sideshowbob

This killed my motor (and I have EFI), Check your compression dry and wet quick.

Thanks JimmyZ and Moonpup

I think the paint fumes from all those dozens of cars have gotten to your head. Here's a cookie.

That Omni paint certainly sounds reasonable, but that's a 2K urethane with the large amounts of iso-cyanates, requiring a fresh air respirator in addition to evrything else, yes? (with others, the disposable mask will usually do) Is the epoxy really neccesary? I'm looking at spraying a simple high build primer and laying on the enamel, then some clear a few months later. ~120$ for the whole thing, giving me money left for the equiptment I need to actually shoot it. Maybe I'll change my mind later, it's not moving till the end of the month anyway.

I assumed that the roller and brush thread you mentioned was the infamous 'rustoleum' thread, if not nevermind. The only real problem you have is recognizing and accepting that the "if" will be a "when". No, no problem with that. It's always 'when'. The 'when' I'm talking about is having to redo it right away. I'm not spending anything approaching 700$ in materials for a first paint job, might as well have someone else do it and where's the fun in that?

77 280, what else? Don't all years have this plastic junction block in them?

How do I remove the connectors from the plastic junction box under the passenger side dash without damaging it? It seems as if it would be self explanatory, but I'm having some difficulty. Leaving it connected would require me to remove the under dash harness and engine compartment harness as a unit, which I'd rather not do.

Don't get me started on the rustoleum job, I'd rather use lacquer. Hell, I even painted a scrap fender with it just for sh*ts and giggles. This stuff doesn't last in the elements like a decent, hardened acrylic enamel. A great reason to use inexpensive materials is that this'll be my first whole car paintjob and if I need to redo it, it won't cost me an arm and a leg.

No, I heard a few negative reviews on some boards and in their ebay account about it and decided to go with smartshoppers when the car is stripped. http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/modified-acrylic/custom-finishes.html

I'm a bit leery of doing this myself, but how do you guys store the windshield once it's off? I'm assuming that laying it down flat is a bad idea, considering it's curvature. WIll I need to build a stand of some sort? Is padding neccessary?

Excuse the poor pics, there isn't much light out right now and I maxed out the fill light in picasa just to make it visible. The first one is the patched dogleg and looks acceptable for now, the second is an unfinished battery tray that's goung to come back out so I can replace the firewall behind it with a flat sheet (can't make the beads ) and the third is the fender I have sitting inside. The fender is now mostly straight from the long dent, but the area right next to the flange is giving me a headache just thinking about it (the black here was the guide coat). The other fender is fine and covered in primer on the top and bed liner on the inside. Other than that, I'm still agonozing over the neccessity of emptying the gas tank after having done it to the Olds earlier this year. That sh*t is not fun. All this and I haven't even located a new block yet. End of the month, I'm having it towed to a garage so I can indiscriminately tear the whole thing down to it's rusted shell. I'm also awaiting delivery of some rust bullet to see just how well this stuff works. There's more, but I'm really tired right now. What I wouldn't give for a real MIG. ETC: Sometime in 2010

Well there was this terrible moment: http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4826 But that's all better now. I'll get a pic at 10pm or so. Though the seam just in front of that panel has dissapeared

"Hello sideshowbob it appears that you have not posted on our forums in several weeks, why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums?" I'm far too busy scraping rust, removing wiring, agonizing over new part prices, screwing up body work and looking for new and innovative ways to pay for my bad habit, but thanks for noticing.

Where do I find this alissa280z person? Edit: Nevermind, thanks

Could have just been an engine swap from na to turbo. Gauges added after the fact.

Has anyone ever ordered from this place: http://www.paintforcars.com/ ? I need some cheap paint and this looks like the way to go, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had experience with the place/paint.

Also check the lines, I had one rust through underneath one of the clamps that holds it to the frame. Doesn't sound as if this is your problem, but it's worth a check. I also had the fluid leaking into the firewall (and into the engine through the vacuum line) from a bad MC.

I was under the impression that only coolant holes had been added, you may want to check your oil pressure for a too high/low reading.

it's a mitsi

The wire splices in the harness from the fusible link box to the starter. They corrode to dust and each is split off to a different system. Save some time and headache by checking this first, since there's not even power to the fuse box.

Because the URL is actually : http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/5519/1857/1024/rear%20axle%20shaft-6.jpg You seem to be behind some sort of proxy/filter that is restricted from that domain.

Are you at work?

The C-Clips are around the small edge of the cups you see in this picture. In the upper left, on the remaining cups you might be able to make out the c-clip still holding it in. I prefer to knock on it with a punch/screwdriver and hammer untill there is a nice gap between the clip and the cup, then finish with a pair of pliers. This prevents the clip from becoming a projectile.

10mm I think

THey're a rare commodity here, for some reason (at least in good shape) and I'm not willing to have it shipped.