2ManyZs

I know I haven't tried it before.....:stupid: They look similar but that doesn't answer the question does it? BTW, did the wiring diagram help?

Check it out if you are looking for a stock radio. Bidding is kinda low on this one... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400136228&category=6774

A young blonde fellow wanted to go ice fishing for the first time. So, after spending a few hundred on ice fishing gear, he heads out to the nearest frozen lake to try his luck. After getting comfy on his new stool, he starts to cut a hole in the ice. Then from the heavens a voice booms... THERE ARE NO FISH UNDER THE ICE! Startled, he picks up his stool and moves further down the lake. He take out his thermos and pours himself a cup of hot chocolate and begins to cut another hole in the ice. The voice booms again.... THERE ARE NO FISH UNDER THE ICE! This time he's getting a little unnerved, so he moves as far down the lake as he can. He sets up and begins to cut a hole in the ice. The voice booms again... THERE ARE NO FISH UNDER THE ICE! The guy is really shaking now, and raise his head and says, "Is that you Lord?" The voice answers... "NO, I AM THE MANAGER OF THE ICE RINK!"

I doubt it would hold up to that much....:cross-eye An R-180 might not either.... But, if you say there are a lof of 4WD Subie's, have you checked to see if there are any R-200's from the Subie's? I think there were a couple models that had the R-200, as I was told the Torson in my R-200 I have came from a Subie.... I don't know much about Subaru's so I can't tell you if they did or didn't have an R-200 in any of them......But it might be worth a look...

They aren't quite as strong as the 180, but if it is for just a street only car it should work OK. A lot of 510 racers update to the 180 for a little extra strength in the ring and pinion and bearing size. It would be OK if you don't plan on too many 5K launches or too many autox's.... Be nice if that was a Torson as some of the Subie's came from the factory with them...even if it's a clutch-type it's better than not having an LSD:cross-eye

Dan, you need to read his description more carefully... The Buy It Now price of 169 is for a complete set of three carbs... In which case that is a hell of a deal anyway you look at it...:classic: Guess we will have to watch his auctions a little more carefully huh? I agree, they are only good if you have done mods to the engine, but at that price, you will save enough for a new cam etc.....:devious:

Well, since you took the time to post the pics, I went out in the garage and looked under the old race car. Guess what, it looks the same. :stupid: Now the only thing that comes to mind is something might be moving. Have you thoroughly checked the front diff mount? Have you checked the mounting bolts on the uprights? I'm thinking front diff mount for one reason, the mustache bar is somewhat "springy" and if the front mount is loose or broken, the diff could be moving enough to deflect the mustache bar and cause the contact. The uprights are also somewhat springy as you may have noticed... One thing you might try is this, if you can get a long enough extension on a ratchet to get to the mounting bolts on the uprights, try loosening them a bit, and see if the uprights will move back any. If I remember right, there is a wee bit of play in those holes in the uprights, perhaps that will give it just enough room to keep them from touching. It looks as if you or someone may have replaced the mustache bar bushings, so that might be one thing to ignore, but check to see if the mounting nuts are tight.

Darn Gary, I'm getting good at guessing.... One of these days I'm going to get a chart on the bolt sizes for metric.....wouldn't have to walk out to the garage in the snow and then still have to guess..:stupid:

try www.nadaguides.com They even give the original prices of the vehicle. This should take you right to the Datsun/Nissan page. http://www.nadaguides.com/Values/ValueCategoryYear.asp?UserID=064CA3CE5F4&DID=37635&wSec=2&wPg=1204&CategoryId=13&MakeId=1254&ColorId=

I think the originals were a vinyl with a cloth type backing.... I haven't used one of Too Intense's boots, but have used a new one from MSA, looked great. FWIW George, if you are going to replace the outer, you may want to go ahead and replace the rubber inner boot at the same time. They get cracks and rips in them and as much fun as it is to take out the console to get the one boot installed, you may as well do both...:cross-eye

Too Intense also has the webbing kits. It might save you a wee bit of money if you supplied the webbing to an uphostery shop. Save's them making a profit on the parts, just have to pay them for the labor this way.... Sorry guys, but VB doesn't help support the our site, so they would be my last choice....:devious:

If you can see the battery form inside the wheel well, be sure to check it out VERY carefully. This is one of the hardest places to patch, as there are no patch panels made for this area. You will have to patch it up with hand made patch panels.. This is not an easy fix if you have no experience with a welder or making panels.....

When in doubt, rip it out. The coating is porous and will retain water, so if there were ever a leak in the hatch or floors, you can be sure there will be at the very least, some surface rust under it. Surface rust will easily become more serious if not attended too. At the very least, I suggest taking it out in the floor pans as this is usually the first place to rust. You have all those rubber plugs in the floor and as you can see by Michael pics, the surface rust usually spreads outwards from them.

I was wondering the same thing until I started looking a little closer at all the neat fiberglass panels on the car, have to bet the hatch is fiberglass too. Doesn't explain the "foam", unless it's just being used as a shim for final fitting or are you molding the hatch in too? I noticed the rain gutter is gone Nick, how hard was that to re-weld? I like the flares, shame we can't get decent flares(full quarters) here in the US anymore. I also like the rear panel, is that all fiberglass?

R-200 is the only one we know of.... unless you want to convert to a straight axle. Check out www.hybridz.org you'll get more informed answers over there on V-8 swaps.

Before you make a deal, search the forums here for where to look for rust. That is the biggest enemy for the Z car. You will find many threads and posts about where to look, and how easy it might be to fix. As far as the pinging goes, it could just need a good tune-up, or the carbs could be out of adjustment.... They are a great car if you find one that isn't hiding rust in a bad or impossible place to fix.... The mechanicals are the easy fix as many aftermarket and OE parts are still available, it's the body parts that are getting harder to find....

Two of the best places for patch panels are in our web-links section. They are Zedd Findings and Motorsport Auto. As far as the filler question, I believe it is spot welded from the inside...You might try one of the parts outlets like Zcarsofarizona or zspecialties as they might have some parts cars that could "donate" the section around the filler.

FWIW Nate, a Z goes pretty well in snow.... When I had my first Z it was the only vehicle I could afford at the time and we had a 28 inch snow storm here in VA. I was one of the only cars out on the road the day after the storm and only got it stuck once, got it body hung on a pile of snow..:stupid: Here in VA they use a lot of cinders and gravel chips instead of salt, so instead of rust you get a sandblasting for free... I agree, winter is a good time to put it in the garage and do some of the work you didn't want to take the time to do while you were having fun driving it in the summer.....

Me thinks that politician in the picture could use a rope or a proctologist......

Victor, are you wondering why you didn't do this sooner???:cross-eye

Any way you can post a pic? I'm wondering about one thing, does your car have the original R-180 or has it been converted to an R-200?

That price is sad in that the person that bid on it doesn't know where to get one! Caveat emptor! You can tell the person bidding is not a member here or they wouldn't be spending more than they need to......The only thing this auction has going for it is the new or nearly new guards which are hard to find.... Andy Russell has new front bumpers for the 70-72(OE) for 295 or the "euro" front bumpers with no holes for the rubber rub strip for 279. The only problem is the rear bumper center piece for the "euro" bumper is NLA, and I'm not sure if the OE center piece is still available...... Give him a call or e-mail him if you want to go with the original style bumper at z@datsundude.com or (480) 343-2962 FWIW, I like the looks of the fiberglass bumper covers that MSA sells, but the price isn't much different than buying a new front bumper if you know where to look.:stupid:

I thought about that too John, hopefully he knows what he's talking about and they are 180's... With all the parts he has for sale, it sounds like he knows a little bit about his cars...

Saw this on another site, thought someone might be interested in the R-180 LSD's he has for sale... http://www.coloradoscca.org/prodcar/viewtopic.php?t=758

Hey guys, how about posting the links to the sites where we could possibly purchase these videos? Those of us who would be interested in them, could then purchase them and watch them over and over.:classic: I for one would rather buy the video as downloading good videos is just too time consuming, and a good video always looks better on a 27+ inch TV screen than a small computer screen...... If possible, give us some places to look for ones with English language(if possible) since the majority of our members do speak English....