Arne

Most certainly.

If parts are sold new on eBay, that always means I can buy them from my local dealer for far less (often half), and pay no shipping.

My wife bought a '74 B210 hatch (4 speed) in late '75 or so, shortly out of high school. We drove that car on our honeymoon on '77, sweltering in the August SoCal heat (no A/C) but getting in excess of 35 MPG. Sold it in '79 to raise a down payment on our first house. It was a fine car really, did exactly what it was designed to do, no more, no less.

I believe Stephen is correct. The return spring was only used on the early cars with the adjustable slave pushrod.

Not long. I took it to the painter about a week after getting it back. The details of that are in this thread:http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30588 Yeah, all S30 coupes (not 2+2s) have the same roof skin.

I split this out into a separate thread, since it wasn't tire related. Here's what I did, others are welcome to chime in if they did something different. I ended up with 9 stainless bolts across the front. Each bolt has a large fender washer both above and below, to distribute the stress. The first picture shows where I drilled the holes.

I downloaded it, converted it to a jpg, and tried to reduce the glare on one copy. I've attached both jpg versions here to save the download for others.

I think the fuel tank on the '77-78s is larger.

Edit: Will types faster than I do... Welcome, Kris. This forum is much broader than HybridZ. There are members here who have Zs with engine swaps and other wild things, pure race Zs, bone-stock trailer queens, and everything in between. The typical 240Z here is going to have at least a few mods, so don't be afraid of researching things like that here. The archives are PACKED with info on most anything that can be done to a Z, so play with the Search function a bit to get a feel for what you can find. A couple of tips for your search. It is going to be difficult to find a rust-free example in your neck of the woods. They can still be found here in the West with a little effort, so you may want to consider a visit to the left coast for your search. Also, while it has been said in various places that the '72 240Z is the 'preferred' year, I'd strongly recommend that you don't limit yourself to that single model year. It is true that the '72s have several improvements over the '70 and '71s, and don't have the government-required slightly larger bumpers and despised emissions-carbs of the '73s. But most of the improvements can be installed on the earlier cars, and the '73s are even better yet once you swap for the earlier carbs. The same is true of the early (small-bumper) 260Zs, swap the carbs and they are great cars. Since rust is such an important issue, if you find a rust-free car, don't worry about what year it is - just buy it!

When I had my car painted a couple months back, the painter did get paint that was 'theoretically' a match for Nissan 905 red. He still ended up tinting it to match the un-faded interior areas - including and especially the underside of the tool compartment lids. The results were great, and the car's color now looks correct. 280Z's don't have tool compartments in the rear deck? I didn't realize that.

All Zs in the US came with three point belts, even the first 240Zs. (They weren't retractable until '73, though.) Three point belts were required by the DOT starting in 1968 or thereabouts.

Nothing at all. Drove it to dinner this evening. Installed the headliner a few weeks ago. Haven't seen any signs at all of a potential problem. Don't expect any at this point, either. Looked at now from a distance of several months, having the roof skinned just prior to the re-paint was probably the best thing I could have done to this car. Money well spent.

They come out of the harness bundle on the steering column, and both wires are typically green with a white trace. At least, that is true on a '71. A '72 might be different.

I will admit that if I were to attend, no trailers would be involved. My 240Z would easily handle a 5000 mile road trip. Me? Not so much...

One other thing that will affect whether they rub or not is whether you have a stock valance or an air dam. Air dams typically have more clearance.

Yeah, I was. For over 20 years. But that ended just over 10 years ago, so my knowledge of any brands that I haven't personally used lately is rather dated.That said, 10 years ago Cooper was a very conservative company, no true performance offerings at all. Most of their tires were quite durable, but they also tended to be heavy, and not overly grippy. Not sure that my observations mean much today,, as much has changed in the past 10 years. FWIW.

I actually tried that, but found that the satin clear did a rather poor job of dulling the finish. Still looked glossy when it was done.I ended up using the expensive paint from Classic Datsun as I noted earlier. Even with that, I had to apply the final coats very dry to keep the gloss down and retain some texture.

I for one find it somewhat refreshing to see this 'hot' topic with lots of back and forth barking, and not once has anyone mentioned not liking Alan's attitude! Seriously folks, we all need to lighten up some. Mike is right about being respectful to the few ladies who visit, but that should really be extended to all users.

For a wider selection of performance rubber, you might want to consider 205/55-15 as well. Yes, it's a bit shorter than stock, but not too much. Still no clearance problems. If you do go 205/55, I'm partial to Toyos, either Proxes 4 or Proxes T1-R.

The front grill was the same color as the rear panels. All of these parts were originally a medium-dark, matte finish gray. You can a pre-mixed spray can from Classic Datsun Motorsports that is designed to be a very close custom match to the original color, but it runs $28 per can + shipping. If strict originality is not required, there are plenty of commercially available graphite colors that would look acceptable, although finding one that isn't a gloss finish can be tougher. (Gloss just doesn't look right to me, personally.)

Location. Too far away.

I didn't ask for the "Super Moderator" title, I prefer "Moderator-at-Large". But apparently we moderators can't edit our own titles, not even Super Moderators! Probably, yes. Don't ask me to do stand up....

Actually, I'd have to say that's the correct attitude. :laugh: Don't take any of this too seriously. Wick's car's VIN is well known, #3547. Where the car is now is a different story.

I bought a set at a local parts house from the Dorman hardware bins. I remember that they were 6mm, but can't recall the thread pitch. It was pretty standard, though.

I'm with Jon on this one. The ride height can't be affected by whether the springs are upside down or not. I say this not only from theory, but also from several years of experience selling and installing Eibach springs. I've done them both ways - no difference.