Arne

Lower profile is the part that changes the speedo, unless you use larger diameter wheels as well. Best 14" sizes for an early Z to maintain reasonable speedo accuracy are 195/70-14 and 215/60-14. The 215/60s are wider and just a touch shorter. I have the 195/70s on mine.

Yeah, I should have quoted the question when I answered.

No, an early Toyota Corolla. Second generation, to be more precise. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Corolla#Second_Generation_.E2.80.94_E20_series_.E2.80.94_1970

The wheels appear to be Superior turbine-style with E-T centercaps. Should be 14x6 in size. The Superior turbine style is a bit unique in that the vanes go all the way into the center, and they don't have a non-vaned area around the lugs. Beandip has a set on his 240Z, which is the only set I've seen in person for 20 years or more. However that doesn't make them monstrously valuable as while some people really like them, many are rather ambivalent to that style. If they are in really great (read shiny and un-tarnished) condition figure no more than $50 each, or $200 for the set. Dull finish, corrosion and curb rash (if any) will drop their value considerably. The old Tiger Paws are mostly curiosities, and won't have much value to Z restorers at all. Tires of that age are not useable (read as unsafe) on the road due to aging of the rubber, and the high likelihood that the steel belts will have lost their bond to the tread and/or tire carcass (a problem those Tiger Paws exhibited even when they were still in production). As for the vintage look, that might be valid for someone restoring an early '70s GM car where those tires were frequently used as original equipment. But for Zs what people are looking for (generally) is original Bridgestone or Toyo tires.

It's called 'leeching' in the web development community. The pictures must be posted on some other website somewhere (CarDomain in the example above) and then you can insert the address of the image using the[ img ] [ /img ] tags. Extra spaces inserted to make the tags display. The only problem with leeching is that if the original ever moves or is deleted, users on the sites doing the leeching can't see it anymore. If you search through old posts here and see broken image icons or red Xs, that's what's happened. The original leeched picture is moved, re-named or gone. So for an example, if I enclose the following url of a picture off my own website inside those tags, I get the picture shown just below it. The picture actually still lives on my website, it's just displayed here. http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/images/canby07-3.jpg

As mentioned in the thread linked above, that will very a lot depending on how thorough you are, and how much you have to pay for the transmission and other parts. As a guess, I'd figure on $500 or a bit more, figuring you'll need a new clutch, a used transmission and flywheel and other parts. Read the entire thread linked above.

Except the size that is listed is the size of the insulator, not the conductor. Larger wires have more insulation, and therefore more of the spark makes it to the plug, rather than leaking out on the way. For a car with a normal ignition, there is really not much difference between the sizes, unless you have an incredibly hot coil. I'd go with whatever good name brand looks good to you. I've got NGK 7mm on my red car, they seem fine, and I've observed no spark leakage after dark.

Was the car originally an automatic, by chance?

Re: the sunroof - No, there was never any 'stock' or factory offered sunroof. Yours (like mine) was added later by a dealer or former owner.

Try the outfit in the post below. They specialize in hard to find caps. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=191337&postcount=16

Early period aftermarket, not "original" in the true sense of the word. Coco mats were common in the aftermarket in the early 70s.

No, the stub axle is the flanged part that the rear wheel bearings support in the hubs. They are both sides the same.

Dave's headlight relays don't fit 280Zs, so they aren't applicable for the original poster's car.

I agree with both Steve and Carl above. If you are looking for a nice early 240Z, this is the kind of car to buy. Yes, it could be restored to new (or better than new) condition fairly easily. And for that type of project, starting with one like this is absolutely the way to go. Because you already have it all, it just needs cleaned and refurbished. On the other hand, I really like Steve's post too. That car is already original, and will never be that way again. Buy it, garage it, and drive it. Maybe have the few exterior flaws professionally repaired, and there you go. Some of you may remember that I already made this same decision about a year ago. I was a year into a rolling refurb on my yellow Series 1 when I came across my red 240Z. Mine is not a Series 1, had 60k miles instead of 40k, and the paint is/was not as nice. But I made the decision to buy mine based on the fact that there was no way to make my yellow car as nice as the red car already was for anywhere close to the cost of buying the red car. And the car in that auction is even nicer in some ways than mine. Definitely better paint, and it doesn't have the sunroof that mine has. Mine is cleaner and nicer under the hood though, and that's harder to make right than the body is. At this age the difference between 40k and 60k documented original miles is insignificant. If I didn't have my red car yet, and knowing what I now know, I'd be seriously tempted by this car despite the fact it's on the far side of the continent. I'd buy it, maybe fix the paint and bumper, replace the carpet and enjoy it. Somebody should jump on this one.

Call Joe or Jordan at Lithia Nissan Parts in Eugene at 541-686-2211, tell 'em you're with the 240Z club. That's only 40 miles down the freeway from you, so no shipping costs.

Jim ordered them from his local Nissan dealer.

I'm sure there's a story here that you're not sharing...

Gary, I bought my first module from the guy in the link above. He rebuilds lots of other Z electricals, but the modules he simply cleans and tests. It came to me very clean...

When I did the transmission and engine swap from the parts car into my yellow car, I moved the one clip from the parts car into the yellow car. Oddly, my red car (with only 60k miles) had two of those clips, one on each of the two top bellhousing to engine bolts. One sure seems to be sufficient, though.

Using the forum's built-in search function is Faster than posting your question in a new thread, as you get to read the old replies immediately and don't have to wait for new answers. So being in a hurry is no excuse...

You may not like my thoughts, but here they are. 1.) If it is truly non-rusty, I can't see any reason why a straight and mostly unmolested Z of any year isn't worth at least $3250. Price out having rust repair done - I have recently and it's not pretty. 2.) Your interest is to flip it? That intent - by definition - means you think it has more value than the price you can buy it for. So if the guy won't budge, there you go. Maybe it's not the car for someone who's just trying to make a few bucks. But it sounds like it might be a great car for someone who wants a Z to drive.

PM sent.

Good to see that mine aren't the only red-spattered gearboxes here. I hadn't put any thought into the lower splotch being 'L' shaped, but that seems to be consistent so far. Don't know what that means, though. Another thought on the larger spot on the bell housing - I wonder if (since it is so visible from under the hood) some owners might have removed that one at some point in the past? Seems a bit unlikely that my two gearboxes have both red marks (or their remnants) but no one else's has the bell housing mark? I'd sure be interested in hearing from other Type A tranny owners on this. But if the lower 'L' mark is the common one, it'll almost need to be Type A owners whose transmissions are out of the car...

Cats for me (us). While Deanna and I have had as many as 5 at once in the past, we decided a few years back that the number of cats should be the same as the number of available human laps to sit on at night. So for the past several years we're at two cats while our son was off to college. (The son has returned, we hope only temporarily, so no cat for him.) The small (9 lb.) black and white cat is Patches (named for obvious reasons), who has selected my wife's lap as hers. She is pictured below perched on top of the drapery where she's not supposed to be, but she has the gift of levitation and can attain such lofty positions totally effortlessly. She also must have a Romulan cloaking device as she can sneak into and out of rooms and through doors without anyone noticing even if we're trying to pay attention. The much larger (15 lb.) gray cat is Tuvok, named so because as a kitten he seemed aloof and emotionless - a typical Vulcan, we thought. (Plus we just thought it was a cool name for a cat.) Turns out we were wrong, and he is the most laid-back, easy-going cat we have ever shared our house with. In the first picture below he is pretending to be Lord-of-all-he-surveys. In the second he reveals an oddity - he is a cat of good taste. He loves to hang out in the presence of Datsun parts, especially wiring. Here he is sleeping next to the dash out of the yellow 240Z in the spare bedroom. Despite all the obvious differences, the two are litter mates. Go figure.

They might make Stephen happy at first glance, since they ARE the style that Darb is after. But they are also the wrong bolt pattern and won't fit a Z. Unlike the early four-lug Mustangs and Falcons which used the same 4-4.5" pattern as our Zs, the later Pinto/Mustang II cars used a 4-4.25" pattern instead.Closer, but still no cigar!