EScanlon

From my perspective on the photos you posted, I don't see anydetail of the screw that goes up into the thin part of the base. The typical mirror mount uses 2 screws or bolt / nuts to secure to the panel. Additionally the inside of the panel has at least one reinforcement put there at the factory, and sometimes a second reinforcing plate when the mirror gets mounted. That thin section screw is the one that's allowing the side to side movement of the base. It's either bottoming out, if it is a screw, or the nut does not press down due to lack of being tightened, or because the cone of the bracket does not permit the nut to press onto the metal. You can fix the base with some JB Weld. You can either re-mold the missing part with the JB Weld, or see if you can glue the pieces together. Scuff the INSIDE of the plastic so that the JB will adhere properly, and if possible use some thin mesh, such as bug screen or screen mesh to reinforce the JB. It is a bit tricky, but you CAN do it. Enrique

And the nomination for the best Classic Z Car Golden Rule proclamation goes to..... I agree, and think this is probably the BEST way to paraphrase the prior discussion. Enrique

Gary; You're obviously better informed than I regarding the specifics on this law. I erred by using the basic rule of thumb given to me in my college days. The example I used was about a car show and that throws another level onto it. Since the specifics of the law address those items occurring in a PUBLIC place, I can see why the photographer has no limitations as to what he can take pictures of, and use (with some restrictions). Many car shows, from what I have seen being involved both as a participant and MC, have been organized such that they can and do restrict PUBLIC access. I'm not referring to whether people have to pay to get in or not, I'm referring to shows that specify Marque, Model, or Year of production. As such, the event from what I recall from college, can no longer be called a PUBLIC event. Maybe, I'm completely wrong, that's why my first line was admitting that I'm not a lawyer. Thanks for expanding on my post. Am I wrong regarding what I posted above? Enrique

Hey, if you guys insist on taking offense at each other, do it off site! This is a perfect example of two nations having a common language yet separated by it's colloquialisms. Where you Carl, wrote in the generic application, to a person from England, who is in the discussion with you, your comments would be perceived as directed at them. Alan, you jumped the gun and forgot that you cannot assume a label is directed at you SPECIFICALLY. Carl, your last sentence is what can incites a large flame war. You lost a perfect opportunity to "keep your mouth shut!" as we say in sales. Now hopefully we don't need to see a trillion posts on either side defending an obviously undefensible position. Want to flame someone, FLAME ME! Your flames are welcome!!! Enrique

Yeah right. Try telling that to any lawyer / barrister ANYWHERE in the world. Although laws may be "specific", it is the INTERPRETATION of that law and it's applied societal response that is the crux of ANY lawyer's argument. Doubts? How is it that O.J. Simpson was found liable for a CIVIL suit over the death of Nicole, yet was not convicted of her murder. Meaning, if the evidence did not support a guilty verdict, how could he be the one to tag for compensatory damages? That something is or isn't legal is based on the presentation and concurring opinion of the ruling body. Enrique

Ok folks, I'm not a lawyer, but it seems to me that we are trying to "split" a legal definition here. First of all, let's address what would be considered "ownership". If as Corgan says: "So what if I saw your car at a car show... took a picture and posted that on my web page along with a bunch of other pictures I've taken... Lets say I'm not trying to profit off of anything... I just have a gallery of Z's that I like and wanted to save the pictures of to use as reference on say a restoration...." (bold emphasis mine) At this point, if at the show there was a limitation as to pictures, i.e. a sign posting that no cameras are allowed, then you have "stolen" the photograph. Any use you put to that photograph is essentially illegal. However, at most car shows, neither the promoter nor the owners place restrictions, therefore you ARE allowed to take pictures FOR YOUR USE AND ENJOYMENT. However, any time I've seen someone taking pictures for use OTHER THAN SELF-USE AND ENJOYMENT, typically, not always, there is a requirement by the promoter/organizer to at least advise them of their intent in order to receive tacit or formal approval. Now, taking into considerations Corgan's second half of the post: "So what if I saw your car at a car show... took a picture and posted that on my web page along with a bunch of other pictures I've taken... "(bold emphasis mine) At this point, you have violated the agreement by which you took the pictures. Posting on YOUR home computer is fine, posting on the INTERNET is considered a PUBLIC display. That is no longer a personal use / enjoyment case. Now, you've disseminated the photograph. Unless they are pictures of items / people for which you have ascertained and received permission to post in a public forum (called a photo release), you cannot post them. Now, addressing a picture obtained off the internet that you in turn put on your page. That is where it gets really foggy, but the basic process applies. That the internet allows wanton proliferation of permissionless copying and dissemination is part of the crux that the Music Industry is addressing. Anyway you want to address it, it boils down to this, unless you have permission of the subject, whether written or by ownership, you cannot post, nor RE-post a picture. Whether your intent is to profit or not is not the issue. The issue is ownership that's what a copyright allows you to do. Since you created something you are allowed to control it's dissemination. By STATING that it is copyrighted, implies that others may NOT take a copy of it without obtaining permission and declaring for what purpose they will be using it. Again, this is difficult to enact, as most people just right click and go on. However, in the strictly legal sense, they've violated the copyright of the owner. I can see that I took too long in my reply and others have already responded with much of the same as I had to say. Enrique

As far as I know, from the pictures I've seen here on the forum, they are the same. As far as finding new, they sometimes show up on e-Bay for about $135 US each, but in NEW condition. I'm sure that you can find it cheaper, used, but the condition of it may be doubtful. The two major problems that this piece had is that the chrome would eventually separate from the plastic base, and would then begin peeling around the edges. The other was that many if not most, owners wouldd install an aftermarket radio and would then modify the bottom of the HCP by cutting or grinding away the bottom and sides of the radio cut out. By the way, the HCP did not change configuration until the late 72 (mfg year 1973 in the US) production run. Then they maintained the look but now had a clear and backlit plate for the labels on the controls. They will interchange, with only a slight change in your installation procedure. Good Luck Enrique

By the time you buy, bend and try to install those floor pans in STAINLESS, I think you'll have more money into it than if you just bought the pans from ZeddFindings. Also, why go to stainless? For the sake of saying it's stainless? What you gain in strength of the sheet, you're going to lose in trying to attach it to the car. Then, you mention you don't have a welder, so how do you plan to weld STAINLESS to regular CARBON steel? Even though it is a 1.5' gash, you can usually procure a 6" wide and 2' long piece of metal, bend it and have it welded onto the pan much easier than removing the old, grinding it clean, and then welding a new pan in. As far as the POR, although it will reinforce an otherwise rusted floor, even with some pinholes, or even small cracks, if you use the Power Mesh, it definitely is not a replacement or cure-all for a long gash as you mention. If you don't use the power mesh, then it's just paint. 2¢ Enrique

Ken That's a 73 Heater Control Panel. It is the only year that it was made with backlighting. The next year, the 260 came out with a different HCP and Dash if I recall corectly. Enrique

Don't recall another bolt there, but do a couple of things. Look at the cup that holds the seat belt roll into the body from below. If there is a bolt hole, it will let you know where it is. Then again, it might be a bolt hole going in from the outside. The other is pull out the belt as far as possible, and then look inside the cup. If there is one in there, you might have to use 1/4" ratchet or a nut driver. Good Luck Enrique

I race R/C Boats (Nitro) and although I am a completely RANK amateur, I have learned that the different props one can use (2 and more blades) are usually graded based on the diameter and the pitch AND the amount of "wake turbulence" that a given prop will have at a certain RPM. That's part of the reason why a more powerful engine won't necessarily go to a bigger prop, but rather a smaller with more pitch, because that allows the motor to max out the RPM curve. Then you get into the curves of the blades from up by the shaft to the outer edge AND the curve from the leading edge (the edge that is actually biting into the medium) to the trailing edge. In most automobiles, the blades are usually very plain even flat, the number of blades will not necessarily add to the volume of air being moved, unless the pitch is the same on both. The higher number fan will require more torque due to the larger volume going through. However, if you reduce the pitch when increasing the number of blades, you actually move the same volume of air but with less torque. You also usually pick up the advantage of having less wind noise. In a car, when it is moving you actually eventually generate a pillow of air in front of your car. Air Dams attempt to nudge this pillow off to the side so that it won't generate uplift on the front of the car. They also help in directing air to the radiator core. The fan isn't so much to PULL air through the radiator when at speed, but rather to generate a lesser pressure area BEHIND the radiator than in front of it. That way the speed of your car will actually force the air through the radiator. At idle is the only time that you would really notice the difference in it's cooling ability. At higher speeds, the fan needs to create enough of a pressure differential so that there isn't a "backlog" of air trying to go through the radiator. That backlog is nothing more than the development of another "pillow" of air. The "exhaust" or escape of air that has travelled through the radiator out of the engine compartment is also an item that can cause overheating. Usually however, the bottom of the engine compartment is open to the environment and this is not an issue. If you were to cover the bottom of your engine area with a pan or a "splash pan" you might see a marked increase in the temperature of your engine. 2¢ Enrique

Not hoping to fuel the flames of a war, as I hope this is NOT one. I trust that we can have an intelligent discussion (NOT an argument) over this. I searched for the Material Safety Data Sheet required by the Federal Government (U.S.A.). This information is also on the DOD Hazardous Material Information sheet. Here's the URL for the sheet on Armor All Protectant: http://msds.pdc.cornell.edu/msds/MSDSDOD/A119/M59075.htm#Section2 If you look at the second ingredient listed: SILICONE EMULSION, you can then do a search on SILICONE EMULSION if you need further clarification as to what it entails. In my experience working with various solvents, cleaners, and other materials as a Hazardous Material Compliance Monitor for the Air Force, the MSDS's do not require a FORMULA to be given, but a generic classification of the main ingredient within that part of the compound below which it is proprietary to list content. Fancy gobbleydigoop to say that as long as you call out the major component by use of their classification tables you can then not give out your formula. SILICONE is the key word to denote that the product / component is formulated WITH and PRIMARILY silicone. This is the URL for a complete listing of Armor All DOD reports http://msds.pdc.cornell.edu/msdsdoddata.asp Here's the link I used to find MSDS's on-line. http://www.ilpi.com/msds/ I hope this helps to clarify whether or not Armor All contains Silicone or not. Enrique

ouch! As Far As I Know, each type is specific to it's compressor, In Other Words you can't interchange them. The High Volume Low Pressure gun counts on a LOT of air moving through the gun, into which the paint is metered into the air stream. I'm not sure on how the paint is atomized, but it is dependent on the VOLUME of air. A Low Volume High Pressure depends on the pressure behind the nozzle to venturi the paint out and to both propel and direct the shape of the fanned spray. Below a certain pressure, the gun will "spit" and really give you a bad case of "orange-peel" that will look more like "cantaloupe peel". The air source for an HVLP gun is basically a FAN that moves a LOT of air. The compressor for an LVHP is a standard air compressor. If I have any of this wrong, please post a correction. Enrique

AFAIK each type is specific to it's compressor, IOW you can't interchange them. Enrique

We also do that in the Mid-West and I've seen it once or twice here in the Pacific NW. However, instead of flashing the brights, the action is to turn your Headlights OFF, ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON while sounding out the words while the action is going on. Simply put, off for the amount of time it takes you to SAY off, and again for the word ON. A trucker at a rest stop told me that one, and maybe he was just feeding a young turkey like me a line of cockamanie BS, but I HAVE seen it being done, and always in response to a "trap" up ahead on the road, on MY side of the road. Enrique

The indents are for placement of the various pieces in the OEM tool kit. You have a space for the Lug Wrench, the Jack, the Chocks and the Tool Kit bag. Over these a pair of plastic "doors" would attach to the screw hole with rubber you can see at the top of your picture. Sometime later, when the production completely used up the Series I bodies, the tool compartments migrated to the deck area. 2¢ Enrique

Andrew: Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check my book and see what I find. If I do need you to scan it I'll post back. Alan: Great info mate! I'm going to give my contact in Canada a holler and see what I can find. Enrique

Actually, that the US cars did NOT have the Passing Light feature is not surprising. In the 60's and well into the 70's, American cars had the high beam switch on the floor, where the Z's have the Foot Support. While the majority of cars sold were Automatic, there were a few sold with manual transmissions. But it wasn't until the gas crunch of the 70's that people started looking at Manual Transmissions as more efficient than their Automatic contender. As a result, the LEFT foot (in the US) was not used (except for those brave individuals who claimed that braking with the left foot was "faster reaction" than with the right), EXCEPT for the High/Low Beam switch. The location of the switch, probably goes back to when we still had a starter button that had to be pushed to actuate the starter motor. Remember in those days, the size of the switches to handle that much voltage was huge in contrast to what was used later. Both the starter and the headlight switches were on the left hand side of the car, until some manufacturers relocated the starter switch to the dash, and eventually the keyed ignition lock. The headlight switch was not addressed until much later, even though many vehicles in those days were Manual transmission. Unfortunately, this is the same group of people that had a difficult time understanding the Hand Throttle on the console. Making such a "radical" change as moving the switch to the turn signal stalk was controversial. There were many stories written up in car magazine's of the day with folks complaining about it. Those vehicles that DID have the Passing Light feature, no doubt further confused their owners into believing they had to continually hold the switch in order to use their high beams. So, no doubt Datsun decided to save a couple of bucks and omitted that feature. In the aftermath of the gas crunch of the 70's, many manufacturers imported vehicles from their own marque from Europe. In Europe as mentioned before, in many countries, it is a requirement that you must flash your headlights as you overtake a vehicle. Rather than change the wiring to put a floor switch on, it was introduced to the American public. Nowdays, I would be hard pressed to find ANY US made vehicle with the old foot switch. Unfortunately, the American public still hasn't caught on to the "language" of the Passing Light. To the majority of Americans, the high beams are only to illuminate long stretches of back roads, or to frantically signal some fool in front of you that he has done something idiotic. If you DO look around, you will note that there is a systematic and logical use of the high beam by those people that have gleamed an understanding of the "language". Tractor trailer drivers use it to advise another trucker that the rear end of the trailer he's towing has cleared the vehicle who was being overtaken. A flash of high beam headlights also warns people on side streets that you are approaching the intersection and are moving fast enough that they shouldn't enter the intersection. A quick double flash when you approach a slower moving vehicle from behind, alerts the driver of your request that he move over to another lane rather than block the "higher" speed lane. These are just some of the ones that I've observed over the years, but I'm sure that our European community members can divulge many more. 2¢ Enrique

HAHAHAHA! About as confident as the man who prayed every day at church, asking God to let him win the lottery. Seems he went there for years, until one day he hears: "I'll grant you your wish my son, if you will grant me one of mine." Abashed and awe-struck he exclaims: "Anything Lord, as long as it is within my ability to do so!!!" To which he hears: "Meet me half way! Buy a Ticket!" Alan you know how hard it will be. I'm just going to attack it again from a different angle. Enrique

Thanks Alan, that clears that up. So we are still looking for someone with the "Series II" console with an OEM Fog Lamp Switch installed by either the Factory or a Dealer. Otherwise, the location below the "Z" Plate is not only cut in the dimension it would require, but it is congruent with the established location in the "Series I" console. I'm going to have to see about getting those Part numbers checked for availability and price. Enrique

EXCELLENT!! This is exactly the type of information I was hoping to garner. Now, I can start zeroing in on the circuitry. Andrew, do you have the wiring diagram for your specific car? By that I mean a 72 UK HS30 .... If so, any chance you could scan and send? I'm sure that with that and a little creative effort, I might be able to design and make an "add-in" wire loom. Alan, I will see what I can do with the diagram you sent. I'll have to correlate a known english text one with the one you posted to determine what / where the differences are. Thank you for the post. Enrique

Of the 5-6 of the Z's that I've recently worked on, there was no Passing Light Feature. The only thing available was the High/Low Function when the Headlights are on. When the Light Switch is on the "Park" position, it does NOT light the Headlamps. The Passing Light Feature, to clarify for those who may not know what it means, (and those that DO know, can correct / clarify .) is a switch that permits turning ON the HIGH Beam Light without having had the headlamps already lit, nor any part of the lighting circuit. This is usually on a Momentary Close switch as opposed to the Double Pole Single Throw switch that the standard High/Low beam uses. It seems that Datsun used BOTH switches to make this work. That implies that the Turn Signal Stalk is hollow and that the rubber end piece has a hole in it to accept the MC switch. Unless the whole stalk pushes IN to actuate a switch on the column. In some vehicles, such as my Acura or my wife's Subaru, and since the early 90's on many US vehicles, the H/L Switch performs BOTH functions. Canadian cars, with their requirement of Daytime Running Lights, may or may not be equipped with the same system. A very interesting discussion this is turning into. Enrique

I'd forgotten about the black bag and the hated "must move so many inches" before it will cycle through to park. Good catch Carl. Thanks! Enrique

Actually, that panel IS in Alan's Car. I'll allow him to clear up the mystery, but I would bet that he placed the switches in OEM order, and used that specific panel simply because of the scarcity of the other one. So, Alan, if I goofed in posting that picture, or in sticking you with ownershuip.....oops! My apologies. Enrique

GRRRRRRR!!!!!!! :mad: I dibbsed the first available switch a YEAR ago!@@!!#!@ Actually, have you heard of some parts that are made from Unobtaniuum? Well this part is made of Ultra Pure Refined No-Existiuum! Enrique