Arne

You need to by a clutch that matches the year of the release bearing collar that you end up using. Since the used transmission may or may not come with the collar, the simplest way to ensure that it all works is for you to use the release bearing collar from the bad transmission and then buy the clutch for the year of the car.

As pictured here. Are you certain that they removed this on your car?

MSA offers the two corner pieces, but they're not cheap. Obviously, I too prefer the Spook on the early cars.

Remove the domes and pistons from the SUs for the duration of the test.

'70 an '71 240Zs had a different boot originally. If you're interested, this thread will give you all you need to know about the early boots -- and then some.Early shift boots

14056-E3001 - Coolant hose, engine side 14054-E3001 - Coolant hose, reducer 21501-E3000 - Radiator hose, upper Haven't found the three heater hoses yet. Heater hose, inlet Heater hose, outlet Heater hose, transfer

First batch. 21503-N3000 - Lower Radiator hose 14052-E4101 - Manifold hose, front 14055-E3000 - Manifold hose, rear More to come, don't have all my notes handy.

Bear in mind that the exact same shifter issues apply with most 4 speeds as well. You'd need to find one from a '70 or '71 to go in without mods. A '72 or later 4 speed still requires the same shifter mods as a five speed.As it happens, I do have a spare known good early 4 speed here in Oregon.

Can't say from personal experience. I've never owned one.

That looks like a Magnaflow to me.

I've not seen a kit, probably because there are some variations in the later years. I bought most if not all of mine from the dealer, can pull all the part numbers out of my records if you'd like.

To be safe, yes. One speaker, not two.

And this is exactly why I buy stuff like this and wiring additions from you, rather than make them myself. Even though I thoroughly understand wiring and such, you are MUCH better at this kind of fab work than I am!

It's not hard to do. There is a small step in the upper rear mounting ear that is impossible to replicate using ABS, but it's not needed. The slight warp that the lack of the step causes tends to stiffen the mount, so that's actually good. It's probably worth confirming and re-mentioning here - the factory 240Z radios - both the '70-71 AM and the '72-73 AM/FM - were all monaural. In other words, no stereo, only one speaker output. Connecting a pair of speakers to that single output is tricky, since if the speakers are not selected VERY carefully they can seriously damage the radio.

No, early bumpers will not cover the bumper shock holes.

E3845-18000 - Clip, Tubular

Saw this on eBay tonight. Hard to find item. No connection to seller. Search for item 170297434463.

One picture shows in Safari on my Mac.

Since I've never done it myself, I can't speak from experience. But the shift mechanism is located farther forward on all of the '72 and later transmissions. So the hole needs to be enlarged at the front, by about an inch or so, I believe.Myself, I'd rather modify a later shift lever than cut my car. Check out this thread for a picture, part way down the page. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24759&page=3 Or here's a picture of a different way to do it. CM had problems with this one breaking until they gusseted the hell out of it. http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1970-datsun-240z/digging-datsun-details/ BTW, the previous post did have a good comment I missed. The later ZX turbos came with a Borg Warner T5 transmission. Installing that one is a lot different. Stick with the non-turbos for simplicity.

Here's a picture of my original antenna. The 280Z antennas were almost identical, other than the shape of the antenna tip. This one is a 240Z unit, the 280Z had a chrome cylinder instead.

Matte black on all three of my '71s also.

This has been covered so many times that its far past funny. The problem is that the search terms are so generic that it's very hard to find the info. Short version - any 5 speed from any 280Z or 280ZX will bolt up to your engine and into the car. For simplicity, you will want to use the clutch fork and the release bearing from your four speed. The driveshaft and rear mount from the four speed should be used as well. But if your car is a '70 or '71 - unless you happen to find a Type A five speed (rare, never factory installed in the USA), you will either need to enlarge the opening in the tunnel and console for the shift lever, or the shift lever from the five speed will need to be modified (cut, welded and bent). Your current four speed lever won't fit at all. If you do happen to find a Type A, you will need the driveshaft that came with it instead of your original one.

The original speaker (note - not plural) was a single 5 1/4" mounted on a gold cad-plated bracket in the left rear corner near the antenna. If your antenna has two wires that are blue/red and blue/white, it's probably original.

I wouldn't think that getting below 9 should be all that hard. After all, contemporary magazine tests showed mid to high 8s for a stock 240Z in 1970. Granted, a 240Z is lighter, but if your L26 is healthy, and you run a bit of a cam, header and good carbs on it you should easily be able to do better than a stock L24, I should think.

I feel sorry for you guys. All the Nissan parts people at my dealer know what a 240Z is, and one of them still knows many of the parts numbers in his head.