Arne

If it doesn't rain I'll be there. (Forecast is encouraging so far today.) Don't know how many of the spare parts I've got will fit in the back of the red car, but I'll bring some, anyway.

Thanks, Dave. Good, clear description.

I've done it on the early cars (with the flat mustache bar) by simply pulling the two nuts holding the diff to the M-bar and dropping the front crossmember. Not too tough, I didn't think.

This should be posted in the Classifieds, not in the discussion forums.

Yup, roger that. I've got some really nice spares from the 4/71 parts car, both a good fusebox and a great combo switch. But I'll put relays on the red car anyway.

I'll measure mine a bit later this evening, if no one else posts before I get to it. Two reasons I can think of for why it's important. One is that without it the pump lever may be pushed too far which could damage the diaphram. The other is to isolate the pump from the engine temperature to reduce the fuel temp, thereby reducing hte tendency to vapor lock.

Some semi-random thoughts. My late '71 had 59,500 miles on it when I bought it last fall. I am the third owner. None of the existing fuses have the paper in them. So if the paper type are original, all of mine have been replaced in the ensuing years, which seems more proactive than my car's prior owners typically were. Not that they ignored things that were necessary, they didn't - if it needed something it got it. But if something wasn't broke, it stayed. For example, they never replaced the original dated plug wires or cloth-covered hoses in all those years. (I'm not complaining, that attitude really helped maintain the originality of the car.) So replacing every fuse (including the hidden ones for the blower, defroster and radio) at some point seems out of character for them. But it could certainly have been done. But on a related note, many of my fuses also have different constructiion than those that are available today. Mine look like modern fuses, but the metal end caps are visibly soldered on. The flat ends are soft solder, not smooth steel like the modern ones. Not sure when that method was used. But I've had one fuse failure because of the soldered ends - the blower fuse was very intermittant. I found that the soft solder ends had dimples worn in them from the spring loaded terminals in the fuse holder. A new fuse fixed the issue. But that fact that the ends were visibly worn leads me to think that soldered fuse had been in there for a LONG time. An additional thought - the paper having the country of origin maked seems a bit odd to me for 1970. I don't think that marking was common then.

Jon is probably right, a 240Z doesn't have much suspension travel even at stock height, lowering it will make that worse. I'm running stock springs with old-school Mulholland struts on my '71. The Mulhollands are rather stiff, my car's ride is fairly firm. Not harsh, but very firm. Maybe a bit to firm for a weekend cruiser, but still doable.

Not much to say. There are only two off-the-shelf adjustable shocks available for 240Zs - Tokico and Koni. Both are fairly track-oriented, and both have a reputation for being a bit stiff, as you have already found out. I don't have any personnal experience with coil-overs on a Z, but as a guess I'd say that most of those are also rather track-oriented.

Ahh! I haven't really looked at how my Series 2 cars were wired. So it sounds like the headlights on the Series 2 cars no longer switch the ground to activate the headlight circuits, but switch the power just like most other cars. Good to know.

Oops! Maybe it's not all Bryan's fault - it was I who pointed that auction out to him...

I'd visit hybridz.ORG instead. :classic:

I'm wondering about stress. Has the radiator support panel ever been hit or damaged? When you bolt in the radiator, do all the mounts fit snugly without having to "pull" it tight with the bolts? Because this does not seem like a common issue on other cars. If you have been having consistent problems, I'd lean toward something in the car itself as being the cause.

Any new info on this? I'm probably going to replace all my hoses later this spring.

May I ask why you want to change? Many people have used a 240Z tach with the MSD 6a.

I'm afraid you might not find much help here, this forum caters primarily to the original Z models, 240Z, 260Z and 280Z, built from 1969 through 1978. Your car sounds like it is a 240SX, which is a totally different breed. Not much experience with your model here.

She need a little augmentation, Bryan?

The Nissan cams were pretty much all identified by a single letter stamped on the rear end of the cam. So what you have does not sound stock. I personally have no idea what it might be. Stock cam specs: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Check your local yellow pages for a true drive-line shop. Many of them wil be able to re-machine your drive-shaft yokes to accept replacement u-joints. It may cost a bit more, but then you are starting with new u-joints, as opposed to finding a used drive-shaft with another pair of used non-replaceable u-joints.

I concur. My yellow car (10/70) has the long-tail box. Both my red car (7/71) and the parts car (4/71) came with short-tail boxes.

I have cars with both styles. As far as I have been able to see, the pigtail length is the difference. But the dash harnesses are different to match. So perhaps your car has the later dash harness as well. I don't think there is any reason you couldn't use the long-tail box, though, if you think it will fit better.

First, do some further checking before you condemn the valve seals. Your oil burning could just as easily be caused by sticky or collapsed oil scraper rings. There are at least three different versions of the E88 head. Your compression will vary depending on which version you have. All E88 versions have smaller exhaust valves than what you have now, and all but the one that came on the 260Z have smaller intake valves as well. In short, the E88 may not be the ideal replacement, but will work. But I'd recommend finding out for sure what the issue really is before slapping on a different head.

I think it means their site has been suspended.... They are apparently paying a provider to serve as their web host. Could be an accounting error, or...

Your Enkei's are Type 92. Very common in the mid-80s. Welcome!

Good comments here. I've got two things to add. One is that the early 240Zs ('70-71) definitely called for premium fuel. And that was in the day when there really WAS premium fuel. I don't know about the requirements of the later 240Zs when the compression was lowered a bit. Second is that the idle speed spec on the early cars was 700-800 RPM. If your car is idling faster than that, I'd try dropping it down some. Although, a faster idle is a common workaround for worn carbs. Throttle shaft air leaks are less noticable at higher RPMs.