Arne

Good show! Now he owes you...

I'm quite pleased with my KYBs, but I'm also one of those guys Dave mentioned who warn against KYBs with lowering springs, for two reasons. One is that KYB themselves state that GR-2 shocks and strut inserts should not be used with lowering springs. On a more personal note, I myself have done just that on a previous (non-Datsun) car, and the struts were toast after about 6 months due to either damage from bottoming (I don't think so), or being overworked and over heated as they tried to control spring rates and travel that they weren't designed for. Granted, that was many years ago, when GR-2s were fairly new on the market. And your results may vary (as Dave has found). But I think I'd go with Tokicos or Konis if I were lowering my Z. Just my thoughts...

I can't make up my mind either. White on red shows up best, but it would seem odd to me to have black interior and white stripes. Black stripes to match the interior color don't show as well on the red. Same was true for the spook - when it was black it didn't accent as well as I thought it might. That's why it's red now. And my indecision is why my car has no stripes (so far).

Same here. I had never noticed that before. Stacked vertically like the old Clifford system would make more sense for a 240Z, but not for a 280Z that has no cutout in the valance.

Series 1 car, but '72 hubcaps! Interesting!

The usual place is to center the stripe over the fender emblem holes, so that the emblem is centered in the middle stripe.

The Holley 4-bbl conversion is not even in the same league as any of the triples - Weber, Mikuni, OER, whatever. Triples are way better than a Holley.

That's one fine looking car there, Stephen. I like the clear front turn signals on the silver car. Haven't quite accepted the clear sidemarker lenses yet though... Which is a bit funny, as I've changed to clear lenses all around our BMW (except for the rear red, of course).

When it asks you to log in again, do so using the same username and password you use for the forums. You may also want to check the "Remember me" box to prevent that in the future.

The Z will do it just fine. It's Deanna and I that aren't as good at long road trips as we once were!

I'm just bummed that it is so far away...

Yeah, it can all go. All you need is the PCV (like Gary mentioned), and the big vacuum hose for the brake booster. You'll also need a vacuum hose for the advance unit on the distributor, but that should come off the front carb, not the manifold. These pictures are not a totally fair comparison, the de-smogged car was my ratty yellow car (since parted), and the smog-equipped is my much nicer red car. With smog -- Without smog. Note that this picture was with automatic transmission and so it has an additional hose at the rear that you won't need for a manual transmission.

On the rear, you'll need to remove the hub to install longer studs. Not enough room between the hub flange and the backing plate to maneuver longer studs in. As for widening the rims (if I understand what you are asking), that may not be possible at all, as many of those three piece wheels were welded in addition to being bolted. Even if they were bolted only, replacing the outer rim with a wider one will be difficult to get done, other than at a specialty rim shop that caters to racing, most likely. It will also probably cost you more than the rims did. What offset are those? They look like a positive offset (FWD) to me.

I don't think that it matters whether you're East or West. You and your glass man need to be open to other brands than Nissan or PPG. Mine is neither, but is fine. He got mine out of Spokane, but found non-shaded ones in Philly and other warehouses too.

When I had my car painted late last spring, the glass guy had no problems locating several non-shaded windshields. I'm sure that it was no more than $150, and there was no shipping cost.

Welcome! This is a good site for S30s, lots of good info here. No, this site has never really used stickies, don't know why but we don't. Searching is your best bet for that kind of stuff. Also, while this forum welcomes all Z enthusiasts, it is heavily biased towards those who stick with the original L-series motors - not a lot of engine swappers here. For that, you may want to join HybridZ as well. Lots of us are members both places.

Ooohhh! I didn't even know Brian had these available! About time someone did this! http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/ct/pd1859600/S30__FG_UNDERPAN_

First I think I'd wait until you talk with MSA, if you can. I'd hate to have something done to the new exhaust only to have to have it un-done once a replacement header arrives.This is one reason why I prefer to stick with stock manifolds for street use, as much as I love the sound of an inline six with headers.

I've been reviewing my notes on this for another person with the Euro springs, and I apparently cut 1.75 coils up front, and 2 full coils in the rear on mine. With your stock springs being a touch softer than my Euros, I'd cut 1.5-1.75 coils off the rear.

I've been to Steve and Toni's place. It doesn't look like a redneck neighborhood, but it is.

Later cars may not have had the recess on the quarter where the bumper sits. I'm not sure I see that on this panel. Compare to the attached picture of my car after paint.

I'm still not convinced that it truly is necessary for a normal street-tuned motor. Not that it would be bad, but I don't know that you'd notice much difference over what you now have. Are you suffering from symptoms of not having a enough spark now?

Use a degree wheel. You could probably make it more accurate than the factory did, if you are careful and precise.

The location and style of the timing indicator varied from year to year. I had a spare '73 L24 for a while, and it had the indicator on the left like yours with a single notch on the damper. But both my '71 L24s have/had a simple pointer on the right side with multiple timing marks on the damper. Which you use is no big deal as long as the damper and indicator match.

Not much need for an aftermarket pan back there. Remove the bumper, weld up the bumper holes and smooth it. You're done.