Arne

Undoubtedly a 205/60R13 Wingfoot. The original Goodyear Wingfoot was a Americanized version of the European Goodyear NCT (Neutral Contour Tire). The NCT was steel belted, the Wingfoot was Aramid (aka Kevlar) belted. Both shared the same tread design. The NCT was blackwall only, but the Wingfoots all had the narrow white pinstripe and lettering as shown. Most Wingfoot buyers couldn't handle the white stripe on performance tire, and had them mounted black side out. The Wingfoot was a good performing tire, as American-made tires went, but the NCT (which was OE on Porsche and others) was still better. The Wingfoot was eventually replaced in the US by the Eagle GT.

That pretty much covers it. The resistor by-pass is technically optional, but doing that will allow hotter spark. I hooked the single wire that went to the points dizzy to the "C" terminal, and ran a new wire from the (+) terminal of the coil to the "B" terminal on the module. Or you could run a new wire from the (-) terminal of the coil to the "C" terminal, whichever way works best for you.

Justin, you need a special turbo exhaust manifold. Can't use an off-the-shelf header. Puts the turbo too far downstream.

New tanks are no longer available, haven't been for years. I have no experience with coating them, but many others here have. Lots of them have done it themselves with excellent results. Try searching the forum for 'fuel tank coating' for a starter.

What John said above, with the addition that even all that might not be enough, you might need spacers even with coilovers. The rears will have 5 3/4" back spacing, and fronts 5 5/8"! That's a lot for a Z.

And when I got my driver's license, brand new 240Zs were still being sold...

Norm at Zeddsaver can re-plate them, but I do believe it is expensive. Zeddsaver just did a pair for a7dz, perhaps he'll see this and chime in.

Justin, 13" wheels won't fit of the front brakes on a Z. So yours almost have to be 14". For performance use you'll want 15" or 16". Personally, I LIKE the old school look on a Z, but then, I'm not so young myself anymore...

I just thought of something - any thoughts to making the black plastic hemispherical antenna base? The originals all seem to suffer from UV damage by now.

Yes, the distributor shaft needs to spin at half engine speed. Sounds to me as if either the distributor shaft is bad, or perhaps the oil pump drive shaft (which is what drives the distributor) is bad. Step one - remove the distributor and see if the shaft in the hole where the distributor goes spins while cranking. If it doesn't, you need to drop the oil pump and check the drive shaft. If it does spin, you've got a bad distributor. Or perhaps a distributor which came loose and not fully bolted down.

It's been for sale for at least a year, if not more. Price is too high, at least for the West Coast. http://bringatrailer.com/2007/12/07/period-styled-1971-datsun-240z-in-la/#more-116

Oops! I missed this request earlier. I zipped the full-size scan and attached it here where it can be downloaded.white face gauge my own printable 4 25.JPG.zip

This should be in the Classifieds, not here in the forums.

Say what?!?

I repaired my first 240Z's clock using the instructions found here: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18442

You know, Mike? I have also thought that mandrel bends might not be necessary for my application as well. You're right, it does look nicer, but what you described would still be far better than the 1 3/4" squash bent system now on the car. I'll PM you my address, I'd love to see some pictures. Or you could just post them here for all to see.

I'm almost certain that I will end up having it built locally. Problem is that - in my neck of the woods - doing it the way I want is not just a little more, but quite a lot more. I've only got one shop around here that does mandrel bending, and they are quite proud of their work. They've quoted me $400-500 to do what I want: aluminized 2" or maybe 2 1/4" with a resonator and a round Dynomax in the rear. (I don't need 2 1/2" for a bone-stock L24.) I keep hoping I'll find something mass-produced that would be close enough to what I want. But I don't think it's going to happen.

It will leak, but it won't completely un-do what you did on the bench. The purpose of bench bleeding is to get the air out of the master cylinder valving, not to be totally ready to go. You will still need to bleed the lines at the master cylinder after final installation.To minimize the leakage, I normally bench bleed, then re-insert the shipping plugs while I move the cylinder from the bench and into the car.

Figures. I'd like a smaller diameter system both to keep the noise level down and because a bone-stock L24 doesn't need a 2 1/2" exhaust. And I'm trying to avoid the over-under Ansa look. I was looking at the specs on Dynomax's web site - the muffler MSA provides has side and center outlets? Would it make things easier to fit the muffler if it had side outlets on both ends? (Not both on the same side, but staggered.)

Any new updates on this thread? Comments on sound (volume and tone)? Pictures of how the muffler finally fits?

The basic pushrod setting should be the same for any master cylinder that is properly designed to fit your year Z, regardless of maker. That said, the reason that such things are adjustable is to make allowances for things like different manufacturers with slightly differing manufacturing tolerances. So a small adjustment might be needed.

I've been in touch with Mike today and I'll be looking at the server log files and running some diagnostics this evening, in an attempt to find the root cause of the recent crashes. No promises yet, folks.

I don't think restarting Apache will do it, as these last site outages over the weekend were deeper than that. Mike has granted me the ability to do some remote administration of the server, so I can restart Apache if needed. Actually did that a few times a few months back, when that was a problem. But these last couple of outages were different, I couldn't contact the server at all. Nothing I could do.

Mike, your deeper dish could be from offset, but is more likely simply due to them being 7" wide, as opposed to the more typical 6" width. Don't get me wrong, I do like slots. I'm just not certain I like them quite as much as a few other styles. Especially on the red car, we've gotten used to it with fairly flashy rims on it (first the chrome wire wheels it came with, now the fully polished wire mags). Plus I'd need to buy a new set of tires for them, the current tires aren't really wide enough for 7" rims. I have considered just buying the new rims anyway, but I don't really have a good place to store them, I don't think my wife would be amused at me putting even more Datsun parts in the spare bedroom...

Thanks for the info, guys.LanceM - the airdam on your car probably has more clearance up front than the stock valance corners on my car. However, your results are still encouraging as I believe the wire mags you run have the same offset as the slots, and you are running larger tires than I would. MikeW - I'm not sure if your results help much, as I seem to recall that the US Indy's did have a more typical zero offset, not the -10 or so of the Appliances. I was also hoping to avoid having to go that small on the tire size. And again, your airdam (as shown in your avatar) probably has more clearance than my valances. I dunno. Still waffling. Neither the size (14x7) nor the style (slots) are my first choice for replacement wheels. Not that I hate slots, I don't. But still not my first choice. But I'm still attracted to the thought of NOS.