Arne

If the transmission is in neutral, turning the engine might well turn the input shaft at the same time, and never get lined up. The engine has much more resistance to turning, so if you turn the transmission you are unlikely to move the engine with it.

No no! Don't try to start the motor! And even turning it by hand is not the best way to do it. Instead, put the transmission in gear, any gear. Then slip the driveshaft in the rear and spin the transmission using the driveshaft.

First, pumping the throttle on SUs does absolutely nothing. They don't have accelerator pumps. In fact, you should not use the throttle at all during starting. Just leave it alone until the motor starts and stabilizes. What all did they do to it? Did they adjust the valves? Perhaps the valves are adjusted too tight?

Very possible. That's where my red car came from. The former owner lives less than three blocks away from me. I drive past his place several times per week. I had no clue he had a Z, until he walked up to me one day while I was working on the yellow car in my driveway, introduced himself and told me he had a 240Z he wanted to sell, and asked if I had any idea how to contact other Z people.Make's you wonder how many of them are scattered throughout the Western states unseen in garages.

There is no difference in the clutch itself between mechanical and hydraulic. The clutch fork, pressure plate and release bearing all work exactly the same as a cable or linkage operated clutch. If the clutch won't disengage, you have one of two issues - either the hydraulic system has a problem (air in the system, bad cylinder at one end or the other), or there is a problem with the mechanical parts inside. While you could conceivably have a bent clutch fork or something like that, it is FAR more likely that the hydraulics aren't working properly. Clutch hydraulics are no big mystery, they work exactly the same as the rear brake cylinders do. All the same procedures and methods apply.

I hear ya. The front Schnitzer wheels on the 328i are nearly black looking from brake dust. Too damn wet and cold to get motivated to wash it.Shoot, even the Z is covered with road spray grime, 'cause it does get driven now and again, even if it's wet out.

Gary, you've a got a bit of a mean streak, don't you?

This could be interesting, although I don't know how valuable it might be since so many flat-tops have been scrapped by now. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bks/638553825.html The body of the ad:

No doubt. But lots more people already own timing lights.

Or you can use an inductive timing light to test for spark. More easily found that the inline spark checker.

Can I just have the carbs?

OK, I can't quite fathom why you could get reverse, but the clutch is not working. The next step will require a second body. With the engine off, have someone press the pedal in and out while you watch to see if the slave cylinder on the transmission is moving the end of the clutch fork. If the clutch fork moves, something is wrong inside the clutch. But more than likely, you have a stuck piston in the master cylinder, or one or both of the cylinders are bad.

Also, remember that if the car lurches forward when you start it in gear that pressing the clutch WON'T STOP IT. If it starts moving forward, turn off the ignition and stand on the brake!

I'm having a bit of difficulty pinning this on the clutch if you can shift into reverse. The process for forward and reverse is the same. If the area in front of the car is clear, you could try putting it in first or second with the engine off, then try to start it with the clutch pedal depressed. Be vary cautious with this, as if there is a clutch problem the car could lurch forward even with the pedal depressed. If the car starts normally (no lurching forward), then carefully try to move forward. Please try this and report back what happened. Also, remember that if the car lurches forward when you start it in gear that pressing the clutch WON'T STOP IT. If it starts moving forward, turn off the ignition and stand on the brake!

If the starter won't turn it over, that's not gas, or anything to do with fuel or spark. That sounds like a bad starter to me. They can sometimes work when they are cool, but bind up when they are warm or hot.

But with the engine running and the car stationary, you can shift into reverse, but not into any of the other gears?

It's been a long, cold, wet winter here in Western Oregon as well. Nothing like what you folks up north are dealing with, but worse than recent years here. But they're claiming it should start to break later today, mid-60s tomorrow and mid-70s on Saturday. I can't wait. Of course, the rain will probably return next week...

Remember that loop is not correct for all Series 2 cars. Mine (37705, 7/71) is pretty much cut pile, not loop.

I'll be interested in seeing the pictures, and also in finding out who made them. Are they loop or cut pile?

Brian called it, the big thing appears to be exemption from inspections. http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/Inspections/VehiclesExempt.htm Since there are no inspections at all in my part of Oregon, I didn't even consider inspections.

Not familiar with NJ requirements, but there may be insurance ramifications as well. I've heard stories of claims being denied because an insured vehicle with 'Historic' registration was damaged while being used outside the 'Historic' approved uses. So you need to weigh the benefits against the restrictions and possible issues. I don't know what benefits the QQ gives you. Here in Oregon the restrictions for 'Special Interest' or 'Antique' registration are similar to what you outlined. The possible downsides are possible citations if used outside the allowed uses, and the possible insurance issues I mentioned above. The benefits are a one-time cost (never expires), and being able to use period plates. I wanted the period plates, but was not willing to accept the other downsides. Here in Oregon I had another option - I can (and do) have period plates registered as vanity plates instead. It costs me a lot more (especially over time) than the 'Special Interest' registration, but I have no restrictions.

Glad we could help, Mike.

On the fender emblem, sometimes you can reach one of the studs from the inside of the fender through the wheel opening, and carefully push it out to get the removal started.

Yes, Dave. But some other docs on the web tell you to connect the original wire for the points dizzy to the 'B' terminal, not to run a new wire. On a manual tranny car, the effect is the same, in fact that's what I did on my red car. But on an automatic, the two wires to the dual-point dizzy don't both work all the time. So on an auto car, you need a separate wire, using either of of the originals leads to problems.

Wups! Is the car now - or was it originally - an automatic? If so, only one of those two wires will work to fire it. You may need to re-group and run a separate new wire from the + on the coil to the B terminal on the module. This will by-pass the dual-point shenanigans the automatics used.