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Posts posted by dat240z71

  1. After fixing the retainer, I did a compression test the result was 

    1. 150

    2. 150

    3. 165

    4 165

    5 145

    6. 145

    Installed the plugs started the car and ran worse. Missing and popping out the intake.  Check the carburetors with the "snail "1-5 pulling the same amount of air, #6 was a little off at 4 . I thought the poor   was due to the fact the valves were now set correctly and the compression has risen, I should retuned the carburetors . Now the backfireing louder, at times flames would pop out the front two crabs and backfires out the exhaust, a few times it sounds like gun shot.  After all I still have the original problem #6 plug is still wet.

  2. Well Im afraid things have gotten worse.  Took the car out to get the engine up the temp to perform the compression test,  after a couple of miles started to hear a rattling sound from the engine.  Got home pulled the valves cover and found one on the lash pad felling out of thr retainer.  Tried to put the lash pad back but the opening in the retainer is damaged cant get the lash pad bach in. Is it possible to replace the retainer with the head on and the camshaft still in place, or do i have to pull the head yet Again 



  3. Hey guys what's the correct procedure to perform a compression test. I may have doing this wrong. The way I been doing test is removing one plug at a time and depressing the acellarator peddle then crank the engine, but this was on a cold engine.  I read the engine has to been up to operation temp and all plus out.   Is that the correct procedure?

  4. Just got done adjusting the valves,  all the clearance were too tight, couldn't get the .007 gauge bottom of the lobes and the rockers. Set both intake and exhaust valves at .007 now the compression has gone up to 150 psl on all cylinders. Tomorrow I will go for a test drive 

    • Like 3

  5. .007 is the adjustment for the lash both intake and exhaust is what Rebello told me.  He also said to  adjust at the lash not the traditional way at the bottom of the lobe and the rocker are surface.  What I ment Robello wouldn't tell me anything about the Duration/Lift. Just that this is one of the cams he use in some of his 3.0 engines. 

  6. I'm an issues with the # six cylinder. My carbs were work good before I pulled them of to replace a bad head gasket. After installing the crabs. I notice the car was missing on the #6 cylinder. Pulled the plugs and 1-5 was nice and " brown" but plug on # 6 was wet and fouled. I bought a new plug and replaced it car idle and ran great until # 6 plug fouled and gain in a few miles. I puled the plug out of #6 and grounded it on the shock tower bolts and confirmed that there was spark at the plug. I replaced the wire on #6 just in case. The plug still fouled out. I then lean out the carb on # 6 still the plug still fouled out. I stitched out the plug from #3 and #6. . Drove the car  same result run good until the plug in #6 foul out. I turned the mixture screw all the way in and the plug ids still fouling out. Any ideas what I can check next. No issues befor the headgasket blew. I have had the car three years, this is my second driving season with the new engine

    N42 block with flat top pistons. .020 over

    Port and polish N42 head

    Webber 45's " Carbs were new at the time of the build Two years ago

    Robello 3'0 tight lash  street cam. I don't have any spec. on the cam. Robello won't  tell me

    MSA six into two header.2.5" exhaust.

    3k miles on rebuild.

    Just did a compression test. 120 PSI on 1-4 and 100 psi on #5 &6


  7. I'm the one that the one that spoke with 2furtyzee. He asked me what condition Z" Im looking and what was my budget. I told him I prefer a "rust free" 240z or mostly rust free . Who's not . Well he proceeded to tell me how the price had gone up on 240zs and for $3000 I would be have to consider a shell or something with rust needing a lot of work. He also told me that he's been buying and selling Z's for 5 years and has a good understanding. of the market. I than told I maybe will to up my budget some for the right. I told the ideal car would be something complete that have been sitting a while, that I can get back on the roads  after of course , going thought the car to make it road worthy and car driver for a few years before doing any restoration. He told me he car that may work and wanted to know what I would pay for the car. Asked him to tell me more about the car. He went on to say the was a series 1 240z, blue on blue. (I have been looking for this combo for a while) rust free that has been off the roads for 15 years but was complete enough to get running in a matter of a couple of weeks worth of work. He did say the car was missing a few non critical parts ash tray, heater control panel and such. Than he told the car had a dent on the passenger side. and he wanted $5500 for the car. My interest was peeked. He told me  that he was considering placing the car on Bring a trailer. I asked for pictures. He sent me a few pictures , but did not include a picture of the " Dent". After viewing the first set of pictures. I was interested and asked for pictures of the interior and the dent in the rear quarter panel. He sent me the rest of the pictures as you can cleary that the damage was more than a dent. 

    I told him thanks and I would keep looking. I would have bought the car if it wasn't in a wreak.  I know the price have gone up on the 240z, but I'm sure  I can find a better car for $5500.  I'm  not despret for a 240z, I have three very nice " RUST FREE"  240Z'S all California car.











  8. I got the timing set today at 33% runs best at this setting  38 seam to high. Anyway  I swapped out the 135 main jets with the 145 the car runs a lot better and pulls all the way to 5500 RPMS  now before running out of fuel aith the 135 main jets and the timing  not sst correctly the would run out at 4k RPMs . I have a set of 150 main jets I'm thinking of trying tomorrow to see if  that would  be enough to pull 'll the way to 6500 RPMS .  Still have a slight hassation from about 2500-3200 RPMS.  But pulls like hell from 3500-5500 RPMS.  The Throttle plate is just at the edge of the progression holes,  the car idles at 1500 at this setting. When the plate is in the center of the progression holes or fully covering the holes other idle jump to 2000 RPMS. I'm thinking of trying 65f9 idle jets next.   Also have the occasional  spitting out of one of the carberator  and popping out the exhaust  .  My thinking is this is a street car and most of my driving is under 3000 RPMS.  So get the transition speeds figure out first then wide open throttle  5500 and above. At 3000 RPMS I cursing 70 MPH . Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. . 

     I attached a picture of the spark plugs please help me read them 





  9. I'm in need of someone that knows how to tune webers.I have a L28.20 over Ported and polished N42 head,Robello street cam.flat top piston 280zx distributor that I can't seam to get running correctly.  The car has a slight bog at 2800 RPM. Bseam to hit a wall at 4k RPMS. My trimming is set to 20 degrees at idle vacuum advance disconnected.  Distributor have not been re curved.  Driving at highway speeds the car seams to bog when press down on the accelerator. The transition isn't smooth from idle circuit to main. If there anyone or a shop in N.E Indiana or the surrounding area that can help I will greatly appreciate it. I'm also willing to Compensate you.


    Idle jet 60 F9

    Main jet 135

    Air corrector 180

    Emulsion tube F2

    Pump jet 45

    34mm Choke 

  10. I am looking to get Rota Rb 15 x 7 FOR my 68-2000, can someone tell me the measurement of the center cap. Height and how big the opening is in the wheel where the cap seat into. I know the cap will not fit on the front hub as the hub is longer than the cap, I want to find and placement cap.