible.

Same reason I ended up parting the yellow car. While it would have been a great starting point in the Rust Belt, by the time you add trucking costs and the uncertainty from not being able to inspect in person, most buyers back East are wary of pulling the trigger on something like this. And there's too much competition here on the West Coast.I know it's hard, Dave, but be patient and your buyer will come. It is a good car, and someone will eventually come to that conclusion.

Yeah, I can't quite visualize the entire car from the light itself, but I'm thinking late '60s Corona.

It has been my understanding that the triple Mikunis were originally considered as part of a possible Sport package option. Getting them past emissions testing in time may have been the hang up at first, and once they got rolling and the waiting lists kept growing there was obviously no incentive to certify them.Just my thoughts - no idea how correct (or not) I may be.

The 4/71 car I parted had a plastic tank. My 7/71 is metal. I think they changed to metal in 6/71.

There's a lot more Zs here on the West Coast, so the prices tend to be lower.

Then a single (not twice pipes) 2.0-2.25" should be fine for you. I'd have it made locally, not start with a pre-built and then pay someone else to re-build it.

Dave, knowing our market here in the PacNW, and having seen the car in person, I'd call it a solid $4000 car. Maybe a bit more if you got really lucky, but probably not. Or maybe $3500 for a quicker sale.

I can't qualify for collector insurance either - while I don't drive my Z daily, it is the third car in what is technically a three-driver household. (No matter that both my wife and son commute by bike, or that I often commute by motorcycle, 3 cars + 3 drivers = no collector status.) I agree with Rob, no need to do declared value, as a normal policy has to cover ACV, and if you have it appraised correctly and the insurance company is aware of the appraisal, that will pretty much determine ACV.

You've got mismatched pointer and pulley. Early motors had five marks on the pulley and a single pointer. Later cars used a single mark on the pulley and the multiple-mark indicator. Best thing to do now (IMO) would be to find true TDC (0°) by watching the #1 piston through the plug hole, and confirm which marks line up at TDC.

I guess it depends on how badly you want a low VIN, and how much of the low-VIN stuff is still there. But for anyone not as concerned about that, it seems pretty dear for the condition. I didn't pay much more than his asking price for my red car. Not low-VIN, but the condition was much better. I'v got some of the pre-purchase pictures on my web site - http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/extras/red-gallery.html

3M 76 has a higher temp tolerance than 77. That's what I used on my headliner two years ago with good results.

You may want to use the forum's search feature, as the twice pipes system have been discussed here extensively in the past. Just search for "twice pipes".

I also left the regulator mounted to the inner fender. With it there you really can't even see the regulator eliminator plugged into the harness. Makes for an almost invisible mod.

Leakage is definitely a possible problem (trust me, I know firsthand). Didn't have it overfilled long enough to notice any long-term issues.

No good answers, I'm afraid. Sounds like your alternator has failed. If the battery is too low to make it home or to work with as little electrical load on as possible (all lights, wipers, fan, radio, etc off), towing may be your only option. About the only thing you can do short of that would be to verify connections at the alternator and voltage regulator. A well charged battery should get you more than 17 miles, especially with lights off. But perhaps you didn't catch it that soon.

Also, I started a Gallery category for Canby 2010. Feel free to upload your pictures.

I didn't register because I wanted to win anything, I just wanted a reserved parking spot this year! So I guess you could call that supporting the hobby. I really did enjoy one thing about being registered - parked in the "judged" area you get to chat with a lot of strangers, not just your existing friends. Lots of people come to look at the cars, and many of them are former owners who will share their old Datsun stories with you. Much more of that going on in the registered area. I guess it looks that way for my car, mostly since a lot of what you can see is not only stock, but still original. But if I really get down to it - despite the mostly stock, and period correct looks - I could make quite a list of non-stock items on my car. They just aren't very visible.Then again - the criteria for the "stock" class at Canby is pretty loose compared to something like the National Convention. No way my car gets classified as "stock" there. But at Canby, stock bodywork, drivetrain and interior seem to be the main items. A few add-ons like my car has don't override things like full and functioning emissions gear, etc. Mike's yellow Jedi car could probably pass for the stock class if he ditched those triples for a set of SUs.