Arne

I honestly don't know if that's a good price or not, as I haven't been pricing that kind of package for my cars. But doesn't seem out of line at all to me. I now have the KYBs in with my original factory springs. As expected, the ride height went up about 1/4" or so. I also have a set of the repro Euro springs I could put in if I want to firm it up a bit more. We'll see how it goes after I drive it this way a while. I have driven Gary's (beandip's) 240Z with KYBs and the Euro springs (cut down to adjust ride height) and the ride was still acceptable. So either the original or the Euro springs seem to work fine with the KYBs.

KYB specifically recommends against using their GR-2 struts with lowering springs. I tried that once before (non-Datsun application) and the results were bad. I'm a bit fan of matched sets of springs and shocks, as that way you are assured that the spring rates and shock valving are compatible. And the Mulhollands I took out last Thursday are already spoken for. I actually arranged that before I ordered the KYBs.

While we're on this, I've got a really good (uncracked) plastic one I don't need as well.

No, Jason. Just the '70 and '71 240Z's have the odd early master cylinder. Your late '72 has the later cylinder with the front brakes supplied by the rear reservoir. I believe that is the same as the ZX cylinder, and you shouldn't have to reverse the lines.

Try these. Not my car, just some pictures I've kept for future reference.

Mid-year in '71. Both my 10/70 and the 4/71 parts car had plastic, but the 7/71 has metal. So somewhere between April and July of '71.

Yup. I've got two early cars now, one with the proper cylinder and one with the later cylinder. The later cylinder does require the lines to be swapped at the master cylinder. My red car was in the exact same boat as yours when I bought it. The previous owner had a shop replace the master cylinder and they used the later one without swapping the lines. It worked, but the brake balance wasn't right. I bought the correct cylinder from Nissan to correct the issue. The 'wrong' cylinder went on my other car (which will never be more than a nice driver, at best) with the lines reversed.

Oh, I'm pretty certain it would fit in the car. But pretty much everything else would need to be changed along with it. The choke assembly, defroster switch, fuse cover, etc. There is also a possibility that the hole for the shift boot/lever is farther forward on the later consoles to match the Type B shift lever position. Might need a bit of tweaking there too.

The choke lever assembly is completely different as well. Best to stick with the early style console, which was used through 7/71 build at least, perhaps into 8/71.

If you folks coming from the North can estimate what time you'll be getting off I-5, maybe Deanna and I could try to hook up with the group there, and join the caravan.

The clip is a secondary retainer, not the main event. The adhesive is the main part. The stud is a molded part of the center chrome trim, and is vacuum plated white plastic. After all these years, that plastic is soft and fragile. Once you get the outer clip off, you'll have to pry the lens loose from the backing. You'll be surprised at how tough that adhesive is, and how hard it is to separate the lens. I had to use a 3" putty knife to break the adhesive bond and pry against the backing plate. Once the lens is removed, you'll see that the chrome strip is attached to the lens with three more metal spring clips. These are more standard type clips, and are easier to get at to remove them. But again, the studs are plastic, so be careful.

Man, I wish I could find 240Zs in the yards around here.

You have found the hardest part of this job. Getting the clip off without breaking the plastic stud. The safest way to approach this is to damage, cut or break the clip, rather than to try to remove it. Removal almost always breaks the stud. Using tools like dental picks or similar, try to lift the opposite edges of the clip. Then use a long-nose pliers to squeeze the clip until it deforms or breaks. Even doing this, there's still a chance that the stud might break. If it does, for non-show car use, you can drill a small hole the chrome trim piece where the stud was, then use a small head black screw and nut to replace the stud and clip. (I did this on my yellow car.) It's not pristine or original, but it works well, is serviceable and is darned hard to see the difference unless it's in your face.

Probably on consignment, owner may have a relative who works there, etc.On the other hand, I like VWs. I've owned several, all of the sportier varieties. GTIs, GLIs, Sciroccos, and a Corrado. And if I had room, I'd love to find an R32.

What Carl said. Values will be a lot less if it's been visibly used, though. If nothing else, the original narrow wheels and tires are the only things that fit properly in the 240Z spare tire well. I had a 5 1/2" in my yellow 240Z when I got it, and a 6" in the red 240Z. Neither fit, the spare tire cover sits above the floor. I got a slightly scruffy stock 4 1/2" with an 80% 175HR14 Michelin XAS with my parts car, and that is now in my red car. I'd actually love to have one like you found with a nice original tire on it. But it's still not high on my list right now. The wheel should have a date code stamped on it, near the word 'TOPY'. Will also have the size, either 4 1/2 or 5" wide. As shown here:

Sounds like a power booster problem to me. When you step on the brake pedal you are causing a vacuum leak that lets the idle increase. Try disconnecting and plugging the hose to the power booster and seeing if that makes a difference.

Intake and exhaust use a singe integrated manifold gasket. So the intake must come off as well.

Randy, the dust caps on my red car (7/71) are also the dark finish you describe. I think they are original, so there has probably been a change in finish at the factory.

Neither quick, nor easy, nor is there any single concrete answer. The volume of cylinder head discussions on this and other sites would fill several fat books. You'll need to do some searching here and decide which will work better for you.

Brian's tires are Toyo Proxes 4. Since he lives here in the NW also, he got them at Les Schwab. I have those same tires in 225/45-17 on our family sedan ('96 328i). Very pleased with them. I think his rims are 15" but don't know that for certain.

Since I come from the South, there's not much sense trying to include me in a cruise to get there. I have to come a completely different route. But you might hook up with some of the other PDX-area people to drive down together Sunday morning.Anyone heard whether the Northbound Canby exit will be open by then?

You don't. Your question remains so that other people searching the site might benefit from the answer as well. That's what makes the search feature on this site so valuable - years and years of questions and answers.

Especially on the later cars like 280Zs, I like the old Vitaloni mirrors that were popular in the late '70s and '80s. They are still available, too. The nicest ones in my opinion were the 'Baby Turbo' and 'Californian'. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=MIRRORSVINT

My appreciation goes to Dave and Bruce for sharing the organizers' side of the story. And it is much as I imagined, so no surprises for me. As I mentioned, my wife and I will be there on Sunday to mill around and mingle. I'll be happy to pay the $5 parking fee, last year my only 240Z was not in running order, so I parked the (non-Nissan) family sedan across the street. This year the red car will be cleaned and ready for public viewing, so parking inside will be a treat. Hmm. I was pretty certain that Don Anderson trailered his white 240Z. Could be mistaken, though.

My all stock '71 is exactly the same. Cold running is not so hot (pun intended). This is why they designed them to have a hand throttle. To bad the Feds didn't understand.