nwcubsman

Hey Jimbo, I can email you a copy of the parts breakdown page for the manifold if you can't read these attachments. Check your Nissan dealer to see if you can get the replacement part. Then you can measure the thread and get the tap drill size. Often a left hand twist drill back out the remainder of the broken part. I agree with MLC that a good penetrating oil will help break it loose. If not an "easy out" will do the same. It is basically a multi tooth LH drill except tapered. You should be able to get it at a local industrial supply house like Fastenal or ? manifold.bmp manifold list.bmp

Bruce, I may be wrong, because I have not used that specific plug, but I have always heard the gap should be between .8 & .9mm. The FSM confirms that. Unless you have an improved ignition and coil, then it can be widened.

cremmenga, 300ZX TTs are still going down in value. Great car but if you wait, it may just get more affordable. Your Firebird on the other hand will not go down in value as long as the condition doesn't deteriorate. Besides, the sentimental value is much, much greater. My .02, Bryan

Bruce, please send me a PM before you go very far. I'd really like to talk to you and pass along a personal experience. If you'd prefer to talk on the phone, we can figure that out. Bryan

Tim, I am a little behind the curve, but wanted to thank you for being an American Hero, keeping old farts and their families like me safe. I look forward to the day when we can take a Z to a stretch of river (next to a road) and wet a line. Sounds like a good time. Congratulations on the new car and making it home. Warmest wishes, Bryan

Explain to me why you'd take a car with 15k miles and change the ignition and radiator so it wasn't stock. Are you planning to go add 30k miles? Why the need for a replacement distributor? When I saw this auction yesterday, something smelled fishy. I think I'll run the price up. :stupid: Of course, I have been known to be cynical and sarcastic.

I think the Rover aluminum V8 or the Lexus SC400 V8 might be a nice way to go. Both have been done. I'm not really into V8's and have never had personal experience, but I have heard that aluminum heads and intake manifold on a SB Chevy is considerably lighter than the L28 engine.

Think I may have a line on what I need. Thanks fir all the suggestions. You're all the best.

Gary, Are you trying to talk everyone out of a hot rod?

Any ideas on how to weigh a complete engine? I have one on a stand if you have an method to weigh.

Thanks Gary and Stephan for your responses. I think the FSM would be helpful, and I may bid, but I'd really like to find an exploded view of all parts. Thanks again.

Any of you series 1 folks want/need an extra metal fan for your restoration or stock? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8009864281&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 This is not my auction, I just thought these were not seen everyday.

Jay, E-mail was sent. If your car is a MT, I need the inner shift boot hold down bracket, screws and the clips to attach the outer shift boot. If you have a shortened shift lever, that would be of interest. But it would have to fit the 5 speed from a '82. Thx, Bryan

Can anyone help me with a microfiche CD for a '82 280ZX? A parts book would also be helpful. I have only seen S30 CDs. If you know where I can get one or have one for sale, please PM me. Thanks.

Front overrider looking bent down is a common thing with '73s. It is different than the earlier ones with the narrower bar. Not sure if it just the way they were made or ? Your car looks great Pguy!

I wonder if you want an original color even if not the original color for your car. I have a friend who painted his '72 the '05 350Z Le Mans Sunset (kind of metallic orange). It is really beauiful on the early Z. Sorry Roger! If your not around Portland, it would be different and just flat pretty. http://www.automotive.com/2005/83/nissan/350z/photos/colors/le-mans-sunset-clearcoat-metallic.html I really like the medium blues that were close to original, but it seems to be becoming the most popular color for a repaint. They do look gorgeous with the white side stripe. http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz240zsports/index.html

If your Nissan dealer can't help you with those, give Z Therapy a call. I'd think they are still available from Nissan.

Gary, You know we have to include Vancouver residents as Oregonians. At least all those that work in Portland and are complaining about supporting our tax base.

Looks very close to a friends '58 chevy truck that he restored with the original color.

I have had to replace my tank after the car was in storage for some years. I figured it out on the highway after letting the tank level drop. It is cheap insurance rather than cleaning out the entire system. My tank won't sit half full again.

Cool idea, I'm in.

Hi Gary, I know you'd heard from me, but for the sake of the other NW'erners. I live in Gresham. My wife drives a '73 240Z, and I drive a '73 240Z. Her's is burgandy, mine is silver.

When I replaced the struts on my 240Z, Tokico specified that about 1/8" of threads should show. Mine bottomed out using the provided shims. I went to the local hardware store and bought extra spacers that fit well with clearance for the strut rod. It all worked great. If you have enough engaged threads that you feel it is solidly engaged, just go with it and be confident it is correct.

The below article is courtesy of Carl Beck and zhome.com. There was not a link directly to this article, so I hope I am not out of line pasteing (if that is a word) it here. Early and Late Style Transmission Swaps in 240-Z's Contributed By: Carl Beck, IZCC #260 The Purpose of this page is to provide some answers to typical questions, as well as some explanations related to the interchange of the two types of transmissions used in the first and second generation of Z Cars (1970-78 and 79-83). As Of 27 April. 2001 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What you need to know about your Z and the transmissions you have or plan to buy. 1. What is the Date of Manufacture of your 240Z? (see the data plate on the drivers door jam of your 240-Z) 2. Do you have a Type "A" or Type "B" transmission (or if both - which is which - see pictures below) Most Common Questions About Swapping Transmissions in the 240Z's. 1. Will a 5spd. from the 280Z or 280ZX fit in my 240Z? 2. What needs to be changed in addition to the transmission when putting a newer style 4spd. or 5spd. in my 240Z. 3. Will the newer style transmissions bolt right into the older Z Cars? 4. Are the shifters interchangeable? 5. What else needs to be changed along with the newer style transmission when installing it in the older style Z Cars? Background: Datsun used a three piece case design for the four speed transmissions installed in the Z Car from 10/69 through 08/71 (FW471A). With the introduction of the 1972 Model Year 240Z's in 08/71 Datsun introduced their redesigned four speed transmission (FW471B). The newer "B" style transmission utilizes a two piece transmission case so it is easy to tell the two apart. (see the picture below) In addition to the redesigned case, the newer transmission had a redesigned shift lever and associated shifting mechanism. This resulted in the shift lever being moved about 2.25 inches toward the front of the car. In turn, the area cut out of the transmission tunnel for the shifter to enter the passenger compartment was also re-located farther forward in the cars produced from 08/71 forward. This in turn drove the need for a redesigned center console with the area for the shift lever also moved forward (the center console for the 72+ model year 240-Z's has the ashtray located behind the shifter). Given the oversized area cut-out in the sheet-metal of the transmission tunnel, for the shift lever in the first place, it is not necessary to remove an additional 2.25 inches of sheet-metal to install the newer style transmission in the older style bodies. Something less than an inch of additional space has to to be provided. That, or the shift lever on the newer style transmission has to be bent in an "S" shape, to provide the necessary clearance. Pictured below: we have the original type "A" transmission in the foreground, lined up with the newer type "B" transmission in the background. Both transmissions are within a small fraction of an inch of each other in total length (within a 1/ 16th inch). Looking a little closer - in the picture below you can see that the centerline of the shifter on the type "A" transmission in the foreground (line #3); sits 2.25 inches behind the center line of the shifter on the type "B" transmission (line #1). Line #2 is the rear end of both the transmissions. The type "B" transmission shown in the pictures above has the Nissan Competition Shifter installed (Part #. As you can see, it is shaped in an "S" curve so that the newer style transmission can be installed in an early style Z car. The stock shift lever is more or less straight on the newer "B" style transmissions. Therefore one needs to either: a) remove additional sheet-metal from the transmission tunnel toward the front of the car, or bend the stock shift lever in an "S" curve or, c) order the Nissan Competition Parts "Shift Kit" Part number 99996-E3030 - shown installed in the picture above. Either Transmission: will direct bolt to any of the "L" series six cylinder blocks. The output spline is the same on either transmission - so any drive shaft that fits one, fits the other as far as the output spline is concerned. The shifters are not interchangeable between the type A and Type B transmissions, nor are they interchangable between the 4spd. and 5spd. When installing the newer style "B" transmissions in Z Cars built before 10/71 make sure that you have at least 1/2 inch of clearance ahead of the shift lever when it's in 1st. , 3rd and 5th gear. If the sheet-metal on the transmission tunnel interferes with the shift lever the transmission will pop out of gear, because it was not fully engaging the gear to begin with. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you are starting with a 4 spd, you don't need anything. It is a straight swap. If you are starting witn an auto like I am, you'll need quite a bit. BTW, the U joints rarely go bad on the drive shaft, there is no flexing hapening. Good Luck.