Arne

Seems to me that the original strings from the 240Z mast was attached to the spool reel at the end with a cotter pin or something similar. I had to pull the reel cover off to get the broken end out. Like others, I only had my one original mast to work with, and I could not figure out how to release the old, brittle string from the base of the mast. I eventually gave up trying, for fear of damaging it. Since my original string was broken fairly close to the far end, I took the metal barb off the broken end and and reattached it to the remains of the string on the mast. As such. my original antenna is now about 8" shorter than it was when fully extended. I'd love to replace the string though, if anyone figures out how.

That happens sometimes when Mike does some database maintenance. No idea why. I fixed it. I'm more concerned about mine - 7500 posts since June, 2005. I really ought to get a life!

Well, I think I'm getting close now. I'm pretty certain that what I'm envisioning will work, so it's about time to put my money where my mouth is. I think I'll buy and fab the rear muffler/tips first, then once that's done, I'll get the MSA system and the final few bits. Got to find someone to do the welding for me as I don't have that equipment myself. Stay tuned, film at 11:00....

The Black Dragon tail light gaskets I got recently seem OK. Appear to have been made just for them, as they have BD's part number molded in. I think they came from Thailand. I can see new door seals in my future, I'm still not satisfied with the Precision. Like much of the Precision kit, they are just OK at best.

No, the factory springs were all linear rate, not progressive. So the rate will be unchanged when cut. All the cut did for me was correct the ride height.

Let me preface this by saying that the Precision weatherstrips I got from MSA were purchased over 3 years ago now, so I can't speak for current production for certain. I would call both front and rear to be acceptable in function. In appearance, the front is OK, the rear less so. The front is not as well molded at the corners as I expect the factory is, but not too bad. On the rear, the gap in the groove for the stainless trim is too narrow, which makes the trim look too narrow. Since I have them in the car now, neither problem is bad enough to make me want to replace them at this time. But if I were to replace them, I'd probably spring for factory, especially for the rear.

No. Either the tach is not sensing enough voltage through the inductive loop, or it's failing. The distributor can't affect it that way, as far as I can see. My money is on a failing tach.

For '72, the only choices from the factory were color and transmission. Everything and anything else was dealer installed. No factory options past the transmission.

Factory Nissan inserts? No idea. Probably similar to KYB but w/o the increased ride height of the gas KYBs.

It's a condensor to reduce radio interference.

Yup. Since I don't trust the Pertronix totally, I want the pieces in place so I can revert easily. I carry a set of points in the car with me as a backup.

My car is a 7/71, so essentially the same as yours. My resistor is bypassed the same as yours, but I did connect the red from the Pertronix to the BR in an effort to get cleaner voltage to the unit. Works fine that way.I'm not sure what the issue with your tach might be, as mine works fine w/o adapters or any odd hacks.

If you can find a set, I like the repro euro springs I cut-down for my car. The spring rate is about 10-15% firmer than stock US springs. They do need to be cut some to give normal ride height, but no mods other than that. Several of the people who got in on that group buy bought more than one set - maybe someone has a set they'd be willing to part with?

Dunno. Send them to me and I'll test them extensively to find out. (Man, I'd love to have found a set of NOS like that.) Seriously, I suspect they were originally designed to be used with factory springs. But from past experience with Bilsteins in other cars, I'm sure they would also work fine with a bit stiffer than stock.

OK, one down. As for the tach, did it work OK before the Pertronix? Because the tach in my '71 doesn't seem to care whether the resistor is connected or not. Works fine either way.

I would tell the shop and both insurance companies (yours and theirs) you are unhappy with the work, and tell them you want it fixed properly.

OK, if I do this I'll try one a touch smaller diameter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-50252FLT/

Those aiming tools mostly went away with the death of the sealed beam. DOT approved lights still came with the three nubs well into the '90s if not later. But I haven't seen one of those in years, and they won't work on lamps that lack the nubs.

Don't worry about the tach until you get the ballast and timing taken care of. Timing - if you don't know where it was, I'd start at the stock setting (5° BTDC). If there is no ping during a good test drive, advance it a few degrees and re-test. If the cam you have is stock, I'd say 8-10° as a guess. If it is a slightly hotter aftermarket cam, maybe 12-15°. But those are just guesses - every motor is different. Resistor - The goal with the resistor is to get close to 3Ω total. The stock coils are about 1.6Ω, so they use a 1.5Ω resistor in the circuit. If you had bought the 1.5Ω Pertronix coil, the resistor would still be needed to get to the desired 3Ω total. But since you got the 3Ω coil, you don't need a resistor.

Can't remove them later, the tips I'm looking at are glass-packed.

Timing should be whatever worked before you did the conversion. It may be different than stock depending on your car, conditions and config. Stock is 5 degrees BTDC. I'm running about 10 degrees on mine. With the 3Ω coil you should bypass the resistor.

First thing - check the timing. Doesn't matter that the dizzy wasn't moved, the Pertronix sensor will not be exactly the same location as the points were before you removed them. In my car, the difference when switching between points and Pertronix is at least 10 degrees.

Email doesn't seem to be outgoing again. I'm hoping that an upcoming hardware replacement (with a fresh OS) will permanently fix this.

OK, next part. Let's say that I need to weld a tip directly to the outlet of a muffler. Let's assume the muffler outlet is 2" ID (so a 2" OD pipe would slip inside for clamping) and extends from the muffler case by 3". But since the muffler space on a 240Z is - as we know - already at the very rear of the car, slipping a 2" pipe in and then using the tip I want for the 2" pipe is too long. The tip could not be tucked in where I need it, at best it would be the 3" from the muffler case. _________________ | | ___| |___————————/ ___| |___ / | | ——————/ |_______________| So what I'm thinking is to use a tip with a 2 1/4" ID that will slide OVER the outlet, and could butt up flush to the muffler case. _________________ | | ___| |————————/ ___| | / | |——————/ |_______________| But ideally, I think I'd want some sort of a bushing that would make that a snug fit prior to welding. And this is my question - has anyone seen a bushing of this type? The ID would need to be whatever the OD of a 2" ID pipe is, 2 1/8" or so? and the OD of the bushing would need to be 2 1/4" so that a 2 1/4" tip would slide on. Any leads? I've tried googling but the results have been marginal. I may not be using good search terms.

FWIW - I too have had problems with the Pertronix, including both the infamous problem above 4000 RPM, and also a complete failure of a 3.0Ω Pertronix coil. But in the interest of full disclosure - I also had similar high RPM problems with a ZX dizzy, too.