2ManyZs

Guess we could call them non-North American Market lights and bumpers.....

AH HAH! I knew there was going to be something you would find wrong with the car for that money...:devious: Auto? At least it isn't yur favorite color.... :cross-eye

Guess we now know where GM got the front end for the C-4 and C-5 Corvettes don't we? :cross-eye :disappoin

Sorry Victor, but if the urethane was prepped right, it shouldn't be flaking off paint like that... I'll stick with urethane airdams.... think of it this way, if you crack the paint on the fiberglass one on something, you probably just cracked the airdam too... I've got a urethane airdam that was on the ITS car when it went into an embankment front end first... some of the paint did chip off, but it's useable as it is not hurt at all...I've never seen a urethane deform at race speeds enough to be noticeable from the pit lane... If you go with urethane, be sure whoever paints it, sands it, primes it, and most importantly puts the right amount of flex additive in the paint.

440 would end up putting more HP to the ground than a Hemi if the amount of money spent is equal.. Hemi's and parts are just too darn expensive...Only thing wrong would be the money you'd have to spend on as many aluminum parts as possible to keep the weight of any of the big blocks down.... My money would be on the the new stroked 360 crate engine with 400+HP for under 5K...:devious: By the way, I found the pic of the 354(?) Hemi in the yellow Z over on hybridz... guess the pic has made its rounds of nearly all the Z sites...

Saw one on a site in the last week or so, a yellow Z with a Hemi in it.... now if I could just remember where the heck I saw it... Being a Mopar man since way before my first Z, I kinda liked that one....:devious:

Kinda makes you wonder who or what they are copying now doesn't it?:cross-eye :tapemouth I guess the AMC Pacer might have been a little ahead of its time after all, nearly everything now is rounded and without character....:stupid:

The early cars here in the US came from the factory with metal badges... however, if they were replaced, the only ones available were plastic ones from Nissan. Don't know if this was the case everywhere else in the world.... I think they may have changed over to all plastic badges in the later 70's though...

Unfortunately, I haven't seen the camber plates that bolt up to the stock mounting holes in years... I know someone who has a set on his ITS car, but right now I can't remeber who even made them back then... The closest you can come to them would be the camber adjustment kit from MSA, which is nothing more than a block of urethane that take the place of the "top hat" on the strut...They don't give you much adjustment unless you use them in conjunction with the adjustable camber bushings... One place you could try would be this one, as I'm not sure what kind of camber plates they offer http://www.zcarperformance.com/ Hmm, seems I spoke too soon. MSA has the camber plates you are looking for, but they are only available in conjunction with the coil-over kit they sell(900 bucks).... but then, someone has to be supplying them with the parts for the coil-over kit...:devious:

Mine has been classiczcars.com for a while now, before that it was 240z.org...... hmm... I think there's a pattern there somewhere...:cross-eye

Actually George, a Pitman arm puller should make it easier than the pickle fork... Just spray it with some penetrating fluid, put the puller on it and put as much pressure as you can without it slipping off, if it doens't separate, take a hammer and hit the end of the steering arm a couple times and it should just pop right out.... As far as which way the threads are... well, I'd have to go look myself. There's a joint in the steering rack, so turning it won't hurt... and the strut hanging like that shouldn't hurt...

Why Rednecks Make the Best Marines Dear Ma &Pa, Am well. Hope you are. Tell brother Walt & Brother Elmer the Marine Corps beats working for old man Minch by a mile. Tell them to join up quick before may be all of the places are filled. I was restless at first because you got to stay in bed till nearly 6 a.m., but am getting so I like to sleep late. Tell Walt & Elmer all you do before breakfast is smooth your cot and shine some things. No hogs to slop, feed to pitch, mash to mix, wood to split, fire to lay. Practically nothing. Men got to shave but it is not so bad, they git warm water. Breakfast is strong on trimmings, like fruit juice, cereal, eggs, bacon, etc..., but kind of weak on chops, potatoes, ham, steak, fried eggplant, pie, and other regular food. But tell Walt & Elmer you can always sit between two city boys that live on coffee. Their food plus yours holds you till noon, when you get fed again. It's no wonder these city boys can't walk much. We go on "route" marches, which the Platoon Sergeant says are long walks to harden us. If he thinks so, it is not my place to tell him different. A "route march" is about as far as to our mailbox at home. Then the city guys gets sore feet and we all ride back in trucks. The country is nice, but awful flat. The Sergeant is like a schoolteacher. He nags some. The Capt. is like the school board. Majors & Colonels ride around & frown. They don't bother you none. This next will kill Walt & Elmer with laughing. I keep getting medals for shooting. I don't know why. The bulls-eye is near as big as a chipmunk and don't move. And it ain't shooting back at you, like the Higgett boys at home. All you got to do is to lay there all comfortable and hit it. You don't even load your own cartridges. They come in boxes. Be sure to tell Walt & Elmer to hurry & join before other fellers get into this setup &come stampeding in. Your loving daughter, Annabelle

Wonder if it's the same schmuck that paid 146 for the wiper blades....:stupid: FWIW, the hatch emblems unfortunately are getting a little more scarce, or at least there seems to be supply problems...:disappoin But not 150+ dollars scarce....:cross-eye

If you found a roll pin loose in the distributor, it had to come from something fairly important....wonder if it's could be off the star wheel(reluctor)on the shaft itself? If you look down on the top of the reluctor there should be one roll pin in it to hold it on the distributor shaft, it's the only roll pin I can think of in the 280 distributor.....

Figures..... Well, you could try Too Intense Restorations, Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com and if all else fails I'd try Zedd Findings as Charlie can get a few things from Nissan Canada that aren't available over here anymore... Other than that, I guess a used one is all your gonna find...:disappoin

I was expecting a whole lot worse..... That is minor damage when you consider what could have happened...

Looks like what Alan said, someone with little or no experience with a mig welder was trying to weld up a hole and only succeeded in sticking the wire....:stupid: Better safe than sorry, you really need to find what else might be hidin gunder the undercoating... Only then will you know for sure how much you are going to have to repair/replace...:disappoin

After seeing the price of a new pair is now up to $869.95:cross-eye , I'm wishing I had bought a few sets when they were "only" 500 or so a pair.... BTW, a 3.70 R-200 could be found in a junkyard out of a 280ZX, but you'd have to supply the LSD as they weren't available in the US with LSD's until 87... If you can find a cheap one in a scrap yard, you might save a little money...

If the timing is changing, it's got to be in the timing chain or in the distributor or distributor drive. First thing I would do is pull the valve cover and check to see if the timing chain is loose, if it is, you'll need to pull the front cover and replace the chain and tensioner. If that is OK, pull the distributor cap and check to see if the shaft of the distributor is OK, also look for any loose pieces of plastic or ball bearings from the advance plate.... Those are only a couple things that could be causing the timing problem, if that is really what is wrong in the first place...

All I can say is OUCH!!!:cross-eye It looks bad, but it looks repairable.. If you notice the reinforcement panel just above the T?C rod mount in the inner fender itself, it is a common rust area. I've seen many cars with this panel rusted completely through to the engine compartment so that is not a real issue. It does look like the car at one time or anohter might have had some damage, either by a garage lift, running up on a curb.. hard to tell what may have caused the cave-in of the frame rail. Looks like at the very least you'll need to replace the under floor frame rail and then have someone cut you a panel to replace the reinforcement panel in the inner fender. With that in place they could then re-weld the seam to mount the T/C pocket. Most of what I see can be repaired fairly easily with some patch panels and welding. However before you do anything, you'll need to remove the undercoating and search for any more rust. You might end up finding some in the floor pans themselves as the rust may have gone from the frame rail into the floor pan. Once you have the undercoating removed, you'll be able to get a better asessment of the rust damage as a whole. It isn't going to be cheap, but at least it's in an area that is fairly easy to fix and replacement parts are available... however, where you are, I don't know what the prices or availability of those replacement panels will be. Here in the US, MSA has most everything you'd need.... Also, if you are doing this side, you might better do the other side at the same time and see what might be hidden under the coating on that side as well. If you have seams that are compromised on one side like this one at the frame, inner fneder, T/C mount they could possibly in the same shape on the other side..... :disappoin

It could still rust, especially if there has been moisture trapped inside the frame rails etc... by the undercoating. FWIW, Eastwoods has a fairly good undercoating remover, if you are trying to save the paint underneath, I'd give that a try. It's a two part system, you use one aerosol to remover the heavy stuff, and then another to remove the tar remnants that will end up just smearing around... It's supposed to be safe to use on paints, and I used some on mine with the factory undercoating and it left the paint in good shape. It's a bit expensive, but better than scraping if you are trying to save the paint... www.eastwoodcompany.com

It's not that funny.... The less I drank and the more my ex-fiancee drank, she went from the good to the bad, and then the ugly....:tapemouth :stupid: :sick:

I haven't used Amsoil, but have used the RedLine synthetics... I'd go for it, if for nothing else, piece of mind... But, you should replace the seals and gaskets before you change... If you seals and gaskets are worn, the lighter weight synthetics will more than likely cause you to have a leak where you didn't have one before.

Is this what he's on?

US only got taillights with red turn and brake light lenses. The "euro" style has amber turn signals....and red brake light lenses.....