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Arne

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Everything posted by Arne

  1. I heard from the seller that it is likely sold. Will probably be confirmed later today.
  2. Yes, but the E12-80 needs a certain amount of vacuum, which the Webers can't deliver. That's why he's looking at mechanical advance dizzies.
  3. That's what I figured too, Stephen. On an inline engine it would require a manifold with a shared plenum for all cylinders. I've never seen one like that for an L-Series engine.
  4. Yeah, I saw that on Bring A Trailer last week. Incredible story, and quite a find. The selling price is all the more amazing since the seller had no clue what he had.
  5. Stanley, I'm confused. I can't recall seeing a manifold set for triples that has a shared plenum so that it could possibly run on a single carb. The ones I've seen all have individual runners for each cylinder. On those, there's no way the center carb could feed the four outer cylinders (1 & 2, 5 & 6). Do you have something different or custom?
  6. The one that I had in my 10/70 car was like the two pictures on the right.
  7. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    To the best of my knowledge, all of the kits are made by Precision. All should be fine with that except for the door seals. They will be a bit thick and a different type than the original (which had two piece seals). To be more correct, you could use the kit but buy OE seals in addition.
  8. Hmm. I do know the owner, at least through e-mail and such. Didn't know his car was for sale. I've not yet seen it in person, but it looks quite nice here. He is a member here, but I won't name him without his permission.
  9. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Yup, that's the one. I watch most all the craigslist sites in the Pacific NW for 240Zs. I'm not going to say that it's a bad car, or fishy. It might be a typo or confusion on the part of the seller. If the title matches the number stamped on the firewall, it's probably fine. Might be a bit over-priced for disassembled car, but on the other hand it has a lot of good parts included.
  10. Arne posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I've been emailing back and forth with Mike B about the car you are looking at, Tim. Both of us are pretty certain that it is NOT a '72 as advertised, but is a '70 or really early '71. If you buy it, be certain to verify the VIN in all locations, especially the firewall. Don't trust the dash pad. Compare to the title carefully. I think it is a '70 with a later '72 dash in it. If the title matches the dash pad, but not the number stamped on the firewall, beware! As for which car to do, you'll need to make that decision your self. A 240Z is lighter, has the original visual styling, and is a more 'pure' sports car. But a 280Z is a better daily driver for most people. It's up to you.
  11. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    As we have told you several times already in this thread, you want the ZX transmission. Everything else needs to be for a Z, not a ZX. 1.) Yes, you want to use your current 280Z driveshaft. The ZX driveshaft won't work. 2.) I don't recommend it. The flex plate bolts are shorter. I'd buy a new one to replace the broken one. 3.) You'll need a ring, but I doubt that the ZX ring is the same. 4.) Any Z or ZX manual starter will work fine. From '78-83 both the auto and manual starters were the same. 5.) Use the crossmember you have on the automatic. The ZX part won't fit. 6.) The slaves should be the same, but if not get the one that's listed for your car, not the ZX. The master cylinder is probably different, again get the one for a Z. The holes in the firewall should already be there, coverd by a blanking plate. 7.) No 280Z had points, that was 240Zs. Don't worry about the ignition. 8.) You don't have to change the ratio. A five speed will work with whatever you have. Wait until you've driven it with the five speed, then decide.
  12. Those aren't Iron Crosses, they are American Racing Libres, or Libre-style by Shelby or some other vintage wheel maker.
  13. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    1974 VW Dasher (Passat, for the rest of the world). Radical departure from all that VW had done before. The Rabbit (Golf) was almost as new, but the engine carried over from the Dasher, just turned 90 degrees. Probably other similar stories during the mass move from rear drive to FWD in the late 70s and early 80s. Although many of those conversions carried the basic engine over from something else.
  14. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Yes, you can use the existing pedal box with the correct pedals. Just be certain to get pedals for as similar a year as possible to ease the swap. Like Stephen said, all you want is the transmission with its clutch fork and none of the parts farther back. You might want to get the flywheel and rear engine plate from the ZX if you can, those will work for you too. But the rest of the clutch hydraulics need to be from a Z, not a ZX.
  15. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I still suspect a ground issue. The bulb sockets on a 240Z require a good ground in the rear wiring harness. When you turn on the tail lights, the power goes into the dim filament and to the brass base of the bulb for ground. If there isn't a good ground at the black wire, the power then feeds backwards through the bright filament and back up the wiring until it finds a way out. This seems more likely to me than the possibility that the tail circuit is crossed with both brake circuits. Here's a couple of simple tests. Turn on the tail lights (which should light the brake filaments as well). Leave the ignition off. What happens when you use the turn signal (either side)? Normally, the brake lights for what ever side turn signal you activate should go out. If that doesn't happen, I don't think the wiring is cross-connected. Also. try adding a separate ground wire jumpered into one of the black wires at the tail light connection. See if that has any effect.
  16. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Sure did, Stephen. Thanks for catching my typo. I've edited the bad post, it's correct now.
  17. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Sounds like a possible bad ground at the back of the car, to me.
  18. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    R200 is stronger, but also a fair amount heavier, and not needed for the amount of power you will be putting out of a stock or even mildly modded L28. You'd also need the R200 mounting parts from a later 280Z, the ZX parts aren't the same.
  19. I don't think there's any such list, as it would be a bear to keep current as supplies change. Once you have the CD it's pretty simple. I get the number I want off the CD, and call my local dealer and ask. Simple as that. I've heard that there are dealers who don't want to mess with looking up parts for old Datsuns (mine is NOT one of them), but I can't imagine any dealer refusing to get a part if you provide the number.
  20. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I wrote this up a couple of years back. It's about early 240Zs, but the basics will be the same. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21274
  21. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Ahhh! I didn't know that! Good info!
  22. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Technically, the larger tabs are correct for a car as early as yours. But for anything short of Gold Medallion, what you have now should be close enough, IMO.
  23. Arne posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Those are the later style clips. The same as on the set I sold to Mike B, which came off of a mid-71, around 4-6/71. I recall some stamped numbers on the back of mine, too. But I can't find any close-ups.
  24. Arne posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    On the other hand, that 'overdrive' button could be wired into who knows what. Could be a handy but unobtrusive place for a foglight switch, or ????
  25. Arne posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Nice work, Dan! Another Z with it's entire roof! Carl, when Scott did mine, he talked about that. That was one of the reasons that he cut higher up and above the factory seam. He also welded in a piece of sheet metal to bridge the new seam, so that there was more there than a simple butt-weld. Here are some of the pictures he gave me that show the process.
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