VaGuS510

The fuel was boiling out thru the hose that i was using to adjust my float level. The problem is not that the i am running too rich. This is just the only solution i have found to the backfiring. At idle i can get the mixture to where it should be but it isn't drivable because it backfires with even the smalllest load. Even under very slow acceleration it will backfire. I only get around 10 mpg when the carbs are adjusted so that it will run. Thats the biggest problem. Thanks for replying.

I have looked around quite a bit to try and find my problem. I still can't figure out what is wrong. I have an L28 with a header, N42 head and belltop SU carbs. I was told there is a cam in the engine(but you know how that goes ). I believe I am currently running N55 needles. Which is probably part of my troubles. I am thinking of going with SM's. I set up a dual air fuel ratio gauge (each reads from a carb with my dual collector header). The only way to prevent backfire when the engine is under load is to richen the mixture up quite a bit. Another trouble is that I can't get the rear carburetor to lean out at idle. The choke isn't stuck. The only problem i can find is the gas getting too hot and boiling. This is definatly something i will fix very soon. But could this cause the "always rich" condition. I have tried to adjust the float many times. I recently got some clear tubing and adjusted the level 27mm below the gasket surface. I can't figure much out. I am hoping to get a Z-therapy rebuild kit as soon as i have the cash. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Let me know if you have any ideas.

If you like the classic Z looks but like the purr of an american V8 then i believe this one takes the bait. It is beautiful from bottom to the top and while it is beating a Yamaha R1. I think this is the best compromise between performance and beauty. I believe he recently put a wide body kit on it. Plus it is black which means the body work has to be at least twice as good. http://www.darius240z.com/gallery.php

The junior GT and GTVs are beautiful cars i wish i had one of them myself.

You could try to use a .99 nozzle. If you think you are running rich everywhere then this should lean you out everywhere. I just installed some O2 sensors on my car and i got a nifty gauge that reads both o2 sensors at the same time. I also am going to need a richer needle. I am currently rich at idle and cruise but it leans out big time when i get on it. The only way to keep it from backfiring is to make it run really rich at idle and cruise. Therefor i get bad gas milage, about 10 mpg. I am currently running N54s on my L28. I am also leaning towards trying an SM needle as a baseline. Also there are literally hundreds of su needles out there. The answer isn't always SM, N54, or N27. Check out this website for some more options. http://www.teglerizer.com/cgi-bin/needle100db.cgi?Needlecode= This is also a good website on how to tune su carbs. http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/su_carbs.html

I am adjusting the mixture on the correct carburetor(the one i am not lifting the piston on).

I am trying to sync and adjust mixture on a 240z with round top SU carbs on an l28. The problem is this. I am doing the piston lift technique to getting the mixture right and the engine drops in RPM when i lift the rear carb. Just like it should. But when i lift the front carburetor the engine dies. It doesn't seem to matter how rich i adjust it the engine just dies. Another intresting symptom is when i put the unisyn on the front carb the engine drops in RPM significantly. When i put it on the rear nothing simular happens. The airflow going in each is the same. I am thinking that the rear carb is messed up. I think the previous owner of the carbs took it apart because it looks much cleaner. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

I recently purchased a 240z that was sitting in a guys yard for 12 years. It is in pretty good shape but nothing was done to "store" it. I just got it off the trailer today and it was a pain to push. I jacked it up and found the brakes are all dragging. The back worst then the front but they are all dragging bad. Before this I realized the brake fluid was not fluid more like grease. It was sitting with the e-brake on so it could be siezed. but i think most of my problem is the brake fluid. Any ideas on how to get rid of it. Thanks for the help.

might be easier and just as economical to find an L20A, the 2 liter 6 cylinder that came in japanese z-cars. This way it is a much easier swap and I am sure would make a great reliable daily driver.

My brother had a problem that was simular in his 95 5.0 mustang. It would rev to 3k and jump to 5k-6k and make no power. It was discovered that a valve spring was broken and a few others were loose or something like that. Check all the valve tran and see if everything looks good.