Arne

Ron, I used the headliner out of my yellow car in the red car after the sunroof was removed. When I pulled (carefully) the headliner off the donor roof, there were two or three small spots where the foam stuck to the roof and left a divot in the foam. When Escanlon helped me install it in the red car, he noticed those divots and filled them with little scraps of foam to prevent them from showing after the install. Worked perfectly.The other option (if you are missing significant amounts of foam) would be to remove it all an glue a new sheet of foam to the vinyl. That shouldn't be too hard, assuming you can find an extra body or two to help lay it out smoothly. I'm pretty sure it is the same story, just a different pattern of vinyl. Still needs to be glued in place.

My car also sat at the "correct" height with the stock springs and non-gas Mulhollands. (Which also groaned and stuck.) The GR-2s with the stock springs raised it 1/2" or so. I currently run the GR-2s with a set of the repro Euro springs, which need to be cut down when used on US spec strut tubes regardless of the struts used. So I just cut them down a bit more to bring the height down to stock again.I'm glad I have a set of springs that I didn't mind trimming for my car. Gives me a lot more strut options. But like Dan and his set of stock repros, no way I want to cut my originals. If those were all I had, I'd also be looking at Konis.

I've never done this on a car of this vintage, but I'd guess that you can safely remove all the injection-related circuitry, unless it also connects to something unrelated. But these cars didn't have true engine management like modern cars do, so I doubt there will be any issues.

That is a great find, Kats. Should not be too difficult to restore it. It will look perfect on your 432.

I don't think so. The price is right in the ball park. I think the issue is two things - one is the Northern Idaho location. The other is that - despite the fact that we all look at them, I don't think our classifieds here are widely read. For parts and such, they are a great deal. But for entire cars - maybe not so much. Have you posted it any where else?

Classic Datsun Motorsports (aka CDM, http://classicdatsun.com/ ) has white seat covers, replacement foam, diamond trim and replacement plastic all listed on their website. I've not seen their white seat covers in person, but I have seen theirs in black, and they were a near perfect match to my originals. When I do replace mine, those are what I'll use. I imagine that the rest of the parts are probably of equal quality.

It's more than one wire you'd have to jump. At least two, maybe four. Plus you may need to un-jump the brake light circuit and re do it differently. Hard to say for certain without seeing exactly what was done.

Dan, the gas units I used with my stock springs were KYB GR-2s. They did raise the ride height as I noted above. The inserts that came out were non-gas Mulhollands. So my personal experience on this car is that your mechanic is wrong.

The turn signal circuits pass through the hazard switch. They won't work without the hazard switch unless you do a lot more by-passing. As an aside, the brake lights pass through the hazard switch too. A bad hazard switch was probably the root cause of all this. In fact, since the brake lights and rear turn signals use the same bulbs, you'll probably need to un-bypass the brakes to get the rear turn signals to work.

More accurate to say that HLS30-00013 was the lowest VIN NA-spec 240Z sold to the public. No way of know which car was actually SOLD first.

What Jon said. In my experience, fresh gas charged inserts will raise the ride height by 10-15mm over non-gas, or gas-charged inserts that have lost their charge.

Yeah, the roof is very period, but that doesn't make it nice, at least not to me. Interesting to note that while this car only got a half-roof, the full roof (in black only) was actually listed in the Nissan parts fiche. (See attached.) Not sure which is worse - a vinyl roof or the glass sunroofs so many cars (incl. mine) got over the years. At least the vinyl is less work to remove during a paint job, removing the sunroof on mine was a bit of a project. But on the other hand - if the rest of the car's paint is decent, I don't know if I could bring myself to paint the whole car just to lose the vinyl. And some people may like it!

Almost. But not quite.

This one in the Tech Articles forum? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34891

Some of that crap is corrosive to alloy wheels, besides making a hella mess inside to clean up later when the tires get changed.

Gotta love these nice garage-finds. That's a sweet example!

Nope, would have been vinyl seats the same color as the door panels.

Guys, please take all your purchase talk, confirms and post-install support questions to PMs or email. Don't post them here in the discussion thread. Pre-purchase technical questions and answers are OK here, but purchases and after-purchase support need to be offline.

This type of post should really go in the Product Reviews section of the site. http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/index.php

As the good sergeant used to say, "I hear NUTTING..."

The stated specs for that size from most tire makers say that the max rim width should be 6.5". That said, it's been done many times before.

Style 20. True 3-piece construction, but fully seam-welded after being bolted together. (You can see the two welding beads in the last picture between 2.5 and 3".) Rim halves were anodized, not clear-coated. But the center was machined and clear-coated. Metal center caps. Pretty sure that the 4 lug ones were only available in 14x6 and 14x7. Might have been some 15x7s late in the production run, but nothing bigger in 4 lug. High quality aluminum in those - once the anodizing was stripped off they would polish like a mirror.Similar wheels (same 3-piece welded construction and sizes) were Style 32 (same as 20 but with round holes in the center part), Style 30 (same as 32 but gold painted center) and Style 26 (the original "sawtooth" style, actually available in left and right side applications). Yup, no problems with that. I do have a bit of a problem with Enkei using a Z in their promo materials though, since the new sizes aren't appropriate for Zs. The 15x7 has a 38mm offset, and the 15x8 a 25. Not even close. That was the real purpose for my clarification there, to let people know that these new wheels won't simply bolt up and go on a classic Z.

Same look, but not the same wheel. Enkei discontinued the original years ago, is just now using this style as an entry into the retro market.But while the originals were a welded 2 piece wheel with a cast center and an anodized roll-forged rim, the new ones are 1-piece cast, with a machine-finish lip. Despite the picture on their webpage, the new ones are not available in RWD offsets to fit a Z either - at least, not without using a hefty spacer. Not sure if the new cap will fit the original wheels or not.

The blue one sure sits high in the front. With that reverse rake, no front spoiler/air dam and the known proclivity for early 240Zs to get light in front at highway speeds, I can guess that it might be a "thrilling" ride at speed.

Enkei Style 92. Aftermarket, not stock. Available in black, bronze-gold or (rarely) silver-machine-faced center. Lip was roll-forged and anodized, then the center was welded into place. Sold here in the US from about '85 through the early '90s. Available sizes that would fit a Z were 14x6, 14x7, 15x7 and (towards the end of their availability) 16x7 & 8. May have been a few 15x8s, but I can't recall for certain. The 15x8s weren't common if they existed at all. Still relatively common to find on older Zs today. Center caps are plastic, somewhat fragile, NLA and hard to come by.