Arne

Danny has a pile of parts that are very useable. But if a car is parted out because it was too far gone to fix, chances are that the parts off it are not going to be pristine. The best of the stuff at Danny's will likely need to have a small ding or two dealt with before painting. Most of them will have several coats of paint, often in various colors. Not a fault of Danny or his stuff, that's just generally the case with used parts. Used parts rarely come off of really pristine cars, it's generally just the opposite. I've not yet dealt with Eric at ZParts personally, but I suspect that even his A parts will need some repair to be really ready. You'll need to be prepared for shipping damage as well. Hoods and fenders are going to be shipped via freight truck, and it's difficult to pack them well enough to avoid all damage.

Danny is totally honest, and happy to exchange or refund any part you get from him that you aren't happy with. But - I have been to Danny's place twice, and have bought both hard parts and a rear tailgate. For body parts in the condition you want, I think you (or the shop you will deal with) will need to call Danny directly and explain to him in detail that you are looking for the best that he has. Even that may not be quite what you are looking for, but it will be close.

I'm no expert on this, but I shouldn't think the flange would have any measurable effect. The goal (as I understand it) is to straighten out the airflow and reduce turbulence. If so, all you need is the radius are.

I've heard that the stacks inside the factory air box are actually relatively good. (I have no personal knowledge of that, though.) So if I was planning to ditch the airbox in favor of aftermarket filters (I'm not), I'd look for something similar to the stock ones. Of the ones you pictured, the RamJet (4th pic) are closest.

I bought my car as a 5, hope to be at 4 by the end of the summer. My goal is a 2.5 or so. Better than a 3 but driven too much to be a 2.

What kind of fuel pump are you using? Factory type on the head? Or electric?

Unsprung weight is bad for handling too.

Please pay my respects to Her Majesty, I appreciate her blessings. I just wish the project were farther along. My current thought is that a.) if I get this second engine, and b.) if it has the 2400 cover, while it might be cool to have, it might be better to use it to finance other parts of the car. After all, my car is not going to be worth more with it, and it sure won't make it drive better. But money for more parts... that's another matter entirely. Chris, are there still people looking for SUs without the float drains? I didn't think they were all that rare?

Thanks, Chris, that's the kind of info I was looking for. I already have the '73 long block (E88 head), and it would be fine after a refresh. But everything else I have for my car is a real mixed bag. I have an opportunity to pick up a second L24, that looks really complete, from the picture I've been given. It has been confirmed to have the E31 head, and I can see the airbox and carbs in the picture. It might have the 2400 OHC valve cover, but I can't say for sure since I haven't seen the thing in person yet. I already have a set of 4 screw carbs (no float drains), but they are on the '72 manifolds. I really don't need the second engine, I have pretty much all I need to get my car running now. My car will never be totally original, I'm swapping the automatic for a Type A four speed, and the original engine is long lost. So it doesn't really matter to me if mine has an early L24 or one out of a '73. But I'm considering getting the early one anyhow, picking the best parts for my car, and then selling off what I don't need. Just a thought, when did the "Nissan 2400 OHC" covers stop? Would my car from 10/70 have come with one originally?

Hey folks, I'm looking at yet another L24 for additional parts. If I do this, I'm going to have some spare stuff left over. Anyone have any thoughts on value if I were to offer things like: Early (non-flapper) airbox4 screw SUs on '72 manifoldsL24 head, either E31 or small-valve E88 (not sure which)L24 short block, either a '70 or a '73 (again don't know which yet)Additionally, I'm going to have an L28 long block available too. An F54/P79 combo from an '83 ZX. Will likely need rings (oil control, has good compression). It will probably go cheap just to get rid of it. Anyway, any ideas on value of the L24 stuff? Or should I just figure on ebaying it all?

Just the ZXs had T-tops. None of the first body style had them, at least not from the factory.

Either the Pertronix-type or the later 280ZX ignition will work fine. The Pertronix is retro-fitted into your existing 240Z distributor, so it will be fine as long as your distributor is in really good shape. If, like many, your 240Z distributor has worn shaft bushings, the results will be not as good. Of the later distributors, the 280ZX ignition is preferred mainly because it is simple and self-contained. It is very easy to wire. The best choice is from a '79 or '80 280ZX. The '81 through '83 distributors are the same as the '79-80, but the module is not - and the proper E12-80 modules are starting to become difficult to find in some areas.

I knew there was something I forgot - we all need to learn to not take things so seriously, or personally.

Folks, I've only been around here for 9 months or so, but I can't have helped but notice that this site has a higher level of unfriendliness than other car-related forums I've frequented in the past. I know from things I've read here that we have lost knowledgeable people in the past to this attitude, and since I freely admit that I don't know it all, I'd like to make a couple of friendly suggestions on how we all (including myself) can make this a more welcoming site. 1.) Lighten up on the noobs and other mis-posters. Yes, maybe they don't know anything. Why? Probably because they're noobs! (We've all been there.) But they may have fresh ideas and info to offer, once they get rolling, so we don't want to chase them off after their first few posts. You can count on them continuing to ask about putting 240Z bumpers on their 280Z, and probably to ask that question in the Tech Articles forum. Oh well. It's going to happen, we need to accept it and move on. Assure them that it has been asked before, maybe link them to a simple search on their topic and let them learn from there. 2.) We need to think about how our replies to other folks' posts sound, before we hit submit. (I'm personally bad about this one.) Use the Preview button and read it through. If we don't agree, fine, but don't try to be sarcastic or 'cute' with your reply - sarcasm and such doesn't come across well in this medium because facial expressions and tone of voice are absent. It often just ends up sounding mean. It may sound trite, but making this forum a welcoming and courteous place to get and share info is in all our best interests.

Jim, I don't recall ever seeing one of your posts in the wrong forum, so I suspect that you already HAVE got it. I certainly hope that my venting a bit here (after a particularly bad episode of user support at work) hasn't driven you away.

How 'bout this one? It's aimed at 510s, but should be the same thing for Zs. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html

Aren't the 240Z bearing caps taler than the 280Z caps? Seem to recall that Konig caps it on 280s but not 240s?

Caps have no effect on brake function. You've got air in the lines, or an open bleeder.

This final sentence is the key.

You might consider using a good synthetic such as Redline MTL. Bryan (nwcubman) just put that in his 240Z recently, and I run it in all the rest of my vehicles. (The Z doesn't have a manual transmission... yet.)

I agree, and I personally have learned to look there. But -- when the right column says "Engine & Drivetrain" it doesn't differentiate whether that is for 240/260/280Z, 280ZX or 240k. Same with "Interior" or "Electrical" or whatever. So holding up the right column as the locator is not the total answer. Lastly, I work in customer support for a living. Using that as a guide, I sincerely doubt that we will ever get the run-of-the-mill user to read the directions. Sad, but true.

Looks restorable to me, even to my West coast eyes. Looks to be worth saving.

Like this one?

Gee, here you have a '79 ZX distributor and you're thinking of getting rid of it? Many of the 240/260/280Z people on this site are hunting for that very unit! Seriously, for what you are describing, the distributor you have now is probably fine. If you want a nice hot spark, you could piggy-back something like an MSD 6A. Probably no real benefit to replacing the distributor itself unless it's worn out.

Yeah, and I think part of the reason is some of the very tools that make this site so easy to use. For example, if you bookmark the link for the last 24 hours posts (as I do), you see all these threads in one homogeneous list. There is no differentiation as to what forum a post is in. So you see a post, you read it and you reply to it - not even knowing that it is in the "Articles" forum. Or say you search the entire site for a thread on interior upholstery. You get a list of threads back, you read a few but don't see any that quite answer your question. So while still in one of the posts, you click to go to the thread's parent forum and post your question. But without noticing, you just posted a 240Z question in the 240k forum. This site has a whole lot of useful categories. Which makes it all the easier to mess up when posting. I'd hate to make it more difficult to use, in general. But the tech articles forum might be a special case. Perhaps holding articles for an admin's approval is the best answer for that one forum.