EScanlon

What about brazing it? Or even brazing a patch over the crack... E

After you've done your body work, and are FIRST starting to cover the bare metal, use an ETCHING primer. Many Epoxy Primers ARE an etching style primer, but not all. Conversely regular primer (the really old school red oxide lacquer... probably not available now), worked best if you at least did a Metal Wash on the bare metal. That could be from Ospho, POR 15's Metal Ready, or PPG's Metal Prep, but the key thing is that they all leave the metal with some "tooth", which allows the primer to adhere better. Most newer style primers use Reducer and not Lacquer Thinner. As such, you will undoubtedly need to etch the metal. Check the Epoxy you choose to make sure it etches and you should be fine. A note for your future steps: You mention only sanding the rest of the body where you don't need to do repairs, this is ok, but you may want to use a SEALER between the old paint and any new topcoats. Some of the newer paint formulations are extremely picky over what they are sprayed over and can react unfavorably with older paints. This is especially true if you're dealing with any paint that may have been "waxed" with any of the "Wax Once and Never Again" poly coatings being promoted as permanent. The use of a Sealer will give you a uniform color base over which you can spray a nice uniform color coat and not have to worry about any shadows / uneven color. FWIW E

Yes. It could also be that it has loosened, but is still there. It's tricky to get your hand back there, and even trickier to try to get a screwdriver on to it to tighten it, but it isn't impossible. Otherwise, you have to remove the speedometer from the dash. E

Feel free to report any post where you feel you are being insulted. Realize that we may not agree. Do remember that it is impossible for us to moderate the thread or forum to your specific likes as it seems that you have been the primary instigator in some of these exchanges. In some cases it is apparent that you choose to see an "insult" when someone disagrees with you. That is your choice to make and deal with accordingly, but understand that we're not prepared to shield you from your decisions. You brought up the concept of a "Turdymobile", which has offended several members. Any responses to that concept that you find objectionable are of your own decision making, you opened the door to them by the concept you proposed. That you choose to mistreat your vehicle is again, your choice. Don't expect others to agree with your choices. Your concept of fairness/justness is not what we moderate by. If you insult, deride, and otherwise annoy the other members, as you have been doing, then expect to have it handed back. If you do not like what you are receiving, then stop shelling it out to others. We won't allow them to insult you directly, nor allow you to do it to them either. You should also be aware that the "inuendo" type of insult is pretty much recognizable as an insult and as such will be dealt with as a direct insult. You have insisted on pushing your enthrallment with the uniqueness of your vehicle. Allow others to choose to disagree. From the posts here and in other threads it has annoyed many members. The replies on this thread speak volumes, and it isn't the majority that seems to be in error. Your vehicle is special to you, accept that others may not be enthralled and may even be appalled at what you have. That is their right. You're very upfront with pointing out what you feel "destroys" the "sexy lines" of the Z, to the point of insulting others and then demanding that they NOT insult you. Your car is modified, yet you are extremely critical of other people's modifications, to the tune of repeating it ad nauseum. This site is primarily for the Classic Z that has not been as modified as yours is. While we can and do share the love of Z's with those that have changed / modified / modernized their Z as yours is, you won't find the kind of acceptance that you demand, and especially when you demand, cajole and otherwise annoy everyone here. Hybrid-Z may be a better forum for you. There you will find others that have also done a V8 transplant and love to discuss it. You should be aware though, that they are even more strict about what they do and don't allow to be posted. It may be that you have already been there and that is why you are here. If you feel that you can no longer participate in this thread or forum without continuing to insult, denigrate, deride and otherwise annoy the other members, then please desist from reading and contributing anything further to it. If on the other hand you choose to continue to participate; if necessary-- agree to disagree, avoid argumentative posts and please abide by the forum rules. E Scanlon Moderator

Bryan; Did you ever get a WRITTEN agreement with the shop doing the work, specifying what they would/would not do? While a verbal agreement is more difficult to enforce, some terms are defineable such that a "paint job" is understood to mean ALL of the exterior of a vehicle and not just what's visible from a bird's eye view. Aside from that, it sounds as though the paint guy was rushing your job and got careless. Regardless of the expense (and it's on him) he needs to make the job right... even if it means sanding to Primer/Sealer and re-shooting color and clear. Otherwise, take it to a different shop, pay to have it done properly and then sue the first shop for the cost of rectifying their mistake. Sorry to hear of the problems. E

Sorry it's kind of late, but come to Blue Lake tomorrow 8-12-12 for the Blue Lake Datsun/Nissan meet. E

Folks: Let's keep it civil. While a certain amount of vitriolic riposting is common in these discussions let's keep away from direct insults and attacks. References to ignore lists are requests to have the post deleted as it's equivalent to telling the individual that they're not allowed to interject or participate. Requests to "prove" something or quoting disdain or arrogance by other members also constitutes the beginnings of a flame war. Flame wars are not allowed. For whatever it's worth, this discussion has been very refreshing and interesting... at worst, people can agree to disagree. FWIW E

An Agreed Value insurance policy is only a contract between you and the insurance company whereby the insurance company will generally cover you for the amount you request without further documentation as long as you continue to pay the premiums they quote. You could insure a turd for a million dollars and if the insurance company determines the risk involved as being acceptable, they'll issue the policy, you pay the premiums and VOILA you have a "million dollar turd". http://www.hagerty.com/classic-car-articles-resources/Ask-Hagerty-Questions/Ask-Hagerty/Insuring/QA/Whats-the-difference-between-Agreed-Value-and-Stated-Value-coverage FYI E

I've used the Roloc's myself, but one word of caution, they CAN damage aluminum. They are abrasive, and while it does take a bit of doing to do a lot of damage, on aluminum sometimes a bit is too much. (Door/Sill Aluminum kick plates is where I used the white.) But if you're careful, they are REALLY fast. They also use the same adapter for the Scotchpad roloc discs. E

"Switched" refers to it being turned on / off by the ignition switch, whether directly or by a relay is secondary. (Conversely, "non-switched" means CONTINUOUS power, i.e. it's ON as long as the battery is connected to the car's harness.) Typically, it's the current load to be controlled that will determine if it should be run through a relay circuit or if it can be run through the ignition switch. Higher CURRENT circuits are best through a relay. (So are High Voltage circuits, but we're talking about a 12v Car.) The 240 Z's headlight circuit is a good example of an item that is NOT on a "switched" circuit (controlled by the ignition switch) that is safer and better through a Relay circuit instead of part of the car's wiring. Other examples of Non-Switched are Hazard Lights and Brake Lights, the Cigar Lighter and the Dome lamp. The Starter is another good example, but now it is an item that IS "switched" AND on a relay, although it's called a starter solenoid. Here you have the rest of the car's circuits which, without the ignition switch being toggled to the ON position, would not be functional; i.e. the radio, turn-signals, gauges, and the distributor/coil etc. Now, you can check to see if it's a switched source simply by putting a light on it and seeing if you have to have the key on or not for the light to turn on. Key OFF and NO light / Key ON and YES light = Switched Key OFF and YES light / Key ON and YES light. = Non-Switched. If your ignition switch is starting to go bad, and you now have intermittent electrical contact at it's connections, don't hesitate to replace it. An intermittent electrical source can quickly fry any component attached to it, regardless of whether it's on a direct or relay circuit. Simplistically, not so much because of a voltage drop, but due to the changes in the current supplied. You're literally turning it on and off repeatedly. I gave you more of an explanation so you can determine by what you are connecting, whether you should use relays or not. (and also future readers of this post) HTH E

Doesn't the valve cover on a 240 have a groove for an o-ring? E

That second roller was an OPTION at the factory, but it actually is very helpful when the window is halfway up. The majority of vehicles were never fitted with the second roller, but those who have installed it report less window rattle when the window is just open to full open. As far as your window problem, your window sash weatherstripping may be part of the problem. From the picture you post, it looks as though it's shrunken to the point where it isn't keeping the window glass in it's groove. The picture shows it already OUT of the groove. The other possibility is that you need to raise the front edge of the glass just a tad so that the rear edge of the pane will rest within the rear groove. FWIW E

Part of that "plumping up" is the proper use of the wires and seam tubes to pull down through the foam and accent the seam indent. Too much foam can actually be detrimental to the cushioning effect of the seat and in turn stress the cover into premature failure from stretching the material. FWIW E

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46732 This one? With all the quirky things going on, it probably fell between other posts .... E

If you give the compressor time to catch up, you should be OK running a sandblaster. Granted, you won't be running it for LONG periods of time, but you can get it done. One suggestion, if the drain valve for the tank is at the bottom of it, you may want to raise it a few inches to make it easier to reach in and drain it. Alternatively, there are "auto" drain valves you could install, but without clearance you won't be able to install it easily. FWIW E

Actually, you're spot on (except for the knobs). That is when you're comparing car stereo units. In fact, I don't know of a repair shop that wouldn't tell you that the repairs... ANY amount, would be more than the radio's worth. The thing is, that when you're restoring a vehicle to factory new OEM condition, you really don't have much choice. Right now you can't give an engine's air pump away... you'd be laughed at. But to a true blue restoration, i.e. one with few if any modifications, that air pump is critical, without it you have an engine modification. Granted many judging bodies have allowances due to many of these items being so hard to source. E

As they say on the Roadster site... Pictures or it didn't happen. What year Roadster do you have? E

Carl's post is spot on. Once you are "almost" finished, and it's those last few details... the CORRECT OEM radio, not just an OEM radio, can make the difference in a restoration that you are confident of at a Concours show. At that point, what's a few extra bucks? That's part of the reason why a true RESTORATION is not in the same league as a REFRESHING. If it isn't back to the ORIGINAL status as it left the factory... it's modified. While a car may be modified very nicely, even to the same level of attention as a restoration, the fact is.... it's MODIFIED and can no longer compete in the stock classes. Granted different judges will allow certain modifications, but in a sanctioned event such as ISCA, there are levels of modifications/changes that are permitted before the car is changed in class. I've worked with the judges at the Portland Roadster Show for the last 4 years, and there are specific items that will immediately change the class you can compete in... to the chagrin of those who are unaware of what is and what isn't allowed. Then you have those vehicles that have had enough modifications in the right areas done to them that they can no longer compete at all. They've gone from the "Stock" end of the scale to the other end "Radical", and because they tried to maintain a "classical" look... they're not modified enough to compete against those who seek the Radical trophy, and they're too modified to compete against the Stock. Here are some examples, you guys decide if they're radical, custom or stock. Note the Headlight Sugar Scoops! Also check out this modification done by a Texan Z users to show off to his Japanese buddies. Note his shaved bumper, engine transplant, breather through the hood, etc. Is it a Z or not? He calls it a CorZette. All of them are different, but all are liked by their owners. Putting them down because you don't like them... well, that's childish. FWIW E

If they are true REAL leather and not the leatherette material being sold as real leather, that's a great price. However, the leatherette material I'm referring to IS leather... but only about 1/32" thick if that, bonded to another material. True leather re-covers where the material is ALL leather, I think would be much more expensive than their asking price. I haven't any experience with either one of those re-covers, but keep in mind that new foam, and good condition springs (whether rubber strap or steel spring) as well as knowing how to use the wires that enhance the fit are all critical to doing a proper re-cover. I've re-covered seats that were supposedly "professionally" recovered and gotten results that were more to the owner's liking. FWIW E

Except that even under that rule, the poster would complain about being unduly harassed by the moderators, would then get his friends to post comments supporting his position, sign on with a different log on (against the rules), and finally would post a donation to the club as a bribe to avoid being "hazzled" and would then continue doing what he was doing. It has happened, and the whining still continues. So much so that they feel and act untouchable... which apparently they are. The posts you're referrring to is just a new user who is happy to have found this site. The prior user on this thread is a signature line phisher link. His thread will be on topic enough to obfuscate his true intent, a link to his site via this sites popularity thereby boosting his rating. Kind of like posting links to sales on an auction site to boost the number of views and therefore skew the actual activity or simply to help advertise the item. The difficulty is in being on the forum often enough to determine which of those posts are trash and which aren't. Which users are Trolls and which are true new members just needing guidance. Some new users are convinced that it is the rest of the club that needs to adjust to them and not them adjusting to the club. When a user who has annoyed enough of the older members finally gets banned, there is usually a general feeling of "Good Riddance!" or :beer: for the . FWIW E

Ahhh.... the Ignore List at work. Works great!

The bumpers prove to be more decoration that protection. So it might be that the PPO somehow bent/damaged the bumpers or the car came to him that way and it was decided that the car looked better without than with pretzel style bumpers. 260 bumpers in the same basic style as the 240's are a bit bigger and thicker, but they may be as rare or rarer to find than the 240's. The 280 bumpers will require the shock absorbers and the mounting systerm as well as the finishing rubber ends etc. Money being a strong consideration, your only solution may be the boneyard and finding something from another older car. If you did have some leeway with money, you might check some of the restoration/customization sites such as Chev's of the 40's, or the like, to see what they have. At the Roadster Show we see hundreds of cars with customized bumpers as well as shaved or incorporated bumper schemes. However, some of the treatments are outrageously expensive. E

And Bennie Hill and the crew that comprised the Monty Python show! There are others for other generations, Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy, the 3 Stooges, Marx Brothers, Charlie Chaplin, the original Sat. Night Live crew.... Good humorists help soothe the chafing of dealing with AH's in every day life. As far as it answering the request for information: I'll use Alec Baldwin's response in the Capital One TV commercial referencing whether he could play games on the phone while on the runway.... no, no.... not on the runway.... Glad you guys enjoyed it. E

If you don't like Mud Flaps.... well Ignore this post. Otherwise, enjoy! E

This might be a solution for some.... E