Arne

Carbs. The carbs used on the '73 240Z and '74 260Z here in the US are not well liked. Your car (as shown in the pictures) has already had the original '73 carbs (a.k.a. flat-tops) replaced with earlier 240Z carbs (a.k.a. round-tops). So your car is not original in that manner, but probably runs much better because of it.

Try this tech article on door adjustment: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12484

I actually got both cars registered on Carl's site - the first took several tries, but the red car got posted with no drama. But actually joining the IZCC and getting a member number has proven to be far more difficult.

Bryan, I agree - in theory. But in reality, I have tried to join the IZCC (and the mailing list) at least 6 times over the past 14 months that I have been a Z owner, both using the web form, as well as e-mailing Tony Fruzza (Membership Chairman) directly, at both his zhome.com and personal addresses. Has never worked. I haven't quite given up, I tried again within the past few weeks. Still nothing.

Pictures show round-tops already on it.Nice car!

Great info. Admins, this thread should be moved to Tech Articles, it's clearly that type of post. Also, the alternator adapter developed by myself and Dave Irwin - and still available from Dave - would also work for 240Zs with this swap.

Interesting idea, with LEDs shining both directions. But I'm not sure that the light sections in a 240Z are large enough in height - even the smallest 3-bar needs more than 2 1/2". Don't have a tail light here at work to measure. http://www.spiderlite.com/

The L28 from the 1983 280ZX-NA had it, don't know about other ZXs.

Like many English cars of the '60s and '70s, I strongly suspect that the 240Z heater was not standard equipment in much of the rest of the world, only in the US. (Every tried to find an early wiring diagram that shows the heater fan wiring?) So I see no reason why you shouldn't remove it if you don't need it. Fewer hoses means fewer things to go wrong.

Oh my!! At today's exchange rates, that's about US$11,000, plus shipping from down-under. Dang that's tempting....

I sent you a PM, TomoHawk.

The normal hookup (for round-top SUs, '70-72) is to a nipple on the front carb body. I don't know if the DGVs have a vacuum port on the carb suitable for that, so the connection to the balance tube might be your only choice. I don't think that should cause any problems.

Just as an aside, apparently some of the very early cars may have been different, the 'Off' position on the top slider was not on the left. I can't recall if it was in the middle or on the right, but I have seen pictures of control panels so labeled. Also, replacement labels were available from Nissan at some point. The part numbers are: 68841-E4600, Label - Air Control; 68843-E4600, Label - Temp Control; and 68845-E4600, Label - Def Control. I tried to order a set a couple months ago, was told the numbers were good, but the parts weren't available. Lastly, note that the original labels has/had chrome-like silver lettering, which would be very hard to duplicate on a printer. I thought about trying to make some using a Brother laminated label maker, which would also have been white lettering on black.

That seems to have it covered Bruce. Your labels match my heater panel from the yellow (10/70) car.

For de-waxing I've had good results using Griot's Paint Prep which de-waxes, de-greases and de-silicones.

Pipe wrench.

How about NOS? http://www.classicgarage.com/konstrutinfo9.html

Neither hubcaps nor radios are available new any more, finding good used ones takes time. Both hubcaps and radios do turn up on eBay relatively frequently. Just be glad you're looking for the later hubcaps, and not the '70-71 style.

I think you'll find a lot more info on engine swaps at HybridZ.org.

While everyone says you should mount it in back to push, I put one in the engine compartment of my yellow car, and it works fine there. Much easier to mount and wire. No problems.

Try this site: http://zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

I agree. But I know I could have shifted that R32 faster than that! Its shift linkage isn't THAT bad!

Brendan, there's not a lot of swapping going on at this site, you'll probably get a lot more info on this stuff at HybridZ.org.

No. I have had the 280ZX ignition in my yellow car and had no problem using the 240Z tach. I know of several other people who also have the same set up, also with the 240Z tach. Yes, as long as you have the 280ZX distributor base bracket (the pedestal that bolts to the timing cover) as well. Should work fine. Don't use the resistor, the ZX ignition is designed to use full voltage at all times. Make a small jumper wire to connect the two resistor wires to each other.

I got to admit, I really like it when people put their own car on their avatar. When I was a lurker here, I really enjoyed getting these small clues as to what everyone's cars looked like. It really helped fire my enthusiasm for Zs. Which is why I have always used shots of my own car as my avatars. Of course, in the case of the yellow car I cleaned it up in Photoshop first...