Arne

I'm with Walter. I don't buy any new parts from eBay, only used and truly hard-to-find stuff.

Just realized I didn't think to check for matching engine number. Doh!

I'm going to buck the trend here. I rather like it. Paint the air dam yellow to match, de-chrome it and use fiberglass bumpers painted the dark color. I think that would pop!

Courtesy sold those remaining seven sets at about $270 per set of four, IIRC. The pre-order was less.

A few pictures, since someday the ads and the dealer's web page listing will be gone.

Hey all, I saw this ad in Craigslist yesterday, and since I drive past this dealer twice a day, I figured I'd take a peek. http://eugene.craigslist.org/ctd/905488827.html More pictures can be seen at: http://executiveauto.com/fullListing.php?stock=C6259# The car is on consignment, and they'd probably take $6300 for it. After looking it over, here's what I saw that isn't shown in the pictures. First, it's black now, but was born silver. Paint job is strictly driver quality, probably a 10 footer. Still very stock, has the original radio and the normal Series 1 parts. Was built 10/70, VIN in the 12s. A couple of cracks in the dash, freshly rebuilt seats (fairly nice, new foam?). The wheels are not American Racing, probably Shelby's. The antenna is a 280Z unit, but works fine. The biggie - my quick inspection showed no obvious signs of serious rust. The tarmat has been removed in the passenger side, at a quick glance the floorpan looked quite solid. If it needs anything at all it should be easily patchable. Frame rails and under the battery looked OK from the outside too. Hatch tray is less convincing, but still looked solid. The dealer says pictures of the underside while on a lift are available via e-mail. My disclaimer - I don't know the car's owner, have not driven the car, never bought from this dealer, etc., etc. I've actually never run into this car locally before now, either. On the whole, if you are wanting a Series 1 to restore to original, this may be more work than it's worth, although it does have a lot of original Series 1 parts still on it. But if you are in the market for a 240Z to clean up and use as a nice weekend or even daily driver, this might be a good car to start with.

Since this post I have completely changed my suspension - I'm now using the Euro springs from Courtesy (cut down as needed for near-stock ride height) with KYBs. My experience is the same as Gary's quoted above - firm and sporty, but not harsh. A good real world choice, IMO. I got in on the first buy for the Euros and am very glad I did. While I don't need another set, I think a second small production run might be well received. I highly recommend these for daily use.

#5389 is an automatic??

Yup. I've never been all that much into power and speed as I have been into handling. I don't think I want to count how many cars I've ruined as daily drivers by installing a radical suspension. Not going there again. The 240Z has KYBs and cut-down Euro springs (sits at stock height), and rides fine for the way I will use it. Plus I still have the stock springs just in case...

I purchased my red car with 59,500 miles on it. It was very original, save for the wheels, exhaust and a sunroof. I've gone both ways on mine. I had the roof re-skinned when I had it painted, which is/was a huge step back towards stock. But I have also made numerous small mods to improve daily drive-ability and/or reliability. Things like the front Spook, H4 headlights, lighting relays, period-correct AM/FM/Cassette deck, plastic cooling fan, Euro springs and KYBs, etc. Of course, like many of the other posters in this thread, I've packed up and saved all the original parts - headlights, plug wires, fan and fan clutch, radio and antenna, etc. Now that the roof is in one piece again, about the only thing on the car which is not easily reversible is the spoiler, because of the mounting holes in the valance. Again, like many here, I tend to drive my car a reasonable amount. I've put 3000 miles per year on it since I got it. It is a very pleasant touring car now, and I intend to keep it that way for the foreseeable future. But those original parts are irreplaceable, so in my mind they must be retained.

Well, then this may not apply to 260Zs. But automatic-equipped 240Zs had dual points and some relays and such to give a different advance curve while the engine was warming up. If there was something similar on 260Zs....

Question - what distributor do you have in the car? Is it a dual-point as used on 240Z automatics? Did the 260Z use points at all?

Normal, if you didn't drain the tranny prior to the job. The rear seal runs on the slip yoke of the driveshaft. With the driveshaft out, you've got a huge hole in the rear serving as a pour spout. Don't forget to refill once you get it back in place and the driveshaft in place. I'd also recommend loosening the filler plug NOW, while the transmission is out of the car.

No, the ZX is a totally different body/chassis. Not even close.

Looks like shipping protectant (cosmoline) which yellows badly over time.

Yeah. I'd see about modifying the one you now have. I had the u-joints replace on my 240Z's driveshaft and had it balanced. Cost about $90. Add that to the cost of a used driveshaft. Might be money ahead to do the one you already have.

Probably. Have you called them to ask?

Yes, the 72-74 should bolt right in. The 70-71 is about an inch shorter.

I'm pretty sure that my former 10/70 car also had the larger studs, but I can't confirm that. If so, the change over was probably between 7/70 and 10/70.

I haven't rebuilt Datsun horns, but I have rebuilt the horns on an early MGB, which looked much the same. If the horn can be disassembled (screws or rivets holding it together), you should be fine to rebuild. Because generally all they need is to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. There's not much in there to wear out.

Earlier cars used the smaller stud ball joints. Not certain which month they changed from the small to the larger. I know that they used the smaller through at least 6/70 (as that is what a7dz's car is), but had changed by 4/71 (as those were what the steering knuckles I got for his car came from). The smaller ball joints are supposed to be difficult, if not impossible to find. If your car came with the smaller studs and you can't find the correct ones, you'll need a pair of steering knuckles from a later car. What is your car's production date?

The Datsun 720 4X4 trucks used a 4.11 R180 in the front.

Man, that is some really fine stuff! Thank goodness I don't need or want most of it, though. My wife would make me replace the floor in the kitchen if I bought any of the pricier parts. I am thinking about the muffler, though...

No, not 'nearly none' - pretty much none at all. 240Z bumpers are an appearance item, and a place to hang the front plate from, nothing more.Ask kyropa what he thinks about his 280Z bumpers. While driving at a local Datsun gathering last month, he hit a deer with his 280Z. Very low speed, but hard enough that it bounced the doe back off the road. The deer then left the scene without leaving her name or insurance info. Damage to the Z? A slightly bent license plate. That's all. The big 280Z bumper took the rest of the impact. That same story on my 240Z would have been ugly.