Arne

The '70-72 factory air box will perform better than Ramflo's unless you have air horns inside them. SUs need a smooth airflow for good metering performance. So if you don't have air horns in them, plan to get some or replace the original air box. If you stay with the Ramflo's, drill a hole in the rear plate of one of them and plumb the breather to that. Get rid of the mini-filter entirely. And again, make certain that the PCV valve is not clogged. If you are spewing that much out the breather you may have excessive crankcase pressure.

Needs to be plumbed into an air filter, like the factory did. Also, check to make certain your PCV valve isn't clogged.

There are several reasons you haven't gotten any help on this, Dustin. Part of it is that your posts are difficult to read, and therefore hard to get details out of. This is a technical forum, not Twitter or a txt msg. Posts with proper spelling, capitalization and punctuation are easier to read, and much easier to understand, which is important in this situation. Speaking of details, there aren't many there. You say a fuse keeps blowing, but we don't even know which one. There are at least 12-14 different fuses on a 240Z, maybe more on your 260Z. We need much more detail on the original problem and its symptoms. Lastly, electrical problems are a b*tch to diagnose by someone who can't touch and see the issue. Please don't be mad if we still can't help after you provide more detail. Do you have a service manual with a wiring diagram? Do you have any test lights, ohm meters, etc.? How much electrical experience do you have?

We should also remember that many (most?) Nissan accessories were simply US-made aftermarket parts that Nissan re-packaged. Often, the exact same part was available from other vendors without the Nissan packaging. So which is more "original"?

Shafts from '70 and '71 are shorter, as the diff was mounted farther forward. My spare '71 shaft measures about 28 1/2", maybe 28 3/4".

I figured that was what you meant, Jeffrey. But I wanted to clarify this for any people new to Zs that might read this. There are still a lot of people out there who think things like slot mags, side moldings and side stripes are "factory" since so many were dealer-installed when new. I've taken to referring to such parts as "vintage" or "period" to differentiate from true original parts.

It was not "original". No Z came with it from the factory. Often dealer installed prior to sale, but not "original".

Note that the JDM light harnesses will not plug into a US wiring harness. US harness has four (4) terminals, but a JDM needs (and has) five (5). Some mildly creative wiring is needed to use the JDM lights with JDM harnesses on a US car. Basically you need to run a separate brake light wire from the brake switch to the rear, and bypass where the brake circuit goes through the turn signal and hazard switches. Not too hard to do, I can provide details to those who want it. I've done it on my car (with some slight differences).

We should see if we can get Gary (beandip) to chime in. He has an L28 with P79 head and a mild cam and header, found the SMs were too rich for his setup. Can't remember what he ended up running, I think it was the needles for a '70, which were the richest of the stock 240Z needles.

Definitely the driveshaft, then. There must be something wrong with the splines part way in. Look carefully in there for damage, FO, etc.

Nice looking car, honestly described. Interesting that the pricing seems right in the ball park I figure I'd want for my 67,000 mile car. As always, mine appears to be nicer in some ways, and not as nice in others – about a wash. I'll be watching that auction with some curiosity...

Typically, that is a binding or damaged speedo cable, if I understand your problem description correctly.

SM needles may be too rich, depending on the rest of the engine mods and your altitude. Of course, if you were running triples, the engine may be able to use the richer mixture of the SM needles. I know several people with SUs on L28s, beandip is one. Seem to work great.

Something wrong with the splines - either in the driveshaft or on the output shaft of the transmission. A couple of comments - the nose of the driveshaft should not be painted. That is the surface the seal seats on. Strip the paint totally clean there without roughing up the surface. It needs to be clean and smooth. Also, the output splines on the transmission look rusty as well. The driveshaft needs to be able to slide smoothly back and forth on those splines. It would be best to clean the rust from there, if it can be done without disassembling the transmission or getting rust inside the gearbox. You might try removing the seal and trying to brush the splined end with phosphoric acid carefully. Don't let the acid get inside.

Try these as well as CRC2: http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Please, Julio, can't you find places to park that won't require those things? I'm SOOO glad my car came without, even with the 30 years of door dings it collected. Still no moldings after paint, and no door dings either...

Ugh! As always, should you or any of your team be caught or injured, the Secretary will disavow all knowledge. Good luck!

I agree. I had a bad one in my yellow 240Z - it was fine when the temp was moderate, but would do many funky things when it got warm outside (85°F and up). Replacing the tach with a different one fixed it.

Some of us have to work...

Done.

Not sure that Paltech is the problem, as my original, non-rebuilt carbs have the "foot-tap-to-get-normal-idle" issue also. Typically sits about 200 RPM fast until I tap the throttle, that drops it to the normal 6-700 RPM. Haven't found a fix yet.

Now at 111 pins. Anyone else up to adding a pin? (Or to having one added for you?)

Just over a week to go, is your car ready yet?

The 301 has horizontal tips, will not fit up into the valance cut out on a 240Z. You will either have to enlarge the opening, or have the exhaust hang much lower - below the valance.

Probably the valving. But hard to say for certain at this point. Neither. The inserts were for replacement only, not used in original production. The original struts were assembled inside the tube, not self-contained inserts.