Arne

Hey any Konig Rewind owners - I know that the Konig caps don't fit on the front of the 240Zs, but I'd like to hear about what any of you are doing about it. I figure the options are to go capless, use spacers, use 280Z hubs and rotors, or something different?? Please share your solution, with pictures if appropriate. Also, if you are running the 14" Rewinds, what size tires are you using, and what suspension do you have? Any clearance issues?

Well, they all have wheels on them. But one of them only has three springs in it, no hood, driver's door, engine, transmission, differential, seats, steering wheel or wiring. And the hawthorn berries are falling all over and in it.

Hey E, I'll swap the tach from my parts car into the yellow car before I sell it and you can try mine too, if you want. P.S. - There may be people on this site too young to remember the good Sgt. Unfortunately, I'm not one of them.

Actually, I think it's a nice looking car. I've got no problem with modified cars, but sometimes they tend to be over-done. That one is clean, obviously a Z, and looks to be done right. I like it.

If the switch itself is the problem, no need to go to the boneyard and risk finding one little better than you already have. They are easily available new from the dealer, MSA or Black Dragon. And they are pretty affordable - Black Dragon (the only catalog I have with me at work) shows $19.95.

I don't think that was the author's point. That page is supposed to be a guide to people considering the purchase of that car. He was listing this site as "The" club website for 240Zs. Actually that's probably a compliment, not a slam.

Yeah, I like the six-spokes for a mildly modified 240Z. But not quite right for this car.

I've been looking at Konigs, but there are some issues for my uses. One is that I want to stay 14" and am not certain I want to go 7" wide on 14s. The other is the center cap problem on 240Zs. I'm not considering any of the later ZX wheels, none of them are vintage-looking enough for me. Otherwise I'd polish up the set of six-spokes from my parts car.

Yup, there is an automatic safety interlock switch that would have to be bypassed, but (at least on '71s) it is down in the tunnel near the transmission. There should be a pair of unused wires (both black, I believe) that need to be connected together. On my car, these were on the right side of the tunnel, in the same bundle as the backup light switch wires. But having the dash out shouldn't have affected this, as those wires are part of the engine compartment harness, and shouldn't have been disturbed during dash removal. I'd be more suspicious of the connections at the relay panel, but since my '71s don't have these relays I don't know any specifics.

I've heard of folks using the Autometer 3990, but don't know how difficult it may be to mount nicely. And you lose your turn signal indicators, of course. But if it's track only that probably isn't an issue. Here's one on eBay now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AutoMeter-3990-Sport-Comp-5-In-Dash-Tachometer_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33679QQihZ019QQitemZ8059770340QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Marty, if the car is still running fine (i.e. - no change in the spark), I suspect the tach is going. The one in my yellow car does odd things lately, and it's not even consistent. Sometimes it seems fine, then suddenly it will start reading about 1/3 of what it should, then it may just float around at random. During all this the engine (with ZX dizzy, E12-80 module) is running fine. Once when I turned the key on it pegged the needle past the red, but later that day it was fine again. These old things can be a bit fussy. You might PM Escanlon, he has a great schematic of the circuitry inside the tach, complete with types of semi-conductors used. Using that diagram, someone who knows electronics should be able to repair one.

Well, I suppose there are numerous reasons. First is the non-original issue, and that it is so difficult to "un-install" a sunroof. Some of them are pretty obtrusive, both in looks and in headroom. Then there's the issue of possible leaks. On the other hand, they were a relatively popular add-on back in the day, both by owners and some dealers. Nice ones that are well installed don't seriously impact the headroom. And they do really help with extra fresh air in the car, which can be a big plus on a car without AC. But even the really good ones do hurt the re-sale value.

I finally got some pics in my gallery, if anyone is interested. http://classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8596

And a great investment that will be! Go for it!

True story. I've got $4000 in my yellow car, which is only just now approaching being driveable. If I scrimped a bit, I could maybe get it nicely finished for another $8000, since my skill set is is different than Enrique's - I do all my own mechanical work, along with the electical and upholstery. But the body and paint I have to pay others to do for me. Realistically, I figure that I'd end up with $15-16k in that car before it was done. And when I go to sell it in a few weeks I won't get close to that $4000 back out of it.

Sounds like you are on the right track, if the goal is to have a project. As long as you are aware (and it sounds like you are) that it is ALWAYS cheaper to buy the best already done, rather than build it from scratch. But that negates the entertainment of the building process. I've done it both ways - in years past I completely restored a '67 MGB from a bare tub, last year I started rebuilding an old 240Z with the intent to do like I did on the MG, but just last week I bought a peach of a 240Z that needs minor maintenance, not rebuilding. Both approaches can be rewarding, but if you can get your son involved the rebuilding job is great.

I've got two Zs parked in the RV space, close enough...